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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2022 12:57
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Been a while since I've done much woodworking n putting a finish on wood. My perfect topcoat would be a water based low oder fast drying laquer. I thought I have a gallon of deft brand at the cabin but can't seem to find anything anywhere now.
I need to put a finish on 186 1x6x8' TnG pine for finishing out the upstairs ceiling. I would like to get a finish on it before I install it. Get a good coat on the back also to seal it.
Going to do a couple coats.
Also want to sand the walls down enough to smooth them out some. A lot of sanding n putting a finish on. The entire interior.
So saving labor is important. And I need a water based product to control the odors.
I see the acrylic stuff but not real familiar them. Deft brand petroleum based laquer and varathanes I know.
So any professional have painters or folks who have applied a topcoat to the inside of a log cabin or pine TnG ceilings, any suggestions ?
Thanks all, appreciate the support
Upstairs
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Front half
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Great room
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Lower level ceiling
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ICC
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2022 13:09 - Edited by: ICC
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I have used the Minwax Polycrylic water-based clear coats for over a decade, both the regular version and the floor quality version (on floors and stairs). They perform as well as any old oil-based finish I ever used. For me, there are several advantages. No obnoxious, dangerous to inhale, and flammable odors. You can clean the brushes with soapy water. It dries crystal clear, no yellow cast. Not everyone likes that, but I have never liked the yellowish tone that oil finishes impart. Oh, and they dry very fast. Available in several finishes; glossy thru matte. I like the satin best but there should be something for everyone's preference.
One slight downside, but it is not a factor once one gets used to it. Be careful to not leave excess finish behind. Drips, droplets, etc will not dry clear but remain white. I find using a high-quality stiff brush allows me to brush those away with relative ease. After I have used and cleaned a brush a few times for the clear coating that brush gets relegated to being used for staining and less critical uses.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2022 14:02
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I used clear shellac on the beaded plywood in one room of our cabin, 15 years later it still looks great. I've always liked working with shellac.
OTOH, what's the downside to leaving it bare? Walk into an unfinished pine cabin and the wood smell hits you, it's wonderful.
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lburners
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2022 14:35
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I have been using some Helmsman satin Spar Urathane on some pine. Apparently it works well for temperature changes so I figured that might be a good match. It claimed to be a clear finish but there is definitely a yellow tint that I am not happy about. Too lazy to sand and re cover. Probably am going to end up with some mix and match. Not a big deal since a lot of my stuff is reclaimed.
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gwindhurst
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2022 08:13
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Quoting: Fanman OTOH, what's the downside to leaving it bare?
Good question... I'm currently using shiplap in my cabin and have been contemplating using a "wipe-on" poly (50/50 Minwax/mineral spirit).
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2022 09:14
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Bare wood does eventually darken, change color. To each their own though. Bare does not look "right" to me, and to my eye, even a matte clear coat brings out the slight differences in grain coloring, the knots, and so on.
When considering any wipe-on product I would advise trying it out on some similar board before committing to a wall or ceiling. Again, people like different things, but I have never liked the wipe-on finishes, to the point where I once refused a job where the customer wanted the trim done in wipe-on.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2022 11:44
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I personally don't like polyurethane, except for surfaces that must be protected against moisture. Shellac and lacquer are easier to touch up, as any new finish applied will dissolve into the old. Poly doesn't that; once it's cured it stays solid, so you have to sand it if you're going to refinish an area and it never seems to blend right.
Aside from the one room I shellacked, I used a transparent exterior stain on the interior walls of our cabin, after using a one step stain/poly on our previous cabin (the goal in both cases was to get the plywood beadboard to match the existing chestnut beams and ceiling). If it was pine boards I probably would have left them as is.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2022 14:35
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as much as I like wood, we went (against my preference) with a white wash (just thinned out white latex paint put on and wiped off with a rag).
Once finished I'm glad Mrs Fishie went against my wishes as it really brightened up the place. Was fast and easy to do and easy to clean. Touch ups are simple.
If you want to avoid that dark interior look of lots of wood, I'd recommend it.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2022 15:46
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Quoting: FishHog If you want to avoid that dark interior look of lots of wood, I'd recommend it.
If the wood is light color in appearance, as fresh unaged pine, spruce, etc will likely be, then use of only a clear coat can be okay, IMO. But true clear, no yellowing oil finishes. But even then I like to have other wall or ceiling materials or finishes on some surfaces in the same space. I do not like stained woods as they do darken a room a lot as FishHoh mentioned. To me, all wood walls and ceilings is as boring as all white painted drywall surfaces.
Wise woman you married. 
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2022 17:05
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My cathedral ceilings and plank works, Beams were all done with 3 coats of Shellac. Worked well and the alcohol base means it dried pretty quick, make sure you have fresh air ! LOL. Drawbacks, top-coating after with Poly or something will create problems but latex paints etc are fine. No oil over it either.
My washroom, kitchen, all the pine ceilings, cabinets etc was all done with Water-base Polyeurathane semi-gloss, as well as all my baseboards, casings and trim works.
* My home is all a combo of red & white pine, red & white cedars, cabinets are 7/8" pine. No MDF, Particleboard or melamine etc here... even the finishing plywoods used are PureBond.
Experience, cost & performance + best finish for long-term a Good Water Based Polyurethane, applied per instructions. IF exposed to Sunlight via windows/doors etc then be certain to get a product with UV Protection ! otherwise you'll have discolouration where the sun hits the wood and where is doesn't.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2022 19:57
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FishHog, how much did you thin the white paint for the whitewash? We're planning that for the ceiling in our house.
Yes, all-wood cabins tend to be dark inside, especially when surrounded by trees. Lots of glass helps, whether windows or skylights.
In our cabin community a lot of the cabins were "updated" during the 1950s and 60s when people painted light colors over the beautiful chestnut beams and ceilings... you can't unpaint it. Well, maybe a little... in our cabin the ceiling/roof (native American chestnut cut on site during the 1920s) was fortunately untouched, but I had to scrape white paint off some of the vertical log posts.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2022 08:57
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Quoting: Fanman FishHog, how much did you thin the white paint for the whitewash? We're planning that for the ceiling in our house.
Really just depends on how thick you want the finish to be. We did a bunch of test pieces and picked as light as we could go. You can adjust the end product with how much you thin and how much you wipe off with a rag after, so you just need to test.
Let your samples dry before you decide what you want as it can change a bit in the drying process
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Aklogcabin
Member
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2022 09:46
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Thanks folks
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