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ErinsMom
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 18:35
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I have money in my back pocket to buy my first chainsaw. My brother is going to cut back some trees for me. What is everyone recommendations?
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PatrickH
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 19:03
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Stihl farmboss is a great all around workhorse of a saw not too heavy with tons of power really nice oil/gas caps and easy chain adjustment
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turkeyhunter
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 19:16
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Stihl or Echo ....
be careful with the new saw...
I used my Echo to cut a power pole this evening....good saws
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ErinsMom
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 19:53
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I told my husband I had taken money out of my savings to buy a saw. Only to find out, my husband was going to buy me one for Christmas and all my male friends told him NO.... Thought I would kill myself.
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naturelover66
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 20:19
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Erins Mom !!! Nice to see you here. What a thoughtful husband you have. Now start on that cabin !!!!! 
And tell him to be careful with that chainsaw.
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ErinsMom
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 21:05
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Naturelover,
Here is the problem: he will tell you that in spite of four college degrees, he can't screw in lightbulb!!!!! I will not allow him access to said chainsaw......
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hebegbz
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 21:54
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Make sure that you get a saw big enough for the job.
Too small and you will wear out both the saw and yourself before the job is done.
And there's no question, Stihl and Echo are the best. Take care of them and you'll never need another.
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Rick004
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 22:20
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Definately Stihl !!! And as others have said , be careful and get some training !!! Stihl has some excellent user videos on youtube but it does not beat some hands on training with someone who is knowledgable !!! Happy New Year !!
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spoofer
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 22:30
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stihl w/ a 16" bar
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old243
Member
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# Posted: 27 Dec 2013 22:42
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If you are starting out and will be doing some felling, limbing etc. I recommend taking a cutter safety course. I am in ontatio, they are available, talk to someone at forestry dept . I took mine many years ago, as I worked in forestry. This will give you proper saw handling, maintenance and safety. Will teach you proper methods of notching, wedging. Also get a good sharpening guage , and learn how to use it.
I have had good luck with stihl, The old 038 farm saw is a real workhorse. I was talking to a tree removal owner the other day, his impression of the new stihl easy start saws was not complimentary. I guess it all depends whether you are going to use your saw a lot, or just light trimming. Old 243
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2013 09:02
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Well, I guess everyone here likes Stihl, but I've been very happy with my little Husqvarna. Used it for 6 years now and it's still in good shape. I rebuilt the carburetor once because they have these little flexible diaphragms in them that wear out. The rebuild was easy to do. Replaced the muffler twice, they seem to not hold up well, but the basic engine still has good compression and responds well to careful adjustment.
If you are always using your chainsaw close to electrical outlets, electric chainsaws are easy to use and less expensive, easier to maintain.
I bought a pair of safety chaps when I started cutting and I'm glad I did. Aside from the safety issue, chaps protect your clothes from abuse when dragging brush around, and they help keep you warm in winter.
I wear steel toed boots. Most chain saw injuries are to the lower legs and feet.
I got a Poulan pole trimmer chain saw to cut high branches. Works, but poorly made. Poulan is definitely the bargain brand and you get what you pay for.
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fpw
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2013 12:11
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Husky, Shihl, or jonsered all nice saws. GOL (game of logging) has some very good classes on tree felling.
In my opinion....chaps and chainsaw boots are a must.
If you go electric chainsaw chaps wont stop the saw as they do with a gas powered saw.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2013 13:03
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As a person who grew up in a logging town, Stihl is the hot ticket. I currently own about 6 Stihls (018C, 026-X2 031AV 041AV Super) and an Echo. The finest saws on the planet. Parts anywhere and for many years after purchase. But key items for a good saw. Ultra reliable, with care, last saw you will ever need. 16-20 inch bar is ideal sizes. Anything under 16 unless you are just pruning makes you work too hard and over 20 inches, the saw works you too hard, but if you have hug timber to cut and plenty of it, it may be an option. But for the most part, 16-20 inches is ideal. My main saw I take to the cabin unit is my Stihl 026AV in 20 inch. I do not use the chain that came on it, I remove them and replace with a full competition super chisel bit (round file) and no safety links. It will drop through a log like a hot knife through butter and the chips are huge and pile up fast. Great for smoking meats too if its hardwoods. This chain is not for the weenies. It will amputate a limb so fast and even off, a slip against it, you are headed to the emergency room if you dont bleed to death first. 
