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optimistic
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# Posted: 9 May 2023 20:03
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It's arriving tomorrow. Should I follow some kind of break in period? If so - what?
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Brettny
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# Posted: 9 May 2023 20:24
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It should be in the manual. But typicaly its change the oil at 5-10hrs and then every XX interval after that. I just wouldnt load the thing full tilt until a few hours. But all that should be in the manual available online.
Congrats on your nice new unit. Having a inverter generator at the end of a 12g 100f cord makes them even quieter.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 9 May 2023 21:32
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Thanks Brett. I have the 2000 now. Bought it used 10 years ago. It's beat up but works. I'll sell it to cover some of the cost.
Online I read that the manual does not mention any break in period... But I didn't check myself.
I also bought a bluetti 200max.
I was working on solar but honestly it got too complex. So I bought a watt o meter and had generator on it to see how much I use. The bluetti can suppurt cabin with light, ductless ac, chest fridge, and water pump for 14 hours on a full charge. So nice a quiet during the day. Then at night I turn on generator - feed the cabin and charge bluetti . So in the morning I turn it off and run off battery again. Seems like a simple no nonsense solution to me. Also being to be able to bring home the bluetti was a good selling point
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Ptomaine
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# Posted: 9 May 2023 21:43 - Edited by: Ptomaine
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I have broken in my two inverter generators (2000 and 2250 watt; not Hondas). I break them in with dinosaur oil. Before the first start I pull the plug and put a squirt of oil conditioner in the hole and pull the cord a few times before replacing the plug. I then start the generator and let it run at low speed for an hour. I would cycle the eco mode on/off a few times, but basically it was just idling. I change the oil then run it for another hour with a medium load. I then drained an refilled with full synthetic oil before using as normal. The two quick oil changes my be a little overkill, but the only cost is two pints of oil.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 9 May 2023 22:36
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Before living on my boat I owned a company that imported a Chinese brand of generators. We sold literally 1000s of those units (close to 10,000) to the RV market. In our 8 years and 1000s of units we had 2 motor failures.
1. Customer didn't put oil in it and the low oil sensor was bad from the factory (stuck).
2. Unit ran at a gravel pit and oil never changed (only added). The unit made over a year of 18 hour days before the abrasive dust in the oil ground enough of the cam lob to kill the unit. (we replaced the cam and that unit made almost 2 more years of 18 hour gravel pit days before the inverter died).
I'm posting this as I really don't think a "break-in" will have any significant effect on the longevity of these units. Especially Honda which would have a much higher quality standard than our imported Chinese brand.
I would change the oil after 5 hours, then just follow the standard maintenance suggestions. Do that and the motor will outlast the electronics!
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 9 May 2023 22:38 - Edited by: gcrank1
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I believe about everything (for at least the past decade) has come with full synthetic from new. How would I know? Dont 'know' but I read industry periodicals when I find them. The manufacturers dont want engine failures/warrantee issues and have no idea how a buyer is going to treat the new toy. Syn oil from new is cheap 'insurance' for them.
The oil filter is supposed to trap the particles so change it out early, and later too, the oil should be clean if you dont let the filter plug up and go into bypass.
I run my stuff at about 1/2 load for an hour or two.
Fwiw, I put my money and mouth together on my last lawn tractor purchase. I ran it without an oil change for 4years! Did change the spin on filter after the 1st 5 hours and again a year later. It is 12 yrs old, runs good and Doesnt Use Any Oil to speak of.
Opti, I kinda do it the other way 'round. We like the quiet of an evening so we run off the bat and psw inverter. Come the next day I often have to run the gen for some tool or other and can recharge the bat If Needed. But since going to a 100ah LFP I go For Days without needing to recharge, often just bring it home to charge on the 40a power supply (takes 2-2.5hrs is all).
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Brettny
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 07:02
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I did buy a 1kw sportsman inverter brand new. Ran it 1hr, changed the oil then at 3 and 10hrs. The unit only lasted 100hrs before developed a rod knock and smoked when warm.
I have a champion 4250w inverter now but it's only got 4hrs on it. I changed the oil at 3hrs and will again at 20 or when ever I get a break in the cabin build.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 09:39
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I believe that are made to run right from the start. And a generator doesn't have a throttle so engine runs on its own governor. The engine needs to run at a specific rpm to match the power output
Generators are also better off with a load on them. I have a few differect sized generators at the cabin for different jobs. And a couple more at home.
