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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2015 21:34
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Those of you that have used T&G pine extensively for interior walls and ceilings...what are you using for a finish and how are you applying the finish? (spray/roll/brush)
This is what we intend to use, even making cabinet doors out of the same material.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2015 21:49
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Minwax Polycrylic, a water based absolutely clear, non yellowing finish. We used satin but it is available in gloss and semi-gloss. We like it as it adds no color tinge to the wood at all. Totally clear when dry; goes on milky.
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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2015 22:18
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How did you apply it Don?
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2015 22:48
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Forgot that....  brushed on with synthetic bristle brush; a very good one. Three coats most everywhere; 4 on the wall section. Sanded with 220 grit and hand sanding block, then cleaned with tack rag before final coat. It was also sanded smooth with a power pad sander before installation; cleaned with a tack cloth before the first clear coat.
IF I had wanted it stained I would have stained before installing the T&G on the ceiling or wall. That is to ensure there would be no telltale unstained portion of the tongue if the wood dried and shrunk. But because we used plain unstained pine we just applied the Polycrylic after the T&G was installed. Minwax recommends against spray application. I would not roller it on as it looks best when well brushed out.
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 7 Jan 2015 22:55
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rmak
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2015 07:48 - Edited by: rmak
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I used polyurethane for floors. It dries in about 3 hours so it just took a few days to apply coats and touch ups. BTW, I wanted the yellowing effect of the finish.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2015 08:05
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our last place Mrs Fishie wanted to white wash it. I was cringing as I love natural wood. But white oil paint, mixed very thin with paint thinner and applied quickly with a rag turned out beautifully. Not sure I have a pic on my computer, but I was sure I would hate it, and instead really liked it. Just that bit of white really brighted up the place, but you could still see the wood.
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FishHog
Member
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2015 08:09
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found one
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BaconCreek
Member
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2015 18:34
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We have the unfinished pine T&G on the floor but I have no idea how to get it clean enough to poly it. We are off grid and in the woods. Lots of dirt gets in the crevices of the boards. I think I would almost need a shop vac.
If it is never sealed what would happen?
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Don_P
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2015 22:11 - Edited by: Don_P
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It will become the color of the ground in dirt, things spilled on it will be immediately soaked up by the unsealed wood so stains will go deep quickly. Generations have grown up with such floors. a finish is easier to clean, looks cleaner and doesn't absorb spills as quickly so it buys you protection from some stains.
I'm partial to Waterlox as a wiping or brushing finish but have had good luck with minwax polycrylic as well
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 8 Jan 2015 23:19 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Quoting: BaconCreek If it is never sealed what would happen
The floor will develop "character".
If the character becomes too strong you can always apply cement board underlay and then apply ceramic tile. We have tile and never worry about tracking in the dirt as it washes up readily.
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Jim in NB
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2015 06:01
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I used polyurethane on my wood. If you are doing ceilings - I cannot recommend strongly enough that you finish them before you install them. Makes for a messy job if you finish them after you install them.
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rmak
Member
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# Posted: 9 Jan 2015 09:06
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Quoting: Jim in NB I used polyurethane on my wood. If you are doing ceilings - I cannot recommend strongly enough that you finish them before you install them. Makes for a messy job if you finish them after you install them.
Where were you 8 months ago Jim? painting polyurethane over your head is not a pleasant experience. It doesn't stay on the brush like house paint but seeps through the brush and dribbles. After that experience I just threw my shirt, pants and shoes away. Luckily, I had not installed the floor yet.
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bukhntr
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2015 22:47
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we used minwax stain and cabot polyurethane to finish. A friends husband that is a painter recommended a lambswool, real wool applicator for the stain. It really soaked up the stain and did not drip back on me. For the poly I used the foam cigar type rollers not much mess there either, but nothing was finished under me either.
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ClimberKev
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2015 09:46
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10 years ago I spent an entire winter sealing pine TG in my heated garage. I purchased 8 at a time (all that would fit in my work area) and stacked them up all winter. I used one coat of polyurethane on the back side and two coats on the front. I found that the disposable sponge "brushes" worked best. When spring came we hauled them to the cabin and slapped them up. I just added a second guest room inside a pole building and used Minwax Polycrylic for all the pine trim. This stuff is great!! Cleans up in water and I really like the clean non-yellow look. Only wish it was a little cheaper...$50 for a gallon.
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