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Small Cabin Forum / Properties / which stihl for firewood/clearing jobs on small acreage
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black_raven
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 20:24
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HI all
I have just under 2 acres and need to get a chainsaw for firewood and some small clearing jobs. The guy at the shop tried to sell me a stihl ms271 which i think is kind of overkill at almost $600. It will be my first chainsaw and i was hoping one of the smaller ones like the 180 would be good enough or maybe the MS 250? I know it's plastic instead of metal case etc. but for such a small acreage shouldn't it be good enough? I'm thinking of any of those with 16" bar.

LoonWhisperer
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 20:49
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I'm doing just fine with my MS180. Cleaned up a lot of deadfall with that little guy. Should be fine for your application I would think.

black_raven
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 20:56
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Thanks LoonWhisperer
I would also be using it to fell some trees that are around 8 to 10 inches wide and clean up deadfall that is up to around 14 inches wide. do you think that'll be ok? I'll also be gettin all the usual safety gear and get my buddy to show me the ins'n'outs

LoonWhisperer
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 21:25 - Edited by: LoonWhisperer
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No problem!

you should be good to go at 8-10". I've done a fair bit in that range. If you are doing a lot in the 14" range you may want to move up a model or two.

Good call on the safety gear... I grabbed the essentials as well. And one item I have found particularly handy is this guy:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/yardworks-quickfire-sawhorse-0603889p.html#.Vh

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 21:44 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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I'd go no less than 16", my personal preference is 20" bar. I'd of picked the MS291.

I toss the std chain and install the full competition chisel bit chain made by Oregon.

I have a Stihl 018C, 026 and an 041 Super AV

pash
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 21:51
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I run a husky 371 and a stihl 290 every weekend. But at my dads he has a stihl 250, and it does ok with an oregon chain. But put a RS (rapid super) chain on it and will cut anything i can bury a bar in. And dad has 100 acres and there hasn't been a job ive run into there where i have needed my bigger saws. So for a first saw I would say its great, and stay away from the RS chain untill you know how to handle the saw. For brush clearing you will hate the chain tightening system on the 180. Those toolless tightening systems work ok for bucking firewood but put it sideways into the brush and the chain is coming off about half the time. Good Luck

old243
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2015 22:01
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I guess it depends , how much saw you are capable of handling . I have an o36 stihl, it is old and has cut a mountain of wood. The problem is I am no longer able to put it through its paces like I used to. I would recommend a 16 inch bar. I like a saw with the larger 3/8 chain, rather than the mini chain on the real small saws. I tried a o26 last winter, and liked it but stayed with the bigger saw. A stihl dealer friend recommended staying with the professional line of stihl . Rather than the easy start hobby saws. He told me in the long run I wouldn't be happy with them. A good saw is expensive, but if it is well maintained will last a long time, my stihl is close to 30 years old , but still cuts upward of 20 cords a year.old243

toofewweekends
Member
# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 01:14
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I use a 211 which has been good for trees your size, firewood bucking, and a few slabs cut for a boardwalk. 16" bar. There are times I'd like larger but most times the light weight makes up for that.

Martian
Member
# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 07:05
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I have the MS250 Easy Start, and I love it! With the 18" bar, it cuts anything I need to cut. Had it for 4 years now.

Don_P
Member
# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 08:11 - Edited by: Don_P
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Mine is an old 034 with a 16" bar running 3/8 full chisel chain. We cleared a lot a few months ago and had several of the newer ms saws with what I would call a safety chain. Mine was picked up most often. The safety chain is much better if you stick the upper nose where you shouldn't, I used them for a long time while building cabins.

The longer the bar, the more teeth to sharpen, the more it'll find unintended stuff to hit, and the more leverage it has against you in a kickback.

black_raven
Member
# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 10:28
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Thanks for the feedback...i'm thinking i'm leaning towards the 250 then with a 16" bar. If i need anything bigger dropped my neighbour said he can do it for me so that should be good.

creeky
Member
# Posted: 9 Oct 2015 14:42
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stihl 170 for me. came with 16" bar and an upgraded chain as I bought it at a farmer store.

it has more than enough power for me. plus i got it on sale.

sure. sometimes you have to sit there for a bit while the chainsaw does the work. i use it 40 or 50 hours a year clearing brush and mostly cutting the firewood I use.

for the amount I use it. why spend more? that 200 bucks to go up a model. not worth it for me.

