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scout100
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2011 19:10 - Edited by: scout100
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Most guys on here like wood.. I do.. Most of my camp furniture is rustic and made from Oak and Maple. Never polyurethaned. Always OILED.. First, I started using Teak and Tung Oil, but then that got pricey.. So I switched to Boiled Linseed Oil... Now, that is $24 a gallon.. I wondered about Canola Oil or some of these Vegetable oils.. Through some research I learned that in order to use any oil for the preservation or water repellent of wood, you have to use a drying oil.. Well, A little more research and I found out Canola, Olive, Palm, Safflower, are not drying OILs , but SOYBEAN OIL is.. Vegetable OIL is Soybean OIL.. Soybean oil is a drying oil. With coupon I bought a gallon of Wesson Vegetable oil ( 100% Soybean ) today for $6.00. Now, I also wanted to add that one of the things that help speed up the drying process is to boil the oil or bring it to its smoke point, hence the name " Boiled Linseed Oil " So, I will try and bring this soy up to its smoke point and use it on my wooden canoe and report back.. If anyone knows anything about this topic, input is appreciated. I think I'm onto a cheap green alternative to Tung Oil
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nathanprincipe
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2011 22:04
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sounds cool, report back!
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Just
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2011 22:14
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My can of tung oil is almost gone, been looking for a sale, let us know!!
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turkeyhunter
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2011 22:14 - Edited by: turkeyhunter
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interesting for sure, let us now how it works out............
about 7 years ago, i was turkey hunting with a friend in east TN, he knew a couple who lived off grid, we rode up to they cabin after our hunt, the guy was a master craftsman with cedar, and he took me on a tour of their cabin...........amazing............he showed me what he used on all his wood products, Howards feed and wax http://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounces/dp/B001BKQYGW
woks great i buy it at home depot....... i had never heard of it until he showed me some of his furniture he built, and whole cedar log posts inside their cabin, he had done with this product.
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Just
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2011 22:39
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I'v used that on wood floors, works well but again it.s high bucks up here in Can.. I like it cause it comes in different colours..
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Jerry
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# Posted: 25 Mar 2011 23:59
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Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to try that Howards product. I've used another Howards wax with an orange scent. Smells great when you apply it, but the smell fades quickly.
I go to my local hazardous materials collection shed, and they often have half full cans of things like boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or paint thinner. I even find Watco Oil. It's all free, so that's a good route to go.
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scout100
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# Posted: 26 Mar 2011 13:05
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SOYBEAN OIL TEST AS A WOOD PRESERVER / REPELLANT-
Well, this morning it was 32 degrees and very dry here. ( weather conditions ) I got the oil out and set up for 2 tests. Two 4 OZ tests. One just plain oil and the other salted oil. ( I read that adding salt helps the oil to dry faster. I then went ahead and boiled the oil until it came to smoke point. I quickly removed the saucepans and poured the hot oil on 1 side of the canoe and poured the salty oil on the other side of the canoe. Both absorbed in very fast and so far its still oily to the touch. I also left a small amount of the oil in a ceramic dish to watch the process more closely and see that it actually coagulates and tacks up. I am hoping for this to harden up within a reasonable amount of time - 4 or 5 days would be nice. If coagulation doesnt take place for upwards of 2 weeks that is fine with me. It just means, I do my woods right before I shut camp down for the winter. All oils oxidze. The Drying oils supposedly dry faster. Soybean oil is in fact a drying oil, just like teak, tung, or linseed oil. I'll post pictures later. Thanks for the interest.
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teakboat
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# Posted: 27 Mar 2011 17:47
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This is interesting to me, we import and often refinish teak outdoor furniture. I buy a lot of boiled linseed oil, that stuff has gotten very expensive, I used to get it for $17 a gallon, lately around $24 a gallon. I mix it with (real) turpentine and spray it on the furniture. It dries nice and hard like a natural polymer in a few minutes. I wish I knew of a cheaper alternative to the boiled linseed oil.
But days rather than minutes drying time is not going to work, I am afraid.
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scout100
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# Posted: 2 Apr 2011 14:29
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1 WEEK FOLLOW-UP:
Well, here it is a week later and the oil has absorbed into the boat very well. If you touch either side of the boat your finger becomes damp or stained with oil. Not so much that its dripping but enough that you could leave a nice finger print on a piece of glass. So, the oil has def not tacked up after 1 week. The ceramic dish oil has not tacked up or shelled over either. Weather condtions have been for the most part cold and dry. I am not going to call this a FAIL yet.. Next post will be a 1 month follow up..
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bennycat
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# Posted: 22 Nov 2011 20:16
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I'm in the process of trying out canola oil on some Danish teak furniture from back in the day. (I'm also from back in the day.)
