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Bzzzzzt
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2016 23:18
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I heat my 344 square feet with a wood stove which is situated in the original portion of the cabin. When we put on the addition I was forced to put the floor about 8 inches lower than the older part due to the roof and the placement of the triple wall chimney. So the part with the wood stove holds all the heat and the rest of the cabin gets cold. I have a fan set up so that it blows hot air into the bedroom but the bathroom is just a problem.
So, I devised a plan to put in some ductwork and spread the heat. I put a boot above the stove and ran duct into the other rooms. I installed a 6" duct booster fan thinking it would move the air but didnt notice that it was only designed to move 240cfm and that's not enough movement to actually do any good.
Short of installing a whole HVAC system just to move air around, does anyone know of a fan that I could just hook up to this 6" duct that would actually move 750cfm or more?
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littlesalmon4
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2016 11:57
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They ar
e not cheap but if you go to 8" or 10" there are a bunch of fans available that are used for hydroponics with that type of CFM.
You could try one of these. Again they are not cheap but it may be a place to start
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vortex-8-S-Line-728-CFM-Inline-Exhaust-Blower-Power-Fan-Atmosp here-Ducting-Vent-/121460965993?hash=item1c47a34269:g:AEAAAOSwcu5UPbwF
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littlesalmon4
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2016 11:58
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Here is a 6" that is 400cfm. A little better price as well.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-6-Inch-Inline-Hydroponic-Duct-Fan-Exhaust-Blower-/30094591 0058?hash=item4611c6292a:m:mzc3V6j4fyRmNmvQ4MBGdNQ
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2016 12:46
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It's one thing to push heat into a room but are you extracting the cold air and returning it to the warming area ? If you over do the CFM's pushing the heat in, you'll wind up cooling the warm air and if there is nowhere got the existing cold air to go then you have an air-lock situation.
I'd suggest looking at installing a cold air return fan @ ground level using 50% of the CFM rating that you have on the "pusher" side allowing for a slower return while keeping a positive pressure moving in.
Computer Type box fans (12vdc) come in 3" - 12" sizes and are very cheap, some can do up to 300CFM quietly and far less intrusively than those duct boosters (man they can get really noisy).
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bobrok
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2016 13:28
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I made a floor to ceiling duct using a carpet tube and a computer fan. I experimented with installing the fan both at the top and at the bottom of the tube. Airflow was minimal, not nearly enough to make a difference in moving heat downward (8' ceilings).
I tried a duct fan, again with little success. I mounted the fan on a camera tripod and tried various angles and positions. Not happy.
One thing about all of these is that in a small cabin it just takes up too much room.
I finally gave up the experiment and bought a ceiling fan. Best decision.
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Haltzy
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2016 14:50
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12V Glycol floor heat system utilizing the woodstove as the heat source. That is what i'm putting in my cabin. Hopefully it works as well as I hope.
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Bzzzzzt
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2016 20:13
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Return wouldn't be a problem as it's all open. I just need to boost the air flow I think. The duct booster fan is pretty quiet but just doesn't move much air.
Thanks for all he ideas.
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Julie2Oregon
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2016 17:37
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Yeah, I'm with bobrok. Ceiling fan. I intend to install one.
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Topper
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2016 18:00 - Edited by: Topper
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Quoting: Julie2Oregon Yeah, I'm with bobrok. Ceiling fan. I intend to install one.
My in-town two room cabin has a ceiling fan in each room.
The workshop has one too.
a 16x18 one room "Honda powered" cabin with cathedral ceiling had one as well. When I put on an addition, almost doubling it's size, had no problem heating the addition with a gravity type oil heater.
Just saying a 344 sq. ft. one room shouldn't be difficult to heat??? Do you have cathedral ceiling? Enough insulation/weatherstripping???
Re-read your post - it is a two room now. Still...?
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Bzzzzzt
Member
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2016 20:56
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344 square foot THREE room. The main room stays warm, the bedroom (which is in the addition) is difficult to get the heat into but does warm up to 75° usually and the bathroom (also in the addition) is almost impossible to get that heat into. Each room has a fan, except the bathroom. The problem, as I stated in the original post, is the height difference between the main part and the addition. I simply need to move the air around from the hot area to the cold areas.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2016 02:15 - Edited by: skootamattaschmidty
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We closed in the back of our cabin which was initially a screened in room. We put our shower and a vanity back there. It stayed very cold in the winter where the rest of the cabin was warm. I did some research and saw heatsticks which may have been originally mentioned on this site. I did further research on heat sticks and ended up cutting a hole in the wall to the back near the ceiling and installed a heat stick in the back room using abs pipe and a 4" computer fan. The heat stick draws warm air from off the ceiling and through the vent I cut down to the floor where it recirculates the air. It made a huge difference in the back room and you can feel the warm air coming through the vent in the wall.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2016 02:27
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Here is the link to the heat sticks. http://www.heatstick.com/_Heat%20StkBluBox.htm
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Topper
Member
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2016 03:09
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Quoting: Bzzzzzt When we put on the addition I was forced to put the floor about 8 inches lower than the older part
Quoting: Bzzzzzt The problem, as I stated in the original post, is the height difference between the main part and the addition
Whenever I've put an addition onto a cabin, the addition is 8 inches lower than the main cabin -- the width of the original cabin's floor joists.
The addition, to the 16x18 cabin added two extra rooms, plus a walk-in closet for a total of 504 square feet.
Yes, colder air at floor level will flow to the lower elevation.
However, we routinely have temperatures in the 40 to 50 below zero Fahrenheit range with occasional 60 below with no problem.
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Bzzzzzt
Member
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2016 09:58
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That looks interesting and is sort of what I already installed with the ductwork. Thanks for the idea.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2016 13:01
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I made my heatsticks using a small wooden box where I put the computer fan inside and then the abs pipe. I put a little switch on the outside of the box to turn them off and on. They run directly off my 12 volt system and use little energy. The main thing I think was cutting a hole about 18"x8" at the top of the wall at the back of the cabin near the ceiling which allowed heat into the back room. You can trim the hole off nicely with a vent cover etc.
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neckless
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2016 17:32
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if u move the cold air the warm will fill in...cold air is a lot easier to move... a porch attached to a mobile home, woodstove.... fan in back bedroom on floor, almost makes the trailer feel evenly heated...
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