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CootersShabin
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 12:25
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Has anyone used regular planks for floor rather than something with a machined Tongue and Groove. I really like that I can get wider rough sawn boards (quite a bit cheaper too) if I skip the T & G, but I wonder how well it will hold up (cupping, gaps etc.). I'm looking at regular White, Knotty Pine and plan to leave it unfinished for a couple years and then finish it (much like my Cabin Log, I still haven't finished the inside, I don't want to loose that smell). Regards, Cooter
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 13:28 - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Any differences between the two in terms of drying? I imagine most flooring goes through a fairly strict drying process.
How about biscuit joinery? Would that be a compromise? Too visible? Fail from shrinkage?
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 14:20
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You could also do the T & G yourself if you are getting rough yourself. Just need a router table and the bits. It's easy to make, then you could even do a little bevel on the edge and it would look like hardwood floors.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 23 Aug 2016 15:04
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To reduce cupping on wide boards run 3/8" deep kerfs on the backside every 1-1/2 inches or so.
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CootersShabin
Member
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# Posted: 24 Aug 2016 12:12
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I don't think I want to do any modifications to the boards. Instead I think I'm going to make a judgement on install gap based on moisture content and hope for the best. So, anyone here lay square plank boards (no tongue and groove or shiplap)? Curious to hear your opinions.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 24 Aug 2016 13:32
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These are square edged white ash boards that were drilled, screwed , and plugged . Random widths 12 ' 10 ' 8 ' and 6 .
make sure your wood is very dry before you start.. they still cupped a bit after installed but the sander took care of that .
I found it worked best with short boards 4 ft. or less . Its very hard to get the edges strait on longer boards and you cant bend a 12 in. board . We get lots of favorable comments about this floor .
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KinAlberta
Member
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2016 17:26
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Are there any special screws out there that will hold them down tight. (I used deck screws on cedar decking and some boards cupped and since the car is so soft they just curled up pulling through the screw heads.)
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2016 20:29
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drywall screws work well indoors not outside
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Atlincabin
Member
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# Posted: 29 Aug 2016 22:13
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A typical 8-inch board cut green will shrink between 1/4 and 1/2 inch in width when finally dry. Makes for easy floor sweeping, though, just sweep stuff into the cracks and downstairs.... I built a cabin 40 years ago with 2x8 square plank floors, and they dried enough to look horrible. And those were supposedly "dry" 2x8s.
Also worth noting is that the TnG boards will be stiffer when walking on them because they are linked to the neighboring boards that will help carrying some of the weight.
My two cents.
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skootamattaschmidty
Member
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# Posted: 30 Aug 2016 09:49
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My log cabin originally had 1x5 rough pine boards for the floor. It matched the cabin nice and wore to a nice sheen with no sanding, finishing etc. It was laid tight and then with shrinkage gaps did result. It was in place for about twenty years before we put hardwood over it. Like altincabin said, sweeping was easy enough because everything just went into the gaps. The hardwood is much nicer for clean up etc. I guess it just depends on the look you are going for.
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CootersShabin
Member
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# Posted: 8 Sep 2016 14:55
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Thanks for all the replies. We're starting in on this tomorrow. I think the twice per year vacuuming will switch to 4 times per year and make sure we get it good before the end of Winter. I'm bringing a moisture meter up, and will be just taking a good guess at what gap to run (if any). I want a rough looking floor; we'll see what we end up with. We may sand it, or maybe we'll just leave it alone. I'd prefer to only lose the saw marks with time...
Thanks again and have a good weekend,
Cooter
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carr0406
Member
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# Posted: 8 Sep 2016 16:20
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I took the gamble on 1x6 pine boards this past weekend. Installed them as tight as I could. I used trim head screws every 16 inches through the sub floor and into the floor joists. Going to stain and poly next time I am there to try and lock out some of the moisture.
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Norsky
Member
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# Posted: 9 Sep 2016 13:07
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My In laws used 10 inch rough cut on their walls and ceilings and we liked it so much we are going to do the same.
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CootersShabin
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2016 12:47
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carr0406 and Norsky, those pictures look great. I have some extra rough cut that I'm going to do partial wall on the loft with now (bring the corners in with the Pine Board and Batten style, and connect the corners with a railing so the kids can look down into the main room - ladder will be a pass through at the gable end). Next is a shot of the floors. I really like how they look, now we debate finish now or finish later... Has any tried that new (to me anyways) Penofin Verde?
Cooter
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CootersShabin
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2016 12:49
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Floor:
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Riv
Member
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# Posted: 31 Mar 2021 06:09 - Edited by: Riv
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HI,
I'm curious how your project turned out? would you do it again if you had the choice? Thanks
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Norsky
Member
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# Posted: 31 Mar 2021 08:01
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Norsky
Member
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# Posted: 31 Mar 2021 08:11
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I would do it again. It's definitely rustic but we don't mind the flaws.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 31 Mar 2021 09:51
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I would advise against this unless you dont mine the very rough look,feel.
We had a cabin that was done with boards this way and the floor is nearly impossible to keep clean and sweep.
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Norsky
Member
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# Posted: 31 Mar 2021 09:54
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Yeah we only did the walls and ceiling with our project. I wouldn't want to try sweeping it
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CootersShabin
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2021 11:13 - Edited by: CootersShabin
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Others have already replied, and indeed it is tough to sweep real clean requiring more vacuuming. No splinters yet walking barefoot though, so definitely a pass. It's taking on character pretty quick too! All in all it goes well with the rustic charm though. I've since added a steel border between the wood and tile.
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CootersShabin
Member
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# Posted: 7 Apr 2021 11:36
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Another reply, having taking a trip through this thread and memory lane. I can't believe that was over 4 years ago!!!
We intend to build another, even more rustic, cabin on the property. There's always been a little struggle on just how rustic is acceptably rustic amongst family members. So, a "Boy's Cabin" or "Bunkhouse" will happen too at some point about 150 yards away on a different ridge. It's partly inspired by the need for even more rustic feel, but also out of need for more room and the ability to house more family and friends. I know it will create less wife-strife too once the boys start going up on their own... Plus, who wouldn't want to build another Cabin. (Quick description, it'll be a shed roof, long, narrow, one room below code requirements. Six built-in, floating Bunks, with individual windows for each. Simple wood burner with a cooking porch. 12V setup for just fans, lights, and charging devices.
I mention all that mostly because I do indeed foresee the current Cabin floors getting sanded and finished at some point. However, they've been great thus far and look good with the square nut nails. We still haven't finished the interior walls yet either. They actually haven't taken on any greyness to speak of, but instead are just taking on a slightly deeper pine wood tone. Longer term I imagine we invest in a different wood stove for the current cabin (moving the Jotul to the Bunkhouse) do some refinishing and prettying up. Plenty other projects first though including finishing a partition wall and doing the WoodShed/Bar/Outdoor Kitchen. Thanks for the question, I need to look back now to see if I owe any other updates. I did create some storage / loft stairs, and wall off the open end of the main loft. Not sure I posted it or not...
Happy Building and Enjoying,
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