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dpoisson
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2011 15:20 - Edited by: dpoisson
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Well, I started day dreaming about a little hunting camp lately (12x12 with sleeping loft). After adding all the numbers, it seems to add up quite quickly.
It then dawned on me to try and build a log cabin style camp with 4x4x12 dimensional lumber using dovetail notches. Our budget is very limited, so the lower the better. So, if we can use mecanial means to gain strength (dovetail joint) vs putting in 2-3 nails, we'll go for it. Also, this is why 6x6 or bigger beams are out of the question.
I read (on this forum I think?) that for every inch of wood, it gives approx an R-value of 1.41. So, for a 4x4 (3.5"), it would almost give us R-5...which isn't that bad. I use 2 sleeping pads one over th eother when I winter camp in a tent and they have an R-value of 2-3 each...
I was also thinking that I'd forgo the chinking and pile the logs one over the other. Maybe add a long dowel rod into all of them or do a thong/groove type thing on each one (ouch, time consuming...but if we have too). Perhaps glue them in place?
As you can see, the whole process of joinery / setting the logs is foggy to me. Which is the reason for my post. Are there any websites that describes and SHOWS the different types of joints for flooring, dovetail notches, roofing, etc? If not, any good books that illustrate really well how to build a log cabin? I've read many reviews on amazon, but I'm lost as to which book is good and will give me the info I need. I'll probably need to adapt a lot of things for use on 4x4's, but as long as I have the theories and reasoning why each joints is the way it is, I'll be able to translate theory to my problem.
Thanks!
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2011 15:37
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Welcome! I know nothing about log cabin building but I want to suggest your local library for books to read. We live in a smaller town and our library has books on building log cabins-also they share resources with many other towns libraries so if one doesn't have it another may. It beats spending $$ and not getting the info you need.
Good luck on what soon may become an addiction for you, there is really a sense of accomplishment when building your own cabin! Enjoy the ride :)
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 2 Nov 2011 18:15
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Dude, if you use nice squared timbers, on your corners, use the "butt/pass method. Then on the corners, drill a hole and pin the corners with rebar. Then spike the timbers as you go along. Here is a picture of butt/pass corners. Makes it a snap!
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2011 13:22
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On the Butt/Pass, do you spike the timbers in the center with rebar, too or peg it with drilling and dowels, what spacing between spikes
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dpoisson
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2011 13:09
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I actually thought about the fact that the 4x4's will probably warp.
I was thinking a tongue and groove type thing might keep things straight (in addition to the weight of the structure), but that's a whole lot of work and sort of defeats the purpose of using dimensional lumber! No? Then again, I did find information that suggests that this is actually done in some types of log cabins.
My next idea brought me to using a plugging router and making a 1/2 wide by 1/2 in deep channel 8' long (centered on the center of the 12' lengths) and insert 3/4" wide by 8' long strips of plywood and a bit of glue...would that work?
Of course, using a steel bar and inserting one at each end and one in the middle would work as well. I'd pre-drill a hole into the 4x4's in the right spots before final assembly.
My original question hasn't been answered yet though (though I appreciate all the suggestions so far!): Where can I find any specific, detailed and illustrated information on joinery techniques used in log cabin / timber framing?
Cheers!
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2011 16:59
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You may want to take a look at what this forum member did building his cabin, along the same lines of thinking.here http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/2_599_0.html ...he did some sort of offset stacking of 2x8's.
Kev
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 6 Nov 2011 11:45 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: Anonymous On the Butt/Pass, do you spike the timbers in the center with rebar, too or peg it with drilling and dowels, what spacing between spikes
They pin them right through the center of the corner joints using re-bar. I'd spike them along the run just to keep it square and strong to carry the weight. There is also "D" logs you can buy milled, has interlocking bead to keep it in place, but still float for expansion. You can use the butt/pass method on the D logs too. They come grooved for wiring also.
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Kyle S
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# Posted: 7 Sep 2021 15:11
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I could use some advice. Now I’m a little behind since I already did the joists, but is there a decision on how to strengthen the foundation of the walls before I put up the walls. I added some boards to strength the sturdiness of it. It was a little wobbly. Now it barely moves. This foundation has been like this for about three years. No problems yet. I’m not doing this per code. This is an off grid cabin just building for fun. It’s a 12x16 cabin. The rest is decking material.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 7 Sep 2021 19:26
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Quoting: dpoisson My next idea brought me to using a plugging router and making a 1/2 wide by 1/2 in deep channel 8' long (centered on the center of the 12' lengths) and insert 3/4" wide by 8' long strips of plywood and a bit of glue...would that work?
My father built a cabin just like this. It was many years ago and even though I helped its a little foggy. I will try and post what I remember!
He used a chainsaw to cut the groove and then inserted plywood. Then cut a groove in the next log and sandwiched the plywood between the 2 (in the groove on the bottom and the groove in the log above). He tried to make it a tight fit so it wouldn't be affected by shrinkage much. All this was done with rough cut, but dried timber. The plywood eliminated any chinking and kept things sealed up. The dimensions were 20X16 with a 1/2 loft.
It was built over 24 years ago and is still standing and being used today. Just to note, the loft has been abandoned for sleeping as it was just WAY WAY too hot with the wood stove. As with all lofts, you need to plan airflow and cross ventilation to make them comfortable.
I have attached a picture of the cabin about 10 years ago. Nothing has changed today except new shingles and some roofing boards.
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