When the power goes out generators on an automatic switch run full tilt also.
Hey congrats on your new purchase now you have a better reason to get out to the cabin
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 09:48 - Edited by: Nobadays
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I'm with Ptomaine... Dino oil one hour at idle + eco mode on and off to vary speed... no load, drain, Dino oil again this time with a variable load using a hair dryer, on and off every so often for about 3 hours. Then synthetic oil, Use it but not full load until after 10 hours. Drain again at 10 hours and follow the manual for maintenance.
I used this method on my HF Predator, it now has 975 hours on it. Still runs and sounds great. We did this on a new Champion that my BIL bought this winter, he was surprised by the metal flakes in the first drain.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 10:40
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Quoting: Nobadays I used this method on my HF Predator, it now has 975 hours on it. Still runs and sounds great. We did this on a new Champion that my BIL bought this winter, he was surprised by the metal flakes in the first drain
I also saw quite a bit of shimmer in the oil on my sportsman that only lasted 100hrs.
There was some people on YT that had over 2k on there 3500w predator generator..that's impressive for such a budget unit.
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offgrididaho
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 10:41
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General thing I've heard with any gas engine is don't run it at the same RPM / load on break in, so that would be my only suggestion would be to do a few hours of varying load on it before that first oil change. Then go synthetic and set and forget 
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pabear89
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 11:50 - Edited by: pabear89
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What i have done for the break in of my honda gen.s.
Out of box, filled with oil and gas then start with eco off. Run for 5 min to heat up then switch to eco mode.
Plug in the coffee pot and let it run all day, it will cycle the speed each time the element comes on.
Next day change the oil and use it, I have one that we used to run the camper 24/7 for years while building the cabin with just normal maintenance and it has about 10k hrs and still works fine but now uses about 1oz of oil in a week of run time when needed.
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Nate R
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 13:27
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Yeah, as someone that works for a small engine manufacturer.....I agree...good to do an initial oil change after a few hours. Loading is fine within the first few hours...varying a bit can help. But yeah, none of it will likely make a major difference.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 21:08
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thanks everyone need to figure out what I can plug to it that will vary the load. I don't have coffee maker..
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optimistic
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# Posted: 10 May 2023 21:10
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btw for gasoline.... I only buy the highest grade I can find. (too much of a pain to get no ethanol fuel) and I add seafoam to it. 1oz per gallon.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 11 May 2023 07:43
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Sorry for multiple posts. I just called my local Honda service shop. They said - no need to break in... I think I'll run it for 2-3 hours in eco with cycling eco off every 2-3 hours but no loads. Then I'll do an oil change. And that's it. Sounds OK?
Also, I ordered Honda engine oil and it is conventional. People commented online that Honda recommends using conventional vs synthetic. Any thoughts?
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 11 May 2023 07:45
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They are designed and timed to run on eth-blend reg grade.
Yes, you can spend the big $ per gallon for 'prem' and the SeaFoam, but not me. Not 'in season' anyway when Im running my small engines regularly. Im just running through the gas, it isnt sitting any length of time and going bad.
That said, at season's end before a lay-up/storage I Will fill (small gas tanks) and run Non-Eth Prem the last times I run the equipment.
Fwiw, eth-blend reg and eth-blend prem will both age out in about 3 months. If you are going to add a 'stabilizer' it may as well be to the cheaper regular if all you have available is eth-blends. The best would be to source some non-eth prem sometime in season if possible and stabilize it, readying it for lay-up.
Qtr century + of doing it this way has worked for me.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 11 May 2023 08:13
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Quoting: optimistic btw for gasoline.... I only buy the highest grade I can find. (too much of a pain to get no ethanol fuel) a
Where are you located? I thought you where in NY? Basicly every Stewart's shop has E0 high test..and if you have a cabin north of dutchess county you prob pass by one.
Ethanol absorbs water/moisture and can cause alot of bad fuel problems. The $1 more a gallon is worth the cost vs the aggravation of fuel issues when you need the thing then most.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 11 May 2023 09:24
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True, for something that sits a lot/dont know when you will use it next. Even then the best thing is to drain the tank and run the carb dry.
For something you are running regularly, in season, the eth-blend works just as well as in your car.
