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Small Cabin Forum / Off-Grid Living / Honda EU2000i, running in cold weather
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Gary O
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 10:35
Reply 


I know, yet another thread on the EU2000i

Forgive my lazy redundancy, but as a new father I have questions.

So, after three-four hours of running, I took our newborn genny (calling her Baby Euie) inside for the night.

Got to -10F

Kept her in the bedroom with us.

Took her outside this morn.

Fed her.

Pulled her little cord.
Once
She's cooing now.

I poured over the very nice manual last night.
One language
Mine
(Kinda makes sense since I bought it here in the good ol' US of A)

Anyway, it mentions using 5/30 for cold in place of the generally recommended 10/30 (pg 49)

Right now she's frolicking on 10/30, but I don't want to hurt her, bring her up wrong....

I can easily change her formula to 5/30 since I have it in stock.

Thoughts?

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 11:11 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply 


Hey, if its inside when its shut down, it wont get cold enough to need the 5/30 and once running, its not cold (the engine) so in your case, the 10/30 will be fine. Even if you leave it in the cold overnight, you can bring it in and warm it up before hand (close the vent valve on the gas cap when you do and dont forget to open it when you run it). You want to change oil about every 50 hours, so keep it in your head roughly, the hours.

After 50 hours, toss in the 5/30 oil (will be about 3/4th of a quart is all it takes) and then in spring, move it back to 10/30. For now, if you are bringing it in at night, this will allow you to get use out of the new oil in it, otherwise, it will be slow to start, hard to crank over, just lethargic, but I have done it many times with no issues, just a FYI. Change to 5/30 after 50 hours, then every 50 hours or so, then back to the 10/30 in the spring thaw.

As for long term storage and alcohol free fuel, as much as you will be running that, all those are non issues.

Oil change is simple, remove the large side panel, pull dipstick out, pick up gennie and quickly tip it over and pout out old oil. Tip slow, oil will run into the chassis. Run engine, get oil warm and thin before doing this. I tip the gennie slightly backwards when filling back up and pour slowly or get a small funnel. I use a can of brake cleaner to clear out any oil I would spill. Oil will just collect dirt over time and look gunky/nasty, keep it oil free with brake cleaner. Just let it flash off before starting. Its flammable, but does evaporate fast, especially on a warm engine.

OK Gary, what is your opinion on this fine piece of equipment?

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 11:29
Reply 


Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
Hey, if its inside when its shut down, it wont get cold enough to need the 5/30 and once running, its not cold (the engine) so in your case, the 10/30 will be fine

Thought so
Just concerned because the exhaust is making snow right now....

Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
(close the vent valve on the gas cap when you do and dont forget to open it when you run it).

Yup
Got that down pat
Locked in memory

Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
when filling back up and pour slowly or get a small funnel.

yup
and the beauty is, 'fill' is at the lip of the filler hole

Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
OK Gary, what is your opinion on this fine piece of equipment?

I s'pose I'll one day begin taking it for granted, but right now I can't help but become a bit moist

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 11:32
Reply 


Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
After 50 hours, toss in the 5/30 oil

The manual recommends changing after the first 20 hrs.
Gonna do this, then go with the 50 after that

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 11:45
Reply 


Quoting: Gary O
The manual recommends changing after the first 20 hrs.
Gonna do this, then go with the 50 after that



Perfect plan "Gee"

groingo
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 12:01
Reply 


You sound as bad as me and my generators, pet them, talk to them , keep it spotless with liquid Turtle wax Carnuba, keep close tabs on oil and double filter fuel always with Lucas products then sell ten years later for more than I paid for it new.....keep it up, you're not crazy!

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 12:05
Reply 


Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
You want to change oil about every 50 hours, so keep it in your head roughly, the hours.



Engine hour meters are cheap enough.... I have one on every small 4 stroke engine device we have. I use the Hardline brand, bought mostly through Amazon. They have some that are reset-able.

