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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Can I get away without using a window header?
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doodledawn
Member
# Posted: 23 Dec 2019 18:40
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I am rebuilding an old cabin- so far I have added a pony wall to raise the roof height and added a gambrel metal roof and I am now starting to replace/move some windows. Because the old design had a double top plate, once I added the wall extension, there is now a triple plate at the 8 foot mark. I am wondering if I can get away with attaching my 37"x 81" triple pane directly to the bottom of the triple plate without putting in a header. From what I understand, the header is to distribute weight around the window, which I feel like the triple plate can pull off. The width of the wall is 14" (see pic below). Thoughts?
MVIMG_20191020_15550.jpg
MVIMG_20191020_15550.jpg


darz5150
Member
# Posted: 23 Dec 2019 21:18
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Are there rafters bearing down above the window spot? Or is it on the end of the building?

ICC
Member
# Posted: 23 Dec 2019 21:55 - Edited by: ICC
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A triple layer like you have, with the 2x's laid flat is not as sturdy, not as stiff as you might think. They still flex or bow a little under load, one 2x slipping over the other, sorta like the pages in a book. On edge they are much stiffer.

So Darz asked the important question. Is that a gable end wall or a side wall that supports rafters or trusses? If a gable end wall, you don't need a header at all. If a load bearing side wall then you may not have sufficient stiffness. More info such as snow load would be needed.

doodledawn
Member
# Posted: 23 Dec 2019 23:57
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A
Quoting: darz5150
Are there rafters bearing down above the window spot? Or is it on the end of the building


It is on the end wall with no rafter weight.

Quoting: ICC
If a gable end wall, you don't need a header at all.

Good to know! I am definitely learning as I go on this project, but this forum has been so helpful.

morock
Member
# Posted: 24 Dec 2019 09:48
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But, just to be safe, leave a 1/2 inch of space at the top and make your connections only to the sides and bottom. Then fill the 1/2 with bat type insulation NOT spray foam. This technique is used when installing windows into log walls.

ICC
Member
# Posted: 24 Dec 2019 10:09
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Yes, there should be clearance around the sides and top of the window unit. The window should sit on a sloped to the outside pan.

There is a special grade of spray foam for window and door use. It expands less and does not harden. The regular foam expands enough to deform frames. The D&W foam is better than bat type insulation because many folks stuff in too much reducing the insulating effect. The D&W foam is "just right".

If the window has flanges or fins, as in a window made for new construction, follow the manufacturers instructions for fastener placement.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 25 Dec 2019 20:00
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Personally on a gavel end or not if you can make a header fit under the wall top plate I would put a header in. There's no quick fix for sagging framing.

I under stand that at 81in tall you have a huge window but you still do have room for a header. Looks like your doing at least 2x6 walls too?

doodledawn
Member
# Posted: 26 Dec 2019 00:32
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Yep, 2x6 walls. The reason I was trying to avoid a header was to keep the window from being too close to the floor and not break through the support of the triple plate. I am sourcing most of my materials second hand and I couldn't turn down the 81" window at $150. It is brand new, just a mis-size I got from a contractor.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 26 Dec 2019 06:59
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You have a top plate of triple 2x6? That's a hefty top plate for a non load bearing wall. I would still double or triple up the studs next to the window. Screw and glue the top plate together to hopefully keep it from sagging.

ICC
Member
# Posted: 26 Dec 2019 10:07 - Edited by: ICC
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code page

It appears that you added no more than 24" above the existing plates? If so you're good to go.

Sure you can do better than code and use a header, but you are already better than code with the top plates you have. No need for jack studs or cripples either.

Technically the window you are wanting to install must be tempered glass if the lower edge is 18" or less above the floor.

doodledawn
Member
# Posted: 30 Dec 2019 11:59
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Thanks for the link @ICC - very helpful!

@Brettny I had to build the pony walls offsite so adding them thickened up the the double top plate to a triple.

The whole cabin started as a 14x18 box with a standard gable roof, which I am converting to a gambrel/cathedral ceiling with an overhang loft over the porch. It probably would have been easier to start from scratch, but the building has sentimental value. I will get going on the window framing next weekend.

Happy New Year!

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