I dont want to spend the $ on prem today for something Im going to use almost every day, or like my lawn mower, once a week.
My logic, my style of management, point made (overmade maybe so I'll stop).
Ymmv, everybody pays their money and takes their choice 
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travellerw
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# Posted: 11 May 2023 10:53 - Edited by: travellerw
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I'm with gcrank1.. If you are using it all the time, I don't bother with the good stuff. That is just throwing money out the tailpipe.
If its gonna sit, then I drain the carb and ensure the fuel is off and tank vent is closed. Then stored in a cool place (not a 100 degree shed). Even eth fuel will last a long time like that. I have started units with eth fuel that sat like that for 2 years no problems.
In our company we tried pretty much everything as a stabilizer (seafoam, sta-bil, xm5, bla bla). None of them seemed to have any appreciable affect. Proper storage had the biggest effect.
As to oil... Just use good quality oil. Synthetic or dino juice is fine as long as its a quality oil (not dollar store black can). Personally I think synthetic is a waste if you are using the unit occasionally and changing the oil on a schedule. BUT.. It only takes like 600ml of oil so why not.
I would not use Honda oil as that is just paying for a name. Honda doesn't make oil and is just rebranding one of the big oil house brands, then slapping a healthy markup on it.
I still have one of our Chinese units that I use at our cabin. Its 7 years old and closing in on 1500 hours. Used Walmart Supertech its whole life (sometimes syn, sometimes regular depending on what I had left over from other changes). Starts and runs like a top and burns zero oil!
P.S. I think you are putting too much thought into this. Its a retail generator product by Honda. Its gonna work and give you many years of service.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 12 May 2023 15:33
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Just run it, first hour, off eco mode, this will be best for the camshaft. Use genuine Honda oil, not automotive.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 13 May 2023 01:13
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech Use genuine Honda oil, not automotive.
Can I ask why? I mean Honda doesn't make oils, its made by one of the big oil houses (a quick google will show that)..
Is there some magic that Honda has spec'd? I mean oil technology isn't rocket science and you can take any oil and send it for analysis from a lab (using a mass spectrometer). Hundreds and hundreds of resources online that have done that and I yet to see an oil that contains anything but the standard package of detergents and dispersants. Its just standard stuff, and there is no way a little spash based engine needs more than what a high revving, high hp automotive engine needs. I mean seriously, we are talking 1950 tech in those engines.
Anyway.. I would love to hear some reasoning. As a person that owned a company importing similar small engines, but also repairing them (including Honda and Yamaha). There is absolutely no reason to use their suggested oils!
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Brettny
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# Posted: 13 May 2023 07:00
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I have honda oil and filters in my garage but there not for generators or cars. It's because I own honda quads and at the time a honda oil filter was $4 (the same price as aftermarket) and a gallon of there motorcycle oil was $22. Both machines had wet clutches so needed a special oil.
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Nate R
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# Posted: 14 May 2023 08:47
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Quoting: travellerw Its just standard stuff, and there is no way a little spash based engine needs more than what a high revving, high hp automotive engine needs. I mean seriously, we are talking 1950 tech in those engines. Anyway.. I would love to hear some reasoning. As a person that owned a company importing similar small engines, but also repairing them (including Honda and Yamaha). There is absolutely no reason to use their suggested oils!
These days...car oils have much less Zinc and Phosphorus, generally...to help preserve/not clog up cats. Car oil is also more and more about MPG.
Your 1950s tech engine is air cooled, and that is SUBSTANTIALLY harder on the oil than your liquid cooled EFI car. A loaded 80cc engine spinning at 5K RPM inside a plastic box that's pushing some air..... The oil could see 300F+ under heavy use. I doubt your car oil is seeing over 200 degrees.
My point is... these days, sometimes the OEM branded oils do have a different additive formulation compared to the standard off the shelf car oil. Some are also optimized for exhaust emissions.... Using a specific formula that holds up better as far as engine deposits over time, as emissions is looked at through the life of the engine. (There are tests done through engine lifetime, not just when brand new..)... So in those situations oil additive packages can make a difference, too.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 14 May 2023 10:00
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Interesting thread.
I use generators & other similar equipment, I always break-in with whatever grade oil is recommended such as 5W30. 1st run is always a low hour run. 10-20 hrs max, pending what it is, then I switch to either Mobil-1 0W50 or 0W30 Synthetic Oil. With a Genset, I will leave the Synthetic to 50 Hours and it is still "Amber" but starting to get dark but still see-through.
