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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Replacing rotted logs
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Diggingator
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# Posted: 16 Jun 2018 21:54 - Edited by: Diggingator
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Greetintgs,

Just bought a cabin that is going to need some TLC to get it back in shape. Looks like the first order of business is replacing a couple of heavily rotted logs. I've attached a couple of pics. Definitely a newbie at this so if pro help is needed, let me know. Otherwise, I am open to the DIY thing for sure.
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Malamute
Member
# Posted: 17 Jun 2018 14:10 - Edited by: Malamute
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As much as I dislike joints in walls, that may be much easier to do in two parts per log.

Is the log above the bad ones still sound, as in the extended part past the corner joint? If so, you can probably use a large-ish hydralic bottle jack to raise it just enough to give room to get the old log out and a new one in place. You may only have to raise it 1/2" or so. If it was spiked in the corners or anywhere along the wall, use a sawzall and cut the spikes or pegs with a long blade.

Making a duplicate of the underside of the corner joint with cardboard and transfer it to the new log, then sliding it in place from the inside side of the joint may work OK. You can leave the other end loose and push it inside the wall to give room for the other end to slide into place. A drawknife should work well in shaping the log and getting it the correct size and shape to fit in the opening along the foundation.

Is it mortar chinking? it looks like it. The cabin should be rechinked with one of the modern chinking materials, its not ahrd to do if you get the gun and plate that draws it from the 5 gallon bucket. Ive lived in cabins with mortar chinking, it doesnt seal well, either air or water, and may be one reason why the lower log rotted. if its straight mortar, it should be pretty easy to remove, it doesnt look like the portland/gypsum plaster/coarse sawdust mix, which is very tough and tenacious to remove. A hammer and star shaped concrete chisel will remove mortar chinking in pretty short order.

You can leave the mortar chinking on the inside, but Id certainly replace it on the outside if at all possible. It doesnt have to cost a fortune, and definitely use the backer rod, it cuts down on the amount of the expensive part of the new type chinking, and allows the modern chinking to function properly by expanding and contracting with conditions and not pulling away from the logs. Check for cracks on the upper surfaces of the log, if they can collect water and dirt, the logs will rot, which looks like happened in one of the pics of the bottom log.

Dont fall for the mystical "log builders had mystical knowledge and log work is impossible for mere mortals" line of thinking. Most older log structures Ive looked at, probably several hundred, the builders looked like they didnt have any special skills at all, most were just trying to hack out a useable shelter with whatever materials were close by. It seemed common for one guy to make a poor choice in technique and have lots of people copy it in an area, in other words, most werent carpenters or have any mystical knowledge.

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 18 Jun 2018 08:45
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Not abnormal to see rotted sill logs, water splashed on it. Remove it, and in fact, you could remove a couple of courses and add in a concrete wall with stone work overlay, so it will look rustic/old. Or just remove lower sill log, replace with new cinder blocks, mortar to next log up, but treat underside of bottom log with wood preserve. Do this all around, one side at a time. May need some temp bracing in a few spots. Or a treated 6X6 or 8X8 whatever fits, them mortar to next log up to carry load.

Diggingator
Member
# Posted: 23 Jun 2018 12:05
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Thanks for the guidence on this. Might have to get with a local cabin guy for the help on this one. Will post what direction I take and some more pics........

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