Malamute
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# Posted: 6 Feb 2017 12:04 - Edited by: Malamute
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Ive used both newer and older drawknives, I found the older ones easier to use and much easier to sharpen really well.
I was using my knives with the flat side down, nobody told me any different. A guy stopped by to see a cabin I was building, hed built 66 cabins at that point. I asked him how he sharpened his drawknives, as I was having a heck of a time actually getting them truly sharp. He said "show me how you use it". I did, he then said "turn it over, use the bevel side as the cutting side, like a wood chisel". The wear pattern if using the flat side down makes a very shallow U shape in the blade. Its extremely hard to properly sharpen. Once I got that cleaned up fairly well and only used the knife bevel side down, I found I could sharpen my knife literally shaving sharp in 5 minutes or so, rather than the frustrating hour or more of trying to clean up that much metal. Ive loaned my knives to a couple people, with strict instructions to ONLY use it bevel side down. They came back and I could instantly well they DIDNT use it the way I told them. Much PO-ed, and much work to fix what they did to my knife. I don't loan drawknives any more. I may loan one of my more modern ones, but still, its a pain in the behind to try to fix them once somebody screws them up.
The blade isn't sharpened like some knives, with a secondary bevel besides the primary shape of the blade, it should be sharpened using only the flat back side and the bevel angle, like a properly sharpened wood chisel is sharpened. I stopped sharpening when the edge would shave the hair on my arm. When the knife was used properly, it took maybe 5 minutes or so to get it that sharp with a two sided round stone.
Many use a hacking motion with their arms, I fond the work went quicker, with less effort if I got the logs to a height I could just straddle, then leaned forward, arms extended, them bit the blade into the wood, and leaned back. I used some arm motion, but much of it was body. I peeled 2-3 ft strips each stroke on open logs. around knots it takes a little more concerted effort. A little sideways stroke when pulling also helps cut, like starting with the right 1/3 of the blade, then ending up on the left 1/3 at the end of the stroke.
Most older knives have the handles too close together, I heated mine up with a welding torch and bent them outwards. Keeps your knuckles from hitting the log and allows work on larger logs.
If you take a piece of PVC pipe, I think 3/4 works, and run it on a table saw to groove one side, it snaps onto the blade nicely to protect it. May need to make more than one pass for thicker blades. I like the older thin blades though, they cut really nicely compared to the newer stuff Ive used. Newer knives seem to have really blunt cutting bevels. After using a really sharp old knife, the newer ones seem like crude hacking instruments.
One of my older knives had folding handles. I opened them up a bit and welded them in place to give the correct angle for larger logs. I also use them slightly angled to the log for most strokes, along with the slight sideways slicing motion it seems to help cut well. Not sure what newer knives cost nowadays, but my older ones were less money and far better tools in every way I could tell.
I suppose a shovel would work for knocking loose bark off, but not sure how it could cut the wood like a good knife can. If you find a pocket of pine pitch in the log, using the knife to work the area down until the pitch pocket is gone is not a bit deal. A drawknife leaves the surface of the wood fairly smooth, with flat facets from each stroke. Nothing else leaves the same effect on a log, and makes for interesting shading effects in various lighting. The surface is somewhat compressed also, I think it helps resist moisture to a small degree. I recall seeing info about axe cut log ends on historical buildings, they lasted over the centuries much better than saw cut log ends. The conclusion was that the compression of the wood from the axe cut played a part. Drawknives don't do it to the same degree as an axe, but its not the same as wood cut in other ways. I, for one, really like seeing hand worked logs in my cabins. Hand peeled logs look nicer, and remind one of the hand work they have in the job. Its hard work, but after you adapt to it, its not too bad. I had helpers quit after a few hours, and I had a high school girl that could go 6 hrs at a stretch when first starting out without drama. Technique helps with that I think.
Newer type knives on the top. I didnt like how thick the blades were and the steep, blunt bevel. I changed the angle of the bevel on them, and thinned one down about 1/3, it made it easier to use and easier to sharpen. It still wasn't the equal of the older knives.
A google search for "antique draw knife for sale" turned up a wide variety of prices, most pretty affordable, and I believe, most less than new ones. I think I paid about $40 each for both of my better old ones from a guy that sells antiques. New ones at the time were about $65 to $125 I believe.
Newer and older type drawknives
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