DaveBell
Moderator
# Posted: 10 Oct 2015 05:12
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The ethanol in the gasoline has been eating my carb seals on my 440 according to my Stihl tech. I have been buying the Stihl gas mix in a can since. Expensive. Just replaced the carb on the Stihl string trimmer. My friend down in Georgia told me there are gas stations that sell real gas. But none are close.

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 10 Oct 2015 10:41
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Dave, go to an airport, get avgas, its alcohol free too.

Dave, use the ethanol fuel all year long and before pickling it for winter, run the last of the ethanol out or dump it out, fill it up with the spendy canned gas. You can get that nice canned race gas from Home Depot in straight, 40 or 50:1 mix, its close to $5 a liter. But be good fuel for winter/long term storage. Just use it for the winter storage to save some $$$

bobrok
Member
# Posted: 10 Oct 2015 10:56
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Also check with any marinas if you are near water.
Where I am they all sell ethanol free and have huge signs advertising this.

Just
Member
# Posted: 10 Oct 2015 11:11
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Quoting: black_raven
I'll also be gettin all the usual safety gear and get my buddy to show me the ins'n'outs

Most if not all the collages in Ontario offer a 1 day chain saw course . Its law in Ontario that if you put a saw in another mans hand he must have taken the course. Might be worth a day!!

creeky
Member
# Posted: 10 Oct 2015 12:07 - Edited by: creeky
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here in Canada you can buy hi-test. it usually comes ethanol free. that's what I use.

Just. thx. second last tree I fell. (also probably the second tree I ever fell). trapped my chainsaw. I went by the pictures online. I put some wedges into it. three days later we had a west wind and blew the tree over. got my chainsaw back.

i will be calling the local college. hour drive but sounds well worthwhile.

btw. my stihl is 4 years old now. this is timely (20 minutes ago): first time this year starting to cut up some dead fall maple branches for the fall woodstove. started on the 15th pull. couple more goes to get er warmed up. and away I went. stored since last winter with 2 year old gas. that stihl oil/stabilizer does good.

black_raven
Member
# Posted: 10 Oct 2015 19:27
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Sounds great creeky. Yeah i think with the limited use I will have, i suspect I'll use the Stihl gas in a can.

old243
Member
# Posted: 11 Oct 2015 12:47
Reply 


Sometimes a cutter course can be organized, through a farmers coop or a chain saw dealer. Also any municipality have to have all their employees certified before they can use a saw. Call around and express interest they will include you on their next course. I took mine a long time ago. Course included chain saw maintenance, sharpening, proper safety gear.This was done inside. Then a full day in the bush actually felling, bucking , tree identification, problem, unsafe trees etc. It can be dangerous, so don't think you can't learn something new. old243

DaveBell
Moderator
# Posted: 13 Oct 2015 16:37 - Edited by: DaveBell
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Picked up the Stihl trimmer with new carb today. Friggin ethanol.

Also had two chains sharpened. They have an automated machine to do it. That was worth it ($12.00/ea.) I can't remember what I paid for a 32" chain, but at some point a new chain would be more cost effective than resharpening.

I asked the guy how many times a chain can be resharpened? He said about eight times depending on how many rocks you hit.

Noticed the MS250 is on sale at dealers for $299.00, don't know for how long.

Thanks guys for the info on the AvGas and Marina gas. I found the Stihl gas in a gallon size at Ace Hardware a couple of months ago. Don't know if i'll do enough cutting anymore to do premix.

As I get older, my 440 with 32" bar seems to be getting heavier. The head weight is almost 15 Lbs. I may have to get one of those MS250 for the average cutting and save the big hoss for the big felling and cutting.

I think one could use a smaller mid range saw for most things, using creative cutting techniques for larger interests.

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 13 Oct 2015 22:01 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply 


Quoting: creeky
here in Canada you can buy hi-test. it usually comes ethanol free. that's what I use.



Creeky, lots of ethanol free gas in Canada at these stations:

All Canada: Shell V-Power, Esso premium, MacEwen premium
Western Canada: CO-OP premium
New Brunswick, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, PEI: all premium grade gasoline
British Columbia: Chevron 94
Ontario: Costco 91; Canadian Tire 91; Ultramar 91

If you live in Alaska, there is no such thing as gas with alcohol in it, its all ethanol free in the entire state of Alaska.

