Small Cabin

Small Cabin Forum
 - Forums - Register/Sign Up - Reply - Search - Statistics -

Small Cabin Forum / General Forum / cost of sharpening a chainsaw?
Author Message
optimistic
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 20:21
Reply 


Hey

I am trying to buy a used one off of clist. Saw some for 50-80$ (gas). I believe I'll need to sharpen their chains and that I will take it somewhere to do so as this is not something a newb should do (according to google)

Any idea how much does that cost?

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 20:39 - Edited by: MtnDon
Reply 


Here in NM, $6 -7 for up to a 16 - 18" chain.

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 20:44
Reply 


Thanks Don.

TomChum
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 22:57
Reply 


A new chain might cost $15-$20. You can order them on Amazon, and if you have it you won't be skunked aftr driving out to your land. A newb won't know how fast its supposed to cut. So cut with what you got, and if you're wondering if it gets better, put on the new chain. And then when its time to go to the sharp-shop you will have two chains to sharpen. Chain is a wear item, you will need more than one.

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 23:15
Reply 


Good philosophy. I will give it a go and get another chain latter.

Martian
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2013 23:50
Reply 


Eventually you won't need the guide if you cut enough wood.

Rick004
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 01:38
Reply 


Also if you're a newbie maybe read up a bit on saw safety and hopefully have someone experienced with you to show you how to handle a saw !!

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 07:35
Reply 


Yeah I saw three video online. Which is why I asked about sharpening it - they said in the video that it is safer to have it sharp

fpw
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 07:45
Reply 


It is a good idea to learn to sharpen with a file. When I am cutting for some time, I normally touch up the chain every time I fill up with gas. I, too, always have few spare chains because when you rock up the chain (which you will) it is faster to change out the chain.

There are a number of safety classes that are very worthwhile. I like GOL (Game of Logging).

Don't forget the chainsaw chaps. I won't run a saw without them

OwenChristensen
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 07:56
Reply 


I do sharpening. I charge $6 for most any size, $10 if on the saw. Learn how to take off your bar and chain and clean out the saw dust. Sometimes I sharpen 100 chains a week with a grinding wheel, but my own I'd sharpen with a file. Files will make a better edge. Most new chains will come with directions on how to do it.

Owen

Rob_O
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 20:00
Reply 


Quoting: optimistic
I will give it a go and get another chain later.


Buy several of them, you will let it get too loose and spit it off the bar more than once before you learn to adjust them every time you fuel up

And while we're at it...

Around here used saws sell for nearly new prices. If things are the same there those $80 saws you see cost $100 or so new...

You really don't want a $100 chainsaw if you want to use it more than once, so buy an Echo or a Stihl or a Husqvarna

And then there's safety equipment... Chaps, woodsmans helmet and gloves ALWAYS!

That's about all I know about saws, hope it helps!

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 20:30
Reply 


Really good stuff here. Thanks for sharing. I'll look into a class. Seems cool. And I will look into a file sharpening method and another chain

Anonymous
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 20:32
Reply 


Expect to spend about $700 to do it right. That's for the saw and safety equipment. Buying a cheap used saw,no safety equip and no training is just asking for trouble.

Malamute
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 21:17
Reply 


I used to file sharpen my chains, but it's comparatively slow. I bought a small electric sharpener intended for field use. It hooks to a vehicle battery, or has a 110v power source. It sharpens chains much faster than hand filing them.

It isn't hard to sharpen a chain, with the guide on the file, its pretty simple and foolproof. I keep several chains around (5-6?). The local saw shop had a smokin deal on chains, so I bought several spares. I've found that the economy chains (I believe Orgeon) dont last as long as the Stihl chain.

Forestry Suppliers or Baileys have good gear for saws and woodcutting.

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 21:25
Reply 


I think I will buy another chain and have it sharpen if it is not so expensive near me.

Also, in regard to what anonymous said, is that asking for trouble? Do others think that?

fpw
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 21:29
Reply 


I would be hesitant to buy a 100 dollar saw. I purchased a used Husky that was 97cc; I gave 600 bucks and that was a great deal.

I have three saws, I use them for felling, timber framing, and log cabin building, each has it's use.

If I was to use only one for general use, I would make sure it was 60-70 cc and to get a Stihl, Husky, or Jonsered, I would have to plan on spending 300 dollars or so.

