|
| Author |
Message |
MIKE B
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 18:35
Reply
LOOKING TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS DRAINED THEIR SYSTEM BY USING A COMPRESSOR HOOKED TO A FAUCET.
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 18:43
Reply
I use a compressor. It is attached into the plumbing at the pressure supply pump for the system. Air is pumped up and we go round the cabin twice opening faucets, one at a time, until they all blow clear. More or less the same as what you propose.
|
|
MIKE B
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 18:52
Reply
MTNDON,
THANKS...I'M ON A WATER SYSTEM WITH OTHER CABINS SO I WOULD NEED TO INSTALL A FITTING AT MY WATER INLET.
MY CONCERN IS WILL I GET THE WATER OUT FROM THE AREA WHERE THE AIR "DEAD ENDS" ?
MIKE B
|
|
MIKE B
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 18:59
Reply
SEE MESSAGE I SENT TO MYSELF
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 20:54
Reply
I don't have any dead ends. Each pipe runs to a faucet.
Is your main shutoff valve below ground? The pipe from there up into the cabin could be a worry. My system does not have a permanent connection to the exterior, so I have only to clear out the lines and tanks in the cabin. And those have direct drains to the underground cistern.
I also have PEX tubing, which can stand freezing. Fittings and valves on the other hand can not generally stand any freezing at all.
|
|
MIKE B
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 21:54
Reply
MTNDON,
THANKS AGAIN............IF I USE THE BATHROOM FAUCET THE PIPE RUNNING BACK TO THE SUPPLY SHUT OFF VALVE WOULD BE "DEAD END" AND I'M WONDERING IF THE AIR FROM THE COMPRESSOR WILL FORCE THIS WATER TO FLOW AGAINST THE FLOW OF THE AIR.
THE MAIN SHUT OFF VALVE IS IN THE CRAWL SPACE ABOUT 10" ABOVE GROUND LEVEL....I'M WORKING ON THIS PROBLEM.
MIKE B
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 22:12
Reply
I would think air pressure could drive the water back to and through the valve. Not sure how to tell for sure? You could disconnect the pipe on the cabin side of the main valve.... Maybe install an airline fitting just after the main valve. Run an airline from there to an easy access point. Won't meet code most likely but it would permit air to be blown in there.
Could the valve be replaced with a buried valve like I have on my house. It's three feet deep (frost level is 18"). I use a rod with a forked end to turn the valve. Valve has a 4 inch access pipe vertical from ground level down.
|
|
Just
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 22:39
Reply
where i come from" Don" thats called a curb stop make sure you get one that self drains after it is shut off " Mike " that way the
line that goes up into the cabin will drain and be protected .
|
|
|
Malamute
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Sep 2011 00:10 - Edited by: Malamute
Reply
I dont think air will clear a dead end line, it needs flow to move water, and no reason for it to flow against a dead end. The self draining curb stop is the way to go if you can do it. It would give you a point to blow back out, or may even self drain if the lines are set right. I'd still blow it tho.
I put in a drain valve on lines like that, or an air fitting. Usually have a low point drain when I build, even modern houses.
Using an air gun in a faucet works, you just need a place for the air and water to move to. Any small pool of water in the line can freeze and break. I've had it happen on a cabin that was blown out, just not good enough, it had a low point that wouldn't blow clear.
|
|
larryh
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Sep 2011 00:17
Reply
This is a great topic and one that should be approached before construction begins. I made my system so that all the lines slopped downward to the cistern and in bad weather I could open the line and let it flow back out of the house totally expect in those days I still had an inside toilet which couldn't be drained. All the other sinks had a drain and shut off under them so that the water could be let out. This was possible because I had a gravity tank for pressure in the attic which everything sloped away from. A closed and pressure system is harder. Now that I have city water I installed a faucet just above the in coming shut off so that if I need to drain the upper lines ( or did since I am not currently using them), I could shut the incoming water about a foot off the floor level and all the water above that point would drain out the opened faucet. I know that the plumbers say that they can use a pressure tank to force the water out of a system, but having a way to let it drain naturally is sure a lot less stress on the brain.
|
|
MIKE B
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Sep 2011 12:39
Reply
THANKS TO ALL FOR THE INPUT...I JUST DISCOVERED THE SYSTEM IS SLOPED FROM THE LAST OUTLET...OUTSIDE HOSE CONNECTION...BACK TO THE INLET...A 13" DROP...WOULD HAVE THOUGHT IT WOULD HAVE DRAINED TO THE OUTSIDE VALVE.
WILL HAVE A DRAIN VALVE INSTALLED JUST AFTER THE MAIN SHUT OFF VALVE.
I PLAN TO BUILD A BOX AROUND THE MAIN SHUT OFF VALVE FROM THE GROUND UP 18"...THE SHUT OFF VALVE IS 10" ABOVE GROUND LEVEL. THE BOX WILL BE FILLED WITH INSULATION...THE QUESTION IS HOW BIG OF A BOX IS NEEDED FOR A POSSIBLE -30F FREEZE?
MIKE B
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Sep 2011 13:32
Reply
Does the cabin have power from a utility company? If so, you likely have a monthly charge irregardless of use. A heat tape wrapped around the valve/pipe and under the insulatiion would help.
If no power it's another matter. What do the oter cabin owners do? Does that work for them?
The thing about insulation is it only slows down the heat transfer; warm side to cold side. If there is no heat source eventually the warm side will reach the ambient temp on the cold side.
|
|
MIKE B
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Sep 2011 16:14
Reply
MTNDON,
THANKS FOR THE TIP ON INSULATION...HAVE POWER, SO I'M GOING THE HEAT TAPE ROUTE...PLUS THE BOX...WHEN WE LOSE POWER IT USUALLY IS BACK ON IN A DAY OR SO.
MIKE B
|
|
|
