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10sne1
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2013 14:50
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I am wishing to finish the inside of a 12x20 storage shed in Madison ga. In planning mode, set to start work late July. We will add electric, then insulate. I found a source locally for rough cut pine. I realize this green wood will shrink and twist and maybe crack. We plan to get 1 x 10 8 to 12 ft in length.
Are there any procedures or installation technique to help minimize these problems. We can use plywood or T1-11 but very heavy to install. We need to cover walls and ceiling. This shed is on a property that has a 30x 30 cabin with rough cut pine covering the inside. The cabin has shrinkage but it adds some character. The cabin in 5 years old. Thanks for your tips on using green wood.
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10sne1
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2013 14:52
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Ps, the shed is already in place, it was built on 24 inch centers. Thanks Tomm
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turkeyhunter
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2013 15:04
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I had a friend who did this in his cabin...he wired/insulated and covered the walls with ruff sawn yellow pine....he put black roofing felt ( tar paper) on walls ....and then nailed his boards in horizontal and fit as tight as he could . When they shrunk--the cracks and knot holes did not look bad, with the black background of the tar paper...hope this helps!!!
Working on cabin in July in south.....should be toasty!!!!
Summer is here!!!!!
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10sne1
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2013 15:47
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Thanks, good info. We will have the 30 x30 cabin with a/c to live. So not as bad as.it could be. The shed will be wired in a day, with a window A/C my brother is an electrician. Lucky me. Then insulation, so we should be cool in the shed by late second day. I will see what tar paper costs? Thanks. We stayed in the shed two weeks ago, cold front with 50 degree nights!
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fpw
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2013 22:33
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board and baton is designed to account for green wood. Nail up your boards say 6", then nail 3" batons over the joints (this covers the shrinkage). Put up my cabin ceiling with this technique. Works fine on walls or outside too.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 6 Jun 2013 17:51
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The long route would be to stack the wood out of the rain with stickers between so it can dry for a year, then cut a T+G or lapping profile into the edges to hide the joints. But I don't think you want to wait that long. Light gauge black paper is cheap and easy. That's what I plan to use on top of the weathered fence boards in my vaulted ceiling, no T+G.
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