I've done this with Gennies, Lawntractors, snowblowers (most important there!) and other small 4-stroke equipment without any issues for decades.
Snowblower always get's 0W30 because that oil needs to get to the top of the motor as fast as possible when it's -35 outside otherwise you are grinding steel.
One thing that has happened over the past 3 years or so, is the cost of Synthetic Oil went LUDICROUS so one has to keep an eagle eye on sales and be ready to buy when it comes up...
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 14 May 2023 17:10 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: travellerw Anyway.. I would love to hear some reasoning. As a person that owned a company importing similar small engines, but also repairing them (including Honda and Yamaha). There is absolutely no reason to use their suggested oils!
I didnt go into detail about finding an oil with ZDDP for break-in, just figured suggesting OE Honda oil would be the simplest. But was afraid of a debate, it always happens on oils and spark plugs.
I am a current technician at a large automotive mfg franchised dealer
So you speak of 1950's technology, you are right, all the more reason to NOT use regular today's automotive oils unless you want a flat cam. The zinc is gone.
I did a quick internet search.
Read the full link, has loads of good info.
Break-In Oil - Does Zinc Additive Really Help
When Do I Need Break-In Oil?
All new engines, regardless of year or cam style, require ZDDP for the first start-up and break-in period. This is for crate engines, rebuilds, and new custom builds. Engines installed in your new car off the dealer lot are not in the category; they have already been broken in. You also need to use high zinc break-in oil with any flat-tappet cam swap. It wouldn’t hurt to use a ZDDP additive or break-in oil for roller cams, but it isn’t as critical to have higher levels of ZDDP with roller cams.
New Honda generators come with no oil, you install it. A dealer might do it for you. But dont use automotive oil, especially for break in. Power equipment is flat tappets, 50's technology and no better way to destroy a new engine with zince free oil or reduce its overall live. Once broken in, an oil with a little zinc is good which leads me to power equipment oil
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ICC
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# Posted: 14 May 2023 17:54 - Edited by: ICC
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I know Honda and Kawasaki power equipment oils all have some zinc. Shell Rotella T Diesel oil has pretty good zinc levels.
Here's a handy table from Speedway Motors from a year or so ago. We have used some Lucas ZDDP-enhanced oil in a few select engines.
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ICC
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# Posted: 14 May 2023 18:05 - Edited by: ICC
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And here's a Mobil 1 download listing zinc and phosphorous levels for their oils
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travellerw
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# Posted: 14 May 2023 19:56
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Its an interesting debate. However, it just wasn't our experience with our units, or the competing units we worked on/sold.
We ran EVERY unit we sold (part of our QC check). Each unit would get 10-15 min of run time and every one of those units was run with whatever quality oil we could get cheapest (sometimes Supertech, sometimes Penzoil, sometimes Valvoline). That would be 10,000 or so units "broke in" with low zinc oil. Again, we only had 2 engine failures in our years of business. 1 of those failures was definitely oil related. In that the oil was never changed and run in terrible conditions for a huge number of hours.
It seems that oil is like talking about anchors in the boating world. Anyway.. Do what makes you feel comfortable. Its your unit, your money and if a process or oil makes you feel better then give'r. These units take so little oil that it really has no appreciable financial impact!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 14 May 2023 23:02 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: travellerw That would be 10,000 or so units "broke in" with low zinc oil.
Yes, low zinc oil is great, its the no zinc oils that is dangerous. Oil made for powerequipment will likely have zinc. You want zinc for break in, in fact, break in oil has extra zinc
All new Hondas I have bought come with no oil, you have to install it yourself. Hate to see someone grab some 5/30 with no zinc for the most zinc critical time for a new engine.
Traveller, no sure how long you been out of the biz, the zinc phased out when roller tappets showed up vs the flat tappet cams where the zinc is critical. Our Honda gennies have flat tappet cams.
Around the turn of the century is when zinc was phased out, so be hard pressed to find it in automotive oil sections. Older oils like 10-40 may have it, look on the can for zinc or ZDDP.
Zinc in car oils will damage or plug up the converters, reason it was phased out and roller tappets phased in.
ICC, good info (links) too.
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