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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Air barrier between foundation and exterior wall
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darren
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 13:42
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I've finally gotten around to siding the cabin, but I'm curious about this potential air gap between the foundation and the wall.

I'm thinking of potentially using blue skin (or some other kind of tape) to seal the entire bottom perimeter.

The wall has Typar that hangs over about 4".

The cabin is on an extremely windy lake.

Thoughts?
IMG_4031.JPG
IMG_4031.JPG


darren
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 13:44
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**** I have no idea why that picture is sideways!

Borrego
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 13:52
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You need a piece of 'L' (1x6) flashing under the ply, that's all...if you want to put some sealant on the bottom of the L, that would be ok, but not necessary.....

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 18:55
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You used 8 foot siding, maybe go longer. Siding comes in many length. Extend it past the concrete a few inches, then maybe a membrane or something to tack to backside of siding that overlaps concrete. The can keep water out, and siding from contacting cement (rot)

ICC
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 21:40 - Edited by: ICC
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The drawing shows what I interpret to be plywood sheathing. Or is the plywood on the drawing the finished siding?

If built already, if you can still pry the lower edge loose and insert a z-strip, that is best. Tapes, caulks can fail. If that plywood is the finished skin then I'd use a highest quality caulk.

If not built already notr that you can use a layer of foam under the sill. Look for sill gasket as well as the z-strip under the lower panel edge.

And yes many 4 foot wide panels are available in 9 or 10 foot lengths which permit overlapping the foundation.

Borrego
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 21:52
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The 'L' flashing should go at the bottom, where the siding will meet the concrete.... Z-Bar, like ICC is talking about, would go between the two sheets of siding at the 8 ft line....

darren
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 22:21
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Not sure I'm explaining this properly. The above diagram is already built. I am going to add tin siding in the next few weeks. The tin siding will overlap the concrete about 2".

So can I just caulk the small gap between the plywood and the concrete or a wider (perhaps 6") membrane, such as blue skin all the way around?

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 23:01
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Darren, from the last explanation, do you need to even caulk it? If the metal is going on, and it will overlap it enough onto the concrete, then should be OK???. You can get foam blocking for your metal profile. I would do it. It sticks to the metal. Do this where it fastens at the bottom, probably the sill plate. This will allow it to breath, water to drain out if sweat builds up (and it can) and keep bees out. You will need a barrier between the metal and the wall sheeting. Can you run that barrier long at the bottom. Then with metal added with foam blocking, trim excess barrier off.

darren
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 23:10
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
You will need a barrier between the metal and the wall sheeting. Can you run that barrier long at the bottom. Then with metal added with foam blocking, trim excess barrier off.


I have Typar on the plywood, and it hangs down a little beyond the concrete, as well.

Not sure what you mean by foam blocking though.

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 23:19
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When you buy your metal for the siding, ask seller. There is a foam block that fits the profile and sticks to the underside of the metal. I assume the metal will look like roofing with breather channels? Those channels are open at the top and bottom. They make a foam that is pre cut to that profile, comes in 4 foot or 3 foot strips, sticks onto the metal.
See: https://www.lowes.com/pl/Roof-panel-closure-strips-Roof-panels-accessories-Roofing-Bu ilding-supplies/4294806360

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 23:22
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This video probably sums it up best.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PWVgJusdoM

Get the right one for your profile.

darren
Member
# Posted: 7 Jul 2018 23:31
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Ya, I used that on the roof. Didn't know what it was called.

Won't that block moisture and air though?

DaveBell
Member
# Posted: 8 Jul 2018 05:50
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The sill gasket and termite flashing go on before erecting the wall.
sillplate.jpg
sillplate.jpg


DaveBell
Member
# Posted: 8 Jul 2018 05:58 - Edited by: DaveBell
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See if you can fit a shallow (1x1) flashing under the wall. If so, Use an exterior caulk and caulk the gap and push the flashing into the caulk. You will have air seal and termite barrier. If not, caulk the air gap and nail the flashing on the sill so that it bends outward.

Is the sill plate PT or plain 2x6?

darren
Member
# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 19:17
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Quoting: DaveBell

Is the sill plate PT or plain 2x6?


Sill plate is plain 2x6.

DaveBell
Member
# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 19:38
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Say hello to the round headed wood borer.

DaveBell
Member
# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 19:40
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There may be a brush on wood protector you could apply to the sill plate and any other exposed wood.

darren
Member
# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 20:16
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Quoting: DaveBell
Say hello to the round headed wood borer.


I'm north of 60, so termites aren't a major issue here. I'll look into that wood protector though. Thanks.

Borrego
Member
# Posted: 9 Jul 2018 21:36
Reply 


Termites aren't the only issue..you need to get some protection in there. You can drill holes and inject PT type chemicals. If you don't do this you can expect problems...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmrsRNdypWY

DaveBell
Member
# Posted: 10 Jul 2018 00:54
Reply 


The name termite shield is a shortened term for termite/carpenter-ant/beetle/anycrawlingwooddweller shield.

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