And for these rest of you, check your area for ethanol free gas at: www.pure-gas.org

black_raven
Member
# Posted: 24 Oct 2015 22:30
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I got the ms250 today with 18 inch bar. Can't wait to use it!

Don_P
Member
# Posted: 25 Oct 2015 10:25
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Someone mentioned sharpening above and that having the shop do them allows about 8 sharpenings. By hand I sharpened mine 4 times the other day while getting up firewood, that chain is about done but has hundreds of light field sharpenings on it and several file out the rock dings swearathons.

The automatic chain sharpeners I've seen leave a different profile on the chain than a file... once the shop sharpens it it is darn near impossible to hand file it again without major filing to establish the round file profile. When I'm working in the field taking out the file between tanks or whenever it feels like it needs it and giving the chain a few strokes really makes a difference. If you are waiting for it to get bad enough to take in you'll be running dull chain a good bit of the time. I do use a dremel tool in the shop with a chainsaw stone in it that is the same shape as the file, it can do major grinding when I try to cut a groove in granite or drive nails with the chainsaw.
I usually pick up a couple of files with each new chain, at some point I'll saturate the farm and there will always be one at hand, right beside one of hundreds of screwdrivers that live here somewhere.

Just
Member
# Posted: 25 Oct 2015 10:57
Reply 


It is also well worth buying a new file often , they work much better the newer they are..

NorthRick
Member
# Posted: 25 Oct 2015 12:21
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Quoting: DaveBell
Also had two chains sharpened. They have an automated machine to do it. That was worth it ($12.00/ea.) I can't remember what I paid for a 32" chain, but at some point a new chain would be more cost effective than resharpening. I asked the guy how many times a chain can be resharpened? He said about eight times depending on how many rocks you hit.


I'm with Don P, I sharpen my chains by hand with a file. Do it on a regular basis and your chain always throws chips. Files are relatively cheap and with practice it doesn't take too long. I don't know exactly how many times you can hand sharpen a chain but its a lot.

beachman
Member
# Posted: 25 Oct 2015 12:42
Reply 


I have had an MS260 for about 10 years and it has always worked great. Don P and North Rick are right on with the sharpening. The saw should always throw chips, not dust. You will get the hang of hand sharpening after a short while. Get a file holder, it will be a lot easier on the hands.

OutdoorFanatic
Member
# Posted: 25 Oct 2015 21:01 - Edited by: OutdoorFanatic
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Stihl and Husky are the best but if your looking to save money and wont be using it every day for years I'd go with a good ole Poulan Pro 16" 0r 18" I've had mine for 12 years and cut and cleared a hell of a lot of trees with it. My buddy has had his 16" poulan for 15 years and uses it all the time.
Only problem I had was that I recently rebuilt the carb because it was flooding out. Dirty gas can. Always wipe your can off before fueling the saw.

Anyway. Tractor supply has the 18" Poulan on sale, $129

black_raven
Member
# Posted: 25 Oct 2015 22:57
Reply 


Thanks all I'll look into getting a file and guide.

DaveBell
Moderator
# Posted: 25 Oct 2015 23:28 - Edited by: DaveBell
Reply 


Touch up in the field with round filing is only good for so long then you need to include flat filing the top plate and depth gauge which I've done in the field also when sharpening the side plate still doesn't render chips. But after so many filings of the top plate, side plate, and depth gauge, I can tell I'm only getting so many chips because my eyes are not as calibrated as an automated sharpener. The eight sharpenings the tech mentioned may include top plate, side plate, and depth gauge to where the chain has had so much metal taken off it may have reached a point of safety and diminishing returns.

DaveBell
Moderator
# Posted: 26 Oct 2015 20:53
Reply 


Some cutting tips.

When cutting limbs off of live trees that you want to save, do not cut the limb collar.

When cutting limbs jammed into the ground or that look under pressure bent by the ground, on a fallen tree, make several (6-8) small cuts 1/3 the way through around the limb to reduce pressure. (you will see the limb snap close on a cut when the pressure is relieved) If you make one initial cut through, you could end up in the hospital with severe issues when that limb smacks you into next week.

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