FYI, the Honda EU have an engine hour meter, of sorts, built in. Start it and watch the green light on the end panel blink once for every 100 hours.

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 12:37
Reply 


Quoting: groingo
You sound as bad as me and my generators, pet them, talk to them , keep it spotless with liquid Turtle wax Carnuba

s-o-o-o-o baby oil isn't best?


Gary O
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 12:38
Reply 


Quoting: MtnDon
FYI, the Honda EU have an engine hour meter, of sorts, built in. Start it and watch the green light on the end panel blink once for every 100 hours.

I don't think I can wait that long...

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 13:14
Reply 


Start it now, keep the fuel tank full and you can see the first blink in about a week.....

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 14:03
Reply 


Quoting: Gary O
Quoting: toyota_mdt_techHey, if its inside when its shut down, it wont get cold enough to need the 5/30 and once running, its not cold (the engine) so in your case, the 10/30 will be fineThought soJust concerned because the exhaust is making snow right now....

not kidding about making snow
making_snow_5.jpg
making_snow_5.jpg


Steve_S
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 14:14
Reply 


After initial breakin period I switch to Synthetic 0W40. Flows instantly when cold and maintains viscosity when hot.

I learned many years ago about the benefits of using Synthetic is critical machines and motors which see extreme duty (like my 402-BBC, ZZ4-355 SBC). When you crack open an engine that has been running on Synthetic you immediately see the difference internally as compared to an identical motor run on conventional oil. Mobil-1 Synthetic is readily available and not outrageously priced either.

REFERENCE: Mobil-1 Synthetic Oil Data Other brand names are available, some cheaper, some more expensive. It's cheap insurance to keep something important running & dependable with least wear & tear when it can be avoided.

Salty Craig
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 14:19
Reply 


Gary O

Add one of these to my Christmas list. I have an Arctic Cat but these are much quieter. A friend has one and I love it. Best gen available. IMHO

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 14:42
Reply 


Quoting: Steve_S
benefits of using Synthetic


Been using Mobil 1 (mostly) since about 1981 in just about every engine

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 14:49
Reply 


Quoting: Steve_S
After initial breakin period I switch to Synthetic 0W40. Flows instantly when cold and maintains viscosity when hot

so, since mine recommends 10/30, I'd get the 10/30 grade Mobile 1?

NorthRick
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 15:21
Reply 


Synthetic oils have a wider temperature range that they can work in. I think 5/30 or even 0/30 would be fine.

Be aware that in very cold weather, -15f and lower, the breather hose on these can cause carburetor icing. When it happens, the engine will begin to surge. If it is bad, eventually the engine dies. Honda sells a kit (heater) that prevents this. However, you can simply disconnect the hose from the intake and plug the intake to solve the problem. In the photo below I'm pointing to the hose.
Honda Breather Hose
Honda Breather Hose


Steve_S
Member
# Posted: 29 Nov 2015 17:12
Reply 


Quoting: Gary O
so, since mine recommends 10/30, I'd get the 10/30 grade Mobile 1?


Initial Breakin should be with conventional 5w30. The breakin period seats the rings and bearings and sets the valves. This applies to all new motors regardless of size or use.

During winter 0w30 or 0w40 is best as it flows instantly throughout the motor. In Summer you can use 5w30. Now regardless of temps, how fast do you want active lubrication in the motor itself ? THAT is the real question to ask yourself. Also realize that it's the first 5 minutes of a motor running that most wear occurs (waiting for the oil to lube everything up nicely). I will never use 10W## oil (except if required for breakin). @ 0 deg C, 10W is thick as molasses compared to 0W##.

The first digit (##)w## is how fast the oil flows when cold, second number ##w(##) is how thick it remain at heat. The Lower the first # the faster it flows when cold!

