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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / how did you insulate your floors? pics?
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bukhntr
Member
# Posted: 3 Jan 2014 15:20
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wondering how you all have insulated your floors and what mistakes/lessons you may have learned. My concerns are critters getting into fiberglass insulation and rot/mildew from the moisture trap between the subfloor and rigid foam. I really do not want to spend the $$$ for spray in foam which is probably the best method of course. if you have pics would be great

SubArcticGuy
Member
# Posted: 3 Jan 2014 15:41
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I used a 2x6 floor with Roxul batts and 1/4 inch plywood sheeting on the bottom. No vapour barrier...It is still under construction so I can't advise on how well it worked yet.

rockies
Member
# Posted: 3 Jan 2014 16:19
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Unfortunately, batt insulation is the worst type of insulation to install in a closed cavity, whether a wall, floor or ceiling. It does nothing to stop air currents within the cavity. Use a moisture barrier inside the cabin under the finish floor to prevent moisture from getting out through the cavity. Most people also think that because there is either drywall or wood nailed to the studs or joists (and even if they've used a continuous bead of adhesive to help "seal" the connections) that no wind can get into the cabin, but they forget that the difference in temperature between the indoor room and the outdoors will cause a convection loop to form inside the cavity. This will naturally allow any moisture that gets through the tiniest crack to condense on the coldest surface (the inside layer of the sheathing). The only way to prevent that is to warm up the exterior sheathing by placing rigid foam on the OUTSIDE of the sheathing. Use two 1 inch thick layers and offset the seams and tape them. You'll have to apply a fire safe material over the foam to protect it, but you'll prevent a lot of moisture, mold and rot issues inside the flooe cavity.

OwenChristensen
Member
# Posted: 3 Jan 2014 17:25
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I don't have insulation in my floor of my cabin. I have though, done it on many that I've built for others. When customers ask about it, I tell them that not to expect a warm floor just because it's insulated. Since heat rises, heating a cabin on Fri. night for the weekend will have a cold floor for quite a while anyway, insulated or not. I just have carpeting on mine and am quite happy with it.
For others I have tried fiberglass in between joists. I tried high density blue foam between two layers of plywood. If you go with the stiff foam between two layers of ply, make sure you use wood strips on the joints, other wise you'll get compression on the flooring seams. For that a flat 2x4 and 1 1/2'' foam works great. good luck and let us know how everything works out.

Owen

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 3 Jan 2014 17:45
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My insulation - http://www.amazon.com/UGG-Australia-Scuff-Slip-Shoes/dp/B00A3MX23C

hhhh

ugly but sure heats up my feet! (the wife bought it for me)

BaconCreek
Member
# Posted: 3 Jan 2014 22:05
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We used 1/4 inch galvanized hardware cloth on the underside of our floor framework. Inserted the insulation batts in between the joists and plywood on top. Duct taped the seams and tarped it until we could complete the rest. We have had no problems so far with this set up. It has been warm enough and no critters so far.

cabinbiscuits
Member
# Posted: 4 Jan 2014 15:54
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In our case our building (16x20) sits on top of pier supported girders. We framed the first floor out of 2x12's on top of the pier and girder foundation. Then we jacked one side of the floor framing up and sheathed the bottom side of the floor with pressure treated plywood. We set the first side down and repeated for the other side. I then crawled underneath and sealed the joints with a fiberglas mesh tape and polyurethane caulking. A little more jacking was required to seal the joints over top of the girders. I nailed the floor joists into the girders once I was sure I wouldn't have to pick it up again, and I bought steel brackets to strap the building down to the girders as well, although I still haven't put them on yet. At that point the top of the floor framing was still open and we easily insulated it with fiberglas batts in the joist spaces.

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