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Small Cabin Forum / Off-Grid Living / Wood stove install in a 24x24 camp
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AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 14:46
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Building a cabin this summer. Just wanted to get some ideas on the best way to vent the wood stove. Was going to go through the rear wall and up along the exterior back wall to the ridge and up an extra 3' above the ridge. I'm not a fan of going through the roof unless I really have too. Any help be greatly appreciated.

I attached a pic of what the cabin is going to look like.
3233.jpg
3233.jpg


adkcamping
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:06
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I’m also building this year. It’s going to look very similar to your picture 16x24. I’m putting my stove pipe through the roof, towards the peak. I believe I’ll get the best draft this way. I also have to worry about snow sliding. I thought about redesigning my interior layout but this option works best for me. Good luck with your build.

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:11
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That and the chance of it leaking possibly later down the line makes me want to just go out the rear wall. My last camp was like that and never hand an issue with draft. You building your camp or someone is building it for you?

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:15
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This is what I'm thinking. Rise inside and exit up near the ridge.
Smyrna_Stalone_14.jp.jpg
Smyrna_Stalone_14.jp.jpg


ICC
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:17 - Edited by: ICC
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Chimneys that go straight up from stove top to the roof have the best draft and are also easier to clean.


Dektite makes excellent silicone chimney boots that work extremely well with metal roofing. They incorporate a dead soft metal ring that has the silicone molded around it. I've used one of those on every roof penetration we did on a metal roof for the past 20 years or so. Chimneys and all vent pipes.

example

spoofer
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:18 - Edited by: spoofer
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Yes.. thats what my chimney pipe is like in NY...out the back wall because of snow etc.

adkcamping
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:30
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I’m building it myself. My layout is an open two bunk area and bedroom on other side, in the rear portion. Kinda leaves me no choice but up and out through roof.

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:33
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Quoting: spoofer
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:18 - Edited by: spoofer
Reply Quote

Yes.. thats what my chimney pipe is like in NY...out the back wall because of snow etc.


Thanks guys. Yeh I'm not sold on either option just yet. and still have the time to choose. Spoofer hows the draft with that setup? How much it run you? Did you run double wall all the way up to the exit then triple wall on the exterior?

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:34 - Edited by: AdkAlpi
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Quoting: adkcamping
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 15:30
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I’m building it myself. My layout is an open two bunk area and bedroom on other side, in the rear portion. Kinda leaves me no choice but up and out through roof.


Nice. Where in the adk's you building? I'm over in natural bridge off route 3 right outside the park.

adkcamping
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 16:46
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I’m in Hamilton County. No road access. ATV/Snowmobile only. It will be fun getting materials/equipment back in. I’m rehabbing an old boat trailer for my atv now. I’ve already brought old power poles in for my piers with my snowmobile.

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 17:05
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Quoting: adkcamping
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 16:46
Reply Quote

I’m in Hamilton County. No road access. ATV/Snowmobile only. It will be fun getting materials/equipment back in. I’m rehabbing an old boat trailer for my atv now. I’ve already brought old power poles in for my piers with my snowmobile.


That's awesome. Well good luck with the build.

Greenland South
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 18:18
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Quoting: ICC
Dektite makes excellent silicone chimney boots that work extremely well with metal roofing. They incorporate a dead soft metal ring that has the silicone molded around it. I've used one of those on every roof penetration we did on a metal roof for the past 20 years or so. Chimneys and all vent pipes.


Check with the chimney manufacturer before using this type of boot on a 650C chimney used for venting a wood stove or wood burning appliance. Manufacturer would probably say no.

ICC
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2020 19:49
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Selkirk, a big insulated chimney maker. has a special kit that permits installation using a rubber or silicone boot. I should have mentioned that. The thing I like is that they seal very well and permit the stove to be installed where you might prefer rather than be stuck to installing only along an exterior wall.

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 07:42
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So like I've said my last camp exited in the rear single wall all the way up then triple through the wall and a rise of 6 feet on the exterior with double wall if I remember correctly. Was 3 feet above the ridge in the end. It had 2 90s. Never had an issue starting and it seemed like I had plenty of draft. I didn't install this but liked how it looked since the stove was centered in the room. Was easy to clean in my opinion. Seems like most are against the rear wall exit. Is it really that bad of a setup?

Princelake
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 08:29
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When I bought my house the wood stove went through the wall and up. My insurance company wanted me to change it to go up through the roof. So that's something to take into consideration.

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 09:45
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Not so worried about insurance companies suggestions or requests. It's a camp not a full time home so the stove will get used maybe a lil over a month each year. I disassemble the interior pipe each year and take it out and clean it. Exterior I use the t and clean it from the outside but I've taken that down before and cleaned & inspected that as well. Always burn seasoned wood and usually hardwood. Im just wondering why it seems most are against a rear wall exit.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 09:46
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You can go either way with the chimney but adding two 90* will slow the smoke and allow it to cool. Cooling smoke makes for creosote and a chimney with two 90* bends is always harder to clean.

With today's roof accessories a high temp silicone boot, tube of roof flashing cement and a box of roof screws you should not have a leak. They make snow splitters you can just glue down or if you make the exit for the chimney within a few feet of the peak you should not have a problem with the snow moving the chimney at all.

I got a leak free seal on my first try with the same R panel roofing you have. I used a $60 silicone roof boot and a $7 tube of roof flashing. I also made a inverted V with the flashing to shed any water away from the boot.

I'm also in NY but near Utica.

Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 09:56
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I'm kind of in the "straight up and through the roof camp", but that said my sister's place was and old 2 story home and the stove vented directly from the back of the stove through the wall where it entered a tee of triple wall pipe which ran up the end of the house... those 2 stories and about 3 feet above the peak of the roof.... not centered on the peak but not far off either. The tee at the bottom had a cap on its bottom so come cleaning time a garbage can - metal - was placed under the tee and as they brushed out the chimney everything went right into the can... slick! So only 1 90* at the tee, and I don't recall them having draft issues.

I will say over the years I have never had leakage where the pipe exited the roof. I've always used the metal pipe flashing. If installed correctly it will last for years.... time will tell on this cabin, I didn't install the flashing

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 10:19
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If you don't me asking how much did it run you guys to go up through the roof? Builder quoted me 800-850 for the kit and install. Which still leaves me having to buy the piping for the interior back to the stove and also the stove itself.

cspot
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 10:39
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Take a look at what the materials cost. The single wall inside pipe is relatively cheap. The triple wall that goes from the ceiling up thru and out is pretty pricey. I really searched when I bought mine, but it was still pretty pricey. If you are using a builder, I would probably pay to have him do it. Any issues with leaks and he would be responsible.

If assuming 6" pipe this would be the kit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DuraPlus-6-in-Triple-Wall-Basic-Through-The-Ceil ing-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-Vent-Kit-6DP-KBSC/100115151

Plus you need pipe. This is for only a 2' piece.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DuraPlus-6-in-x-24-in-Triple-Wall-Chimney-Stove- Pipe-6DP-24/204514670


For inside I recommend this as it makes a nice clean install.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DuraBlack-6-in-x-44-in-x-68-in-Telescoping-Chimn ey-Stove-Pipe-with-Trim-6DBK-TL/205544526

I ran mine straight up thru the roof. I did have a leak a couple of months after I installed, but that was my fault as I had a brace kit on the chimney outside and I didn't get a good silicone caulking seal on the one spot where it attached back to the roof. I redid it and I haven't had any issues. The draft on mine is great.

Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 10:42
Reply 


Here is a kit like I've used...this ...doesn't include the triple wall pipe. There are others.. ICC has suggested a rubber/silicone boot. You still need the "box" to support the triple wall up through the roof. Depending on how high the ceiling you will need single and possibly double wall to get from the stove to the ceiling.

I was quoted $800 - $900 to turn our chimney pipe around as it was installed female ends down allowing creosote to leak from the joints. Two neighbors came over and the three of us took it out, cleaned it and reinstalled it correctly in about 2 hours.

Stove companies must have high insurance premiums to pay....

cspot
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 10:44 - Edited by: cspot
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It has been a few years since I did mine, but I would guess not counting the stove which my Dad had picked up at an auction for $30 (great deal), I would guess that I probably had around $600 in mine by the time I bought everything to go from the celing and out.

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 14:12
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Thanks for all the input guys. I may just bite the bullet and have the builder install so I'm not liable if it leaks. What's the furthest I can go up with single wall before I need to transition into double wall? I know 18" from any walls or ceilings for single and if I remember correctly 2" with double.

ICC
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 18:05
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Quoting: AdkAlpi
What's the furthest I can go up with single wall before I need to transition into double wall?


That may depend on the stove used. Read the manual for any you may consider. 8 to 10 feet maximum is fairly common.

Irrigation Guy
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2020 19:19
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Just a food for thought here. I was all set to put in a wood stove in my cabin but opted for a propane “wood stove”. I did this for several reasons which some may agree with some may not. The clearances on a wood stove are pretty large like 18-24 inches from combustibles, gas stove was 6” so I saved a lot ove floor space in a small cabin. Venting can go right out the wall with no chimney. And when I arrive at the cabin at night like I did an hour ago all I had to do was turn on the gas and had heat in 5 minutes controlled by a thermostat. I use bbq tanks. In 20 degree weather I get a weekend out of a single tank.

cspot
Member
# Posted: 12 Jan 2020 11:59
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I have both wood and propane in my cabin which is just slightly larger. A wood stove does eat up some space, but to me a cabin just isn't a cabin without one. So nice just to sit and watch the flames.

AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 12 Jan 2020 18:01
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Quoting: cspot
# Posted: 12 Jan 2020 11:59
Reply Quote

I have both wood and propane in my cabin which is just slightly larger. A wood stove does eat up some space, but to me a cabin just isn't a cabin without one. So nice just to sit and watch the flames.


100% feel the same. I planned on putting in a propane wall unit near the kitchen. I love splitting wood and stacking...even more now that I don't split by hand. My property is mostly pine so I'm going to have a logger drop off 7-8 chords of logs. Cut and split & have enough wood for years. I also like having 2 options for heating. I appreciate all the help from everyone. I'm glad I joined this forum. Alot of great info on here.

Irrigation Guy
Member
# Posted: 12 Jan 2020 18:28
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Just to be clear I wasn’t talking about a wall type propane heater. I love the look of the wood stove so I compromised. It works for me but I know everyone is different.
4DEA346EFED24EE7A.jpeg
4DEA346EFED24EE7A.jpeg


AdkAlpi
Member
# Posted: 13 Jan 2020 08:17
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Quoting: Irrigation Guy
# Posted: 12 Jan 2020 18:28
Reply Quote

Just to be clear I wasn’t talking about a wall type propane heater. I love the look of the wood stove so I compromised. It works for me but I know everyone is different.

4DEA346EFED24EE7A.jpeg


Looks good. How much that end up running you? Cheapest I could find was $1800 for just the stove.

Irrigation Guy
Member
# Posted: 13 Jan 2020 09:49
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Quoting: AdkAlpi
Looks good. How much that end up running you? Cheapest I could find was $1800 for just the stove.


I found it on Craigslist or LetGo, can’t remember which for $800 came with most of the venting. I had to order a thimble and a cap which I think was $200

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