REF:
Mobil's Benefits of Synthetic Oil
Good Article from AMSOIL related to the numbers & performance of Synthetics

Pennziol, Mobil-One and many others make Synthetic. All HD Military Equipment including aircraft use Synth (talk about critical application). Best Deals are usually when WallyMart has a sale on Mobil-1

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 30 Nov 2015 07:48
Reply 


Quoting: NorthRick
Be aware that in very cold weather, -15f and lower, the breather hose on these can cause carburetor icing. When it happens, the engine will begin to surge. If it is bad, eventually the engine dies. Honda sells a kit (heater) that prevents this. However, you can simply disconnect the hose from the intake and plug the intake to solve the problem. In the photo below I'm pointing to the hose.

Well.....this seems rather important

Quoting: NorthRick
However, you can simply disconnect the hose from the intake and plug the intake

with what?

NorthRick
Member
# Posted: 30 Nov 2015 14:29
Reply 


Quoting: Gary O
plug the intake with what?


I have a vacuum test kit from the local auto parts store that has various fittings, hoses, and rubber caps. I used a rubber cap that fit snuggly on the nipple the hose was attached to.

I imagine you could take a short piece of hose the same diameter as the existing one and somehow pinch off one end and stick that on to the intake nipple to seal it off.

ILFE
Member
# Posted: 2 Dec 2015 15:59 - Edited by: ILFE
Reply 


I live full time, in Cambodia. I recently found a distributor where I can get a Honda EU20i, which would be the equivalent as to what I would buy in the US, to use there.

Trouble here is, people selling a generator is one thing. However, knowing what oil I should run in the generator - well, that's a completely different kettle of fish. I guess you would have to live here, in order to really appreciate such statements.

Southeast Asia may see a lot of things. However, snow - cold weather for that matter, isn't in that list.

Can you generator gurus suggest the most appropriate oil I should use in the EU20i, for a warm to hot climate?

Oh, Gary O, I thought I had seen a lot in my life. But, a generator in a bassinet, brother, that is a first for me. :D

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 2 Dec 2015 17:07 - Edited by: MtnDon
Reply 


Honda recommends your choice of 5W-30, 10W-30 or straight 30 for temperatures up to 40 C. They don't have a recommendation over that. I'd go 10W-30 or straight 30 and maybe let the price be the guide if that was of any importance. They recommend service class SJ or later.

ILFE
Member
# Posted: 2 Dec 2015 20:38
Reply 


Quoting: MtnDon
Honda recommends your choice of 5W-30, 10W-30 or straight 30 for temperatures up to 40 C. They don't have a recommendation over that. I'd go 10W-30 or straight 30 and maybe let the price be the guide if that was of any importance. They recommend service class SJ or later.


Thanks, Don. No. Maintenance and longer life of the generator would take priority, over the cost of the oil.

My old 1990 YJ Jeep had a capacity of 9 quarts, when I lived in the US. I had a filter relocation kit and oil cooler on it. I figure I can afford the cost of one liter, for a Honda inverter generator.

AK Seabee
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2015 01:53
Reply 


In the last couple of days I have noticed the Honda EU 2000i priced at $899.00. Does anyone know if they are coming out with an updated model?

Julie2Oregon
Member
# Posted: 12 Dec 2015 03:34
Reply 


Wish they'd sell a propane model so folks don't have to modify the gasoline models.

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2016 08:50 - Edited by: Gary O
Reply 


Baby EUI update (as requested);

T-Tech, gotta admit, I thought you might have been a tad bit over the top when you adamantly stated '1st pull, every time'.
Man, that is so true.
(note to self; when T-Tech is adamant, log it)

The engineering

The quality

The simplicity

Is

Incredible


Engineering

I'll just target the fuel cap;
No fiddling around (back turn to find the thread)
Set it on the neck
Gently spin the generously sized cap
Give it nudge to 'click'
Even (what I'm going to call) the 'cap keeper' is substantial and just the right length, to permit the cap to lay outta the way on its side while pouring fuel, but not so long that the business end can find grime.

