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dkeehn
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2015 23:17
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I am new to here and was just wondering if anyone could answer a few questions. My family has 6 acres of wooded hunting land with a trailer and water and electric already installed. I want to build a 1 br 1 bath 20x30 house on the property for me to live in. I am thinking I could do the whole thing for around $30000 and that is with a septic system installed, concrete slab foundation and doing most of the work myself. Anyone think this would be an accurate estimate? The hardwood floors would be from red pine logs already on the property, along with the cabinets etc.
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Nirky
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2015 23:45 - Edited by: Nirky
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This thread might answer some of your questions.
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chasemichelle2014
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2015 09:41
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Hello Dkeehn,
It is possible to build for that price, esp. if your doing most of the work yourself and depending on how well you shop for material. You mention you have logs available for these items. Do you have a sawmill or will you be having someone mill these logs.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2015 17:28
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That is the size of my cabin and about what I spent.Plenty of room for 2 of us.Easy to heat and take care of.My only suggestion,don't build on a concrete slab if you are in a cold weather climate.That floor stay's mighty cold on your feet no matter how well you heat it.
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beachman
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# Posted: 13 Feb 2015 17:31
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Like any home/cottage construction, add 25% to catch all of the overruns and unknowns. 40k should do it. What about all the appliances and fixtures?
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dkeehn
Member
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# Posted: 15 Feb 2015 22:27
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Thanks for the replies. What would you suggest building on instead of a concrete slab??
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OwenChristensen
Member
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# Posted: 15 Feb 2015 23:25
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I know I shouldn't say anything, but you don't get hardwood from pine.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2015 01:18
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LOL, I bit mine. But to be a smart alek, red pine is the only hard pine in the western hemisphere, a sylvestris 
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dkeehn
Member
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# Posted: 16 Feb 2015 19:55
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Lol you know what I mean
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Don_P
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# Posted: 17 Feb 2015 11:29
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I'm not opposed to a slab but I would insulate it, including underneath and the edges, and probably install radiant tubing if AC is not needed. We rarely lose drain plumbing and supply can run from above or in the walls. A large mass can take awhile to warm up so if it is a weekend place that you will arrive to cold in the winter, a slab is going to be cold for a long time. If the stays are more extended then a large mass acts like a thermal flywheel, storing and releasing heat slowly so it moderates day to night temperature swings.
Red pine would be a softish but fine floor or panelling, although with a slab in a hard use cabin I'd stain the slab or use tile for the floor. With any of the pines if you can get it up to 160 to 180 degrees for a period at the end of drying it will help set the pitch, with just air drying the pitch tends to bleed every time the wood sees a new high temperature. I worked on an old log cabin from the 1840's and had to replace the upper floor. The joists were air dried pine, but about 150 years old and had seen plenty of wood fired drying conditions. I reused the wood for trim. One stick that I had ripped down was sitting on the rock wall beside me in the sun at lunch one day. It began beading up resin as the fresh cut warmed in the sun. Even after all that time the pitch was still not "set" to a very high temperature and could flow when it saw a new heat. Anyway, the hottest cook you can manage at the end of drying helps.
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