Don_P
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# Posted: 3 Aug 2015 21:29
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I've attached a pic of a door buck from a spring house, this is pretty typical of old log construction around here. This is essentially what toyota is suggesting, in this case the pegs are driven into each log course. As the corners of these cabins settled the door bucks did not allow settlement in that area. The cabins end up with a hump at each opening and lower corners.
Another way is to insert blocks in the gap between rows and slot the bucks into the log ends at the openings, or slot for the nails... allowing the logs to settle as they shrink, the blocks preserve the gap, which will grow narrower at the corners than at the blocked openings but it will be closer than the rigid connection because it does allow for log shrinkage settlement. The top of the buck is left several inches short of the top of the rough opening and trim is designed to cover the gap and allow the logs to settle
The bucks can be slotted for nails with a washer under their head, or they can have angle iron set in a dado so that the leg of the angle slides into a groove cut in the log ends. I like that approach because it really holds the logs in line but allows them to slide down freely. You can also nail a 2x2 to the log side of the buck and cut a groove in the logs to slide down that 2x2.
I have chinked old cabins with mortar, be careful to detail it so that those shed water rather than becoming water catching troughs that promote rot. I've also used synthetic chinking, permachink, etc.
I've never done it but something to think about, the old timers didn't use any portland, their chinks were often clay or lime based. Lime renders were also used in the old european timber frames. Lime pulls moisture, acts more as a preservative, "heals", and slowly turns back to limestone as it absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Portland often accelerates rot in contact with wood.
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