Also, an area overlooked when sharpening is the filing of the rake or depth gauge. Very critical as the chain wears. If not done, the sharpest saw will produce chips like a termite would leave (fine powder)
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2013 13:26
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Husqvarna. We have 2 identical ones; one stays at our cabin the other in the back of the truck as we never know when a tree will be blown over across the forest roads we use for access.
It would be hard to g wrong with a Stihl, Husky or Echo. I would choose any of the three by which one has factory approved local repair shop services. If all three do then go by who makes you most comfortable when you visit their shop.
Bar size depends on what you are cutting. For us a 16" bar is sufficient.
Eye protection is a must; I have some screen ones I like as they do not fog up but do stop the chips. So are good ear muffs, and a hard hat if felling trees. We have separate items as well as one hard hat with a visor and muffs attached. Chaps are great for leg protection. In our area saw cuts to the legs are not uncommon at the nearby hospital.
Baileys has lots of woodsman gear.
And do NOT leave the saw, whatever brand, sit too long without being used and the fuel burned up and refreshed. My local saw shop gets a lot of business every fall from people who left their saws with fuel in the tank over the summer. Most of the year I use stabilizer in all mt saw gas just in case I forget that golden rule.
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old243
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2013 21:56
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good advice Don, I have started using premium gas in all my small engines. Our gas has ethanol , about 10%. breaks down real quick. also stabalizer , and a good 50-1 oil. Old 243
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Smawgunner
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2013 22:43
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Quoting: MtnDon And do NOT leave the saw, whatever brand, sit too long without being used and the fuel burned up and refreshed. My local saw shop gets a lot of business every fall from people who left their saws with fuel in the tank over the summer. Most of the year I use stabilizer in all mt saw gas just in case I forget that golden rule.
Amen to that MtnDon. I cannot tell you how many times I've had to take our snowblower in because I forgot to add Stabil in it. 
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 28 Dec 2013 23:39
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Quoting: old243 Our gas has ethanol
Most gas does.  I've posted this link before but it bears a repeat. Pure-Gas, no ethanol. Maybe you can find a source nearby. Avgas also is no ethanol. If you have a friendly fixed base operator nearby you can use it, it's also high octane. Then there is always the expensive but handy to have premix in qts. I keep one in the truck as that saw travels dry.
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Truecabin
Member
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# Posted: 29 Dec 2013 00:01
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hey guys its a woman asking about a saw and you forgot women dont have trouble with gas the ethanol problem is a mans problem
for your first saw get a small stihl like the 192 so easy to use easy to start and chain speed is a little slower
the 192 will cut bigger stuff than a beginner should be cutting and cut it easy too
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OwenChristensen
Member
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# Posted: 29 Dec 2013 09:08
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Don't buy a Chinese saw. McCulloch and some others are made there.
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BoatMan
Member
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# Posted: 29 Dec 2013 09:43 - Edited by: BoatMan
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I use 18 inch Poulans and have had good service.
I have spent the last (3) summers re-clearing land that had been originally cleared by bulldozer about a decade ago and then allowed to grow up in all many of brush so thick you couldn't walk through it.
I have been cutting-off trees up to 3 or 4 inches diameter, down close to the ground in the dirt and rocks- very tough service for a chain saw.
Don't forget bar oil, Spare chains and even a spare bar would not be a bad idea. I have, on more than one occasion, ruined a brand-new chain within (5) minutes of installing it, by hitting a rock I did not see.
Since I have to drive a long distance, and I don't want to waste a trip due to equipment failure, I always bring (2) 18" Poulons along with at least (2) spare chains and one spare bar. Also, a file & guide for sharpening.
I also bring along a 20 inch Poulon with a regular (not kick back resistant) chain- this is my "get-home" saw, in case a tree fails across the road out.
By the way, I have yet to need to use the spare 18 inch saw, nor the "get home" saw.
Stihls are nice (I have a Stihl trimmer), but I would not use an expensive Stilh down in the dirt & rocks when the Poulons do just fine.
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hueyjazz
Member
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# Posted: 29 Dec 2013 10:03
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Oh Boy
Asking men the best chainsaw!
Silly girl
You can't go wrong with Stihl but you will pay a premium price for the name. The Huskeys are excellent saws and I know some of the Japanese saws to be good too.