Nothing beats a reliable local saw shop if you are in the market for something used.

New 60-70 cc saws, you will be spending 500-600 dolllars.
Saws
Saws


fpw
Member
# Posted: 13 Feb 2013 21:31
Reply 


PS to get the most out of cutting, even a new chain needs a few strokes with the file.

Also, make sure the raker height is correct. If you are not pulling chips when you are cutting (i.e making sawdust), you rakers are too high.

sugarriver73
Member
# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 08:45
Reply 


I know locally $7 to sharpen a chain
I myself use something like this in between professional sharpening s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O6cXeCMS3s

I think the kit goes for $20..with replacement stones at like $5-7

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 08:59
Reply 


Quoting: Martian

Eventually you won't need the guide if you cut enough wood.


I grew up in a logging town, have 8 chainsaws, mostly Stihl and I still use a guide. Not to get my "angle" right, but the guide keeps the file from working "down" into the link. A touch up in the field with no guide is fine, but I'd always have a guide on hand.

PA_Bound
Member
# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 09:07 - Edited by: PA_Bound
Reply 


Opti... what length of saw are you looking at? I ask because, in my personal experience, smaller saws are easier and safer to learn with. I have 14" Craftsman, that I've had for close to 20 years. It's light, not too powerful, so it is a good saw to learn safety and other woodcutting skills as it's not difficult to use and easy to control. I also have a Husqvarna 455 with 24" bar that I purchased a few years ago. Using that saw is a whole different experience. It's heavier, powerful and fast- a combination that makes it more dangerous to use and control , and maybe not the best saw for a beginner. But if you are going to cut some serious wood, that is what you will be looking to use so get the safety gear and training before you start (a good idea with any saw, I will add). PS- I've been using chain saws all my life, but it was just after I bought it that the 455 put a nick in my chaps when my arms got tired and I failed to properly control it. But better the chaps, than my leg!

Rick004
Member
# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 09:45
Reply 


Just my 2cents but if You have hydro where you are an electric chainsaw is pretty cheap and safer if your just cutting up small stuff around the property ? I work as a mechanic with our municipality and we have 35 stihl chainsaws of different sizes that I maintain . If you are not mechanically inclined a used saw is not a good idea and even a new saw needs period maintenance and adjusting and cleaning to keep it running properly .

fpw
Member
# Posted: 14 Feb 2013 16:45
Reply 


If you opt for electric, keep in mind there is no clutch; therefore, chainsaw chaps don't provide protection.

TheWildMan
Member
# Posted: 15 Feb 2013 10:09
Reply 


if your a newb i reccomend you go to a dealer and have him switch out your chain with a safety chain. they cut a a slower rate but have extra metal fins that greatly reduce the kickback hazards. find a skilled person to show you how to use the saw and buy PPE (personal protective equipment, including saw proof pants, saw proof gloves, saw proof boots, and a hardhat with face protection and ear protection and safety glasses, this stuff does exist and does work, their full of kevlar threads that gum up the saw sprocket in less than a full rotation, stopping the saw before it can cut through, average cost of a pair of saw pants $100, average cost of chainsaw leg injury $10,000, thats an average of all ER records from cheapest to most expensive). as a certified logger and forester i cannot stress enough the value of training and proper safety equipment, before loggers started using this stuff we lost hundreds a year in the country, now we loose almost none, most inguries happen to the thigh (pants) top of foot (boots) or left hand (gloves) and eye injuries from high velocity chips. the gas saws make decible noise high enough to injur the human ear, plugs or other protection reduce it to safe levels.

this stuff won't be cheap (expect $500 for all of it), but i knew too many guys who tore open their leg or foot insisting it was for pussies (and spent thousands on medical bills and lost income while recovering) so must advise any beginner to do it right.

Moving Pictures
Member
# Posted: 16 Feb 2013 18:10
Reply 


I found that adapting to chainsaw use was relatively easy. Sharpening can be done by yourself, using a guide.

George
Member
# Posted: 17 Feb 2013 09:04 - Edited by: George
Reply 


I have always found...if your good judgement tells you something...listen to it.Use your safety gear.

Your reply
Bold Style  Italic Style  Underlined Style  Thumbnail Image Link  Large Image Link  URL Link           :) ;) :-( :confused: More smilies...

» Username  » Password 
Only registered users can post here. Please enter your login/password details before posting a message, or register here first.