I decided to try it on the arms of two dining room chairs. They'd gotten dry and exhausted looking and other oils had not cured the problem. They would look fine for a couple of weeks and then start looking dry again. (The chairs live in a very dry climate.) I read recently that teak is weather resistant because it is naturally oily wood and reasoned that canola is a plant oil and teak is a plant, so . . .
I applied it liberally, let it soak in for about an hour, then wiped it, waited another hour and rubbed it down. So far so good. The arms aren't greasy. We'll see how they look in two weeks.
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steveqvs
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2011 17:28
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Be careful... veg oils can go rancid.... you might have a foul smelling chair... not sure about canola oil.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2011 21:25
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We are on the same page with that steveqvs. I would not use cooking oil on any of the items listed above.
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Martian
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2011 06:34
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Bennycat, If those chairs sit where sunlight can get to them, the surface wood may be UV damaged to the point they need sanding to expose good wood.
Tom
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steveqvs
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2011 18:48 - Edited by: steveqvs
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We use Penofin. Its expensive and somewhat hard to find but it is excellent. We use it on the front porch floor on our house and it really looks good. This year I put it on our tired teak bench and it really brought out color...
http://www.penofin.com/products.shtml
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2013 19:47
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I have 3 antique rocking chairs that where in a shed for over 3 years with out air and living in Florida its hot. They looked so bad, white and dried out. I use so many oils on them nothing worked I was sick. Then I tried canola oil and they have looked nice for the 3 months help they stay like this.
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2013 20:52
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Any update on the experiment?
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BaconCreek
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# Posted: 28 Feb 2013 08:23
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Vegetable oil=rancid smell. What about mineral oil?
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bobbotron
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# Posted: 28 Feb 2013 10:45 - Edited by: bobbotron
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Mineral oil isn't a drying oil, but would provide some wood protection.
Tung oil is better for outdoors than BLO, BLO can attract mildew...
Also, when applying any oil, it's a lot easier to thin it 50/50 with mineral spirits, and don't apply too thick so it can dry out and not get thick spots. I love oil finishes! 
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iammyowntroublemaker
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# Posted: 28 Feb 2013 11:56
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for those interested in the healthy organic approach:
http://www.solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm
this company makes some fantastic products...and the fallun red colour is just begging for some nice cabins out there...
http://www.solventfreepaint.com/falun-red-paint.htm
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bobbotron
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2013 13:24
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I was going to mention that oil but found it super hard to actually purchase. I'd love to try some, seems like cool stuff. I know that company is all about no solvents, which is admirable and a great idea in lots of situation but I think thinning out oil makes for a much easier job of application!
I just re-tung oiled some cutting boards with straight, unpolymerized tung oil (didn't use mineral spirits because it's a cutting board, I realize many would say it's ok as it will evaporate.) There's a small crack in the board, I'm still getting mild oil seepage out of the crack two days later, this kind of thing would be much less of an issue with thinned oil.
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scout100
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# Posted: 3 Dec 2013 17:06
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To my surprise, I never updated this post. This experiment was a success! It took about 2 months for the oil to tack up and tack up it did. I was left with a nice hard shell on the canoe I built. It repelled water just fine. IMHO, boiled linseed oil and boiled soybean oil are one in the same but the latter is a whole lot less expensive.
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creeky
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# Posted: 3 Dec 2013 18:08
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i've got a varied bunch of outdoor chairs and a four teak tables that are looking weary. soybean oil ... on the hunt list for spring.
any update on the salty vs non salt part of the test?
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 4 Dec 2013 08:27
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Metallic salts are added to linseed oil varnish mixtures to increase the drying rate. I wonder if table salt does the same thing.
Oil finishes in general don't provide a great deal of water protection, but you seem to have gotten some on the canoe.
Some woodworkers mix polyurethane with linseed or other oil finishes to make a hand rubbed finish with a bit more protection.
Be careful buying 'tung' oil. Some such advertised products are either not tung oil at all, or very low amounts of it in the mix.
The experiment with soy oil wil be interesting to see on the long term, but I bet it's going to be hard to beat the old tried and true linseed.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 4 Dec 2013 09:20
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Quoting: scout100 It took about 2 months for the oil to tack up and tack up it did.
You have a great deal more patience than I. No way I'd be happy with that sort of performance no matter the low cost.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 4 Dec 2013 14:26
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Boiled Linseed Oil is not actually boiled. It should be called sorta boiled, or almost boiled but not really. It is heated and then chemicals are added to the oil to enhance the speed of drying and the formation of the hard protective skin. So heating soy or other oils, even boiling likely does not help a lot. Reference here
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Most tung oils sold today are not pure tung oil. Most have other oils and additives like mineral spirits added that make them more like a wiping varnish than a true oil finish. Another reference
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Some of the reading I had done a while back indicates that soy oil is more a semi drying oil, unlike pure tung oil.
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