More than likely anything offer at the big box stores is light duty and geared to occasional home owner use. I found owning many acres of timber moved me into a industrial production. Figure out your brand and model and buy online or specialize store. It didn't take much to burn up a light duty saw that I had regulated to stump duty.
After brand you need to decide what you want the saw for. If you have never used a chainsaw before I would start light and small. A 14-16" bar is quick handy even if you advance to a lager saw. I found with the work I had to do I needed a 20" bar and a substantial power plant but it is heavy.
Safety is a prime consideration. Understanding the mechanics and physics of the saw as well as the tree. What causes a chainsaw to kickback, why dull chains are dangerous. Keeping the saw clean and maintained are vital to safe operation.
Then there is the tree. How to correctly fell a tree. Stresses in wood. The magic in how a 2" limb prevents a thousand pound tree from dropping and now what are you going to do.
I believe Truecabin has the right idea. Start small and build your confidence but know your limits. With practice comes skill.
I used a chainsaw for many years. I discovered when I went to clearing the woods around my pond that I knew nothing and needed to learn better and proper technical skills as well as advanced ones. I found that the wildcards what were causing my problems.
Trees with hollows, widow maker dead limbs high in standing timber. Dead trees that were already in precarious positions. Dead trees in precarious positions leaning towards my cabin needing to be redirected. I found I needed plastic wedges to prevent the bar from being pinched.
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ErinsMom
Member
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# Posted: 29 Dec 2013 13:18
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Thanks, so much for all the input. My brother who will be doing the most of the tree work wants a Husky; so, I think Husky it is.
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Coastal
Member
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# Posted: 29 Dec 2013 13:29
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Husky's rule. I've had a 351XP for 15 years, still starts 1st or second pull, and it's seen a lot of use.
One thing to watch out for though, the new low end huskys that pop up at big box stores, they may be orange, but I don't think they have near the quality of the real huskys. Do yourself a favor and go to a small chainsaw shop, the service will be worth it. ;)
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toofewweekends
Member
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2013 00:42
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We use a Stihl 211, 16 inch bar. Been a winner. I've liked the lighter weight on longer wood cutting days. Even did a little cutting of slabs with a small milling set up. A bit short on horsepower for that, but it made decent planks for a boardwalk. Most of our trees are under 20" diameter at the base, so the 16" bar works fine.
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2013 08:13 - Edited by: creeky
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I'm also a Stihl fan. Been using mine to cut firewood for three years putting nothing into it but oil and gas. oh. and an afternoon learning how to fix the trigger which seems designed for making me swear.
16" bar. And the more aggressive chain. forget what it's called.
forgot to mention: go to the small local chainsaw place to buy. you'll probably save money and the service will be there when you need it most.
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spoofer
Member
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2013 09:10
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STIHL 025 I have had this saw for 18 years and have cut at least 10 cords a year with it. Never had a problem, all original except the bar and chain.
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beachman
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2013 10:38
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I have had a Stihl with a 16in. bar for years and have used it a lot. Always reliable and works great. I agree with all of the Stabil comments. Definitely use this stuff - you cannot use too much. Keep the chain out of the dirt. A little dirt and grit can dull a chain quickly.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 1 Jan 2014 22:54
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Only thing I'd do different now if I was starting out again is to invest in a good chain sharpening tool and learn to use it. They charge 12 or 15 bucks to sharpen chains and they cut too much meat off the chisels when they do. Want something done right, do it yourself.
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old greybeard
Member
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# Posted: 2 Jan 2014 07:38 - Edited by: old greybeard
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Check out the Dolmar 510.
No matter what use safety gear, I was dropping trees for browse and next years firewood last weekend, cut into my chaps real good.
Stopped the saw on the spot, saved my leg from a major cut. I'll not cut without them, boots, ear and eye protection.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 2 Jan 2014 08:16
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bldginsp
I agree, although I would file not grind. I sharpen about fifty chains a week with a professional grinder. The big wheel helps to keep the tooth metal cooler. A small grinder carries too much heat back into the tooth and it looses temper. Poor temper means a dull chain. I do manage to do a good job sharpening with my grinder, but I need to go slow with a light touch. I think a non pro chain saw user should just have three chains and have someone good sharpen them. Most people screw up their chains.
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