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wrigsr46
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2012 22:21
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Hello,
I recently built a 24X20 log cabin and I'm considering insulating the inside walls. The metal roof already has double bubble insulation. I was thinking about putting a plastic vapor barrier on the inside with fan fold insulation. The walls are 6X6 butt and pass logs that I cut myself. Any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2012 23:03
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Hmmm.... I am not sure what is meant by fan-fold insulation?
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2012 07:12
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If you want the logs visible from the inside, I don't see how you can insulate it. If having the logs visible is not important to you, then you could fair-out the walls with vertical 2X4's and insulate between them, but you would need to cover it. Another option, use 1/2" plywood over 1 1/2" styrofoam 4X8 sheets; just run screws thru the plywood into the logs to secure it. A foil backing will add to the insulating value of the styrofoam.
Tom
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wrigsr46
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2012 11:02
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Mtn Don- Fan fold insulation is underlayment insulation that goes under vinyl siding and it comes in 1/4- 1/2in thickness. Its size is 4'X 125'.
Martian- The visibility of the logs really isn't important to me because eventually I would cover it with 1X6 T&G or shiplap siding.Btw all of my lumber is free. I like the idea of using 4X8 sheets with the plywood but was hoping to find something alittle cheaper.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2012 11:21
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Thanks for that
Just an observation. If you insulate on the inside you pretty much lose any thermal mass qualities of the logs. In a part time use cabin that could be an advantage as the interior will warm up quicker with insulation. Depending on the foam type the Rvalue is 4 to 6 per inch. A half inch won't really be doing much, IMO.
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Martian
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2012 16:38
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Quoting: wrigsr46 The visibility of the logs really isn't important to me because eventually I would cover it with 1X6 T&G or shiplap siding.Btw all of my lumber is free. I like the idea of using 4X8 sheets with the plywood but was hoping to find something alittle cheaper
Well, if you are going to cover with wood, then use the 2X4 furring strip method and insulate between them. That would be the cheaper route and give you something to attach the wood to.
Tom
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2012 23:45
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What about spray in foam? You could then stain it or paint it.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2012 11:11
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Never leave foam exposed; it is very flammable.
There special paints called intumescent paint, that can be used to protect surfaces from heat and flame. They are quite pricey though. They expand when exposed to fire and provide insulation. Not fire proof, but fire resistant.
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Martian
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2012 13:40
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After more reflection, I'd not go with fiberglass batts. My concern would be the glass mat absorbing moisture if against the logs. Styrofoam panels would be much better, I think.
Tom
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Jeremy165
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2012 13:46
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I think you should fur out for an air gap and go with foam. Fan foam seems like a lot of work for a very small gain in R-value.
I bet you have already gotten around to it, but looks like you haven't gotten to chinking yet. That should eliminate some of the draft.
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yankeesouth
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2012 13:17
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I went with used 4 x 8 sheets of ridged foam. 2 inches thick, spray foamed all the cracks. Covered it with tar paper ran wood planks for affect. Accomplished what I have read to be somewhere between r-10 and r-14-ish for the walls. That way I looked at it for seasonal use it was critter proof and moisture proof. to each his own but it worked for me.
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Montanan
Member
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2012 15:13 - Edited by: Montanan
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I don't really know why you would need insulation on the interior walls once you have good chinking. Our 22x26' cabin is log and I have been incredibly impressed by the insulating ability of the logs (though it takes a while to get them warm, of course.)
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