Quality

The panel says it all;
One large screw
One substantial threaded brass insert
Two beefy hinge tabs

Simplicity

It's full of oil when you can't get any more in it

This

Is

Genius

Oh, sure, I premeasure the .42 qts, but the at capacity feature of being full when the oil is at the lip of the filler hole keeps even the nincompoops in business

Had the audacity to take my baby EUI down to the well pump.
The Ryobi 2200 strained, went to high rev, and shut down.
Baby didn't even go to high rev

One alarming thing, we have gone from perking coffee on the stove to using an elect auto perk.
When we turn it on, baby goes into high rev.
This is OK, of course, but sends me into a brief dither every time. So I try to be the one to flip the switch so my mind can be prepared for it....

The Ryobi is still in Phoenix AZ warranty repair, gonna be another 3-4 wks I've been told.
If...baby ever needs medical attention, the local hrdwr store is the certified repair outlet.

Bottom line;
Honda just makes living off grid that much more doable.

I'll update later down the line, but imagine it'll be rather uneventful

bc thunder
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2016 16:58
Reply 


I second TMT, and will add that I let mine run for a few minutes to warm the oil before changing. To insure you get it all out. Also I like to change it before I fuel up, because when you tip it toward you to get those last few drops, the gas starts pouring out....... I ran mine in the shed to let it create its own heat.
IMG_0102.JPG
IMG_0102.JPG


toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2016 20:33 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply 


BC Thunder, the little gennie doesn't even emit that much heat. I ran it once in severe cold one winter back in around 2003 or so, and it was setting in compacted snow in our camp spot and it took 2 days to even finally melt the snow near the exhaust to expose the bare earth. In fact, put your hand over the exhaust outlet a few inches away, it wont burn you, its barely even warm. Its so efficient, it doesn't even hardly emit heat. How do they do that??? In fact, Garys makes snow its so cool.

Gary O, now that Ryobi rated at 2200 watts cant even run your well pump, but the Honda, rated for 2000 surge, 1600 watts continuous runs it with ease. Looks like Ryobi may have been fudging the numbers to make their unit appear better.

Then the fact its (Ryobi) way down in AZ for warranty work and wont be back for 3-4 weeks says even more about how important the high quality of a Honda EU2000i is.

Proof low cost or cheap is actually expensive, while expensive is actually cheaper (over time) in the long run.

Gary, did I mentioned my neighbor bought a Honda EU3000i because he needed to run an AC in new trailer he bought and sold me his EU2000i with 150 hours for $600. I own 2 of those little gems now.

I am set for life. I run my house during outages with a Honda EU6500is. Also an absolute gem.

Gary O
Member
# Posted: 11 Jan 2016 21:16
Reply 


Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech
Then the fact its (Ryobi) way down in AZ for warranty work and wont be back for 3-4 weeks says even more about how important the high quality of a Honda EU2000i is.

more weeks...3-4 more weeks
2-3 months all toll

Oh, I could buy two rybbies for one EUi

...I could also smash my foot with an anvil to relieve my headache

pizzadude
Member
# Posted: 12 Jan 2016 14:58
Reply 


Neither one of my eu2000i's have been started in some time. With the -20 degree temps last weekend,I got poor performance out of them. Took one of them into the cabin next to the woodstove for about an hour, it finally started.
It's been mentioned before that Honda really screwed up by not having a primer.
Maybe on the next model, if we complain enough...

tasteoftaiga
Member
# Posted: 12 Jan 2016 16:53
Reply 


When we run the Honda 2000 in really cold temps (-30 Celsius and colder) we put it in a wooden box that has about a 1/2 inch of Styrofoam insulation glued to the inside. The box itself provides only about 1 inch of room between the gen and the insulation on all sides, with holes cut near the exhaust and controls.

Bonus points if you cut handles in the box and can use it to carry the generator afterwards.

We had the honda's spit up their oil after cracking a seal twice when running in -35 to -40 celcius, which required a fairly major service.

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