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rawroy
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2020 19:23 - Edited by: rawroy
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I plan on building a 120sq ft Log Cabin Shed to get some experience here before building our off grid cabin and I have a few questions...

I found some 6"x8' Treated Fence Posts at Tractor Supply and wondering if treated lumber is safe to use?

How do I join the logs to make the walls longer? I was thinking I can make it 8'x15' and put a barn door on the one of the long sides but that still needs 2 logs for the back wall.

rawroy
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2020 19:24 - Edited by: rawroy
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Here's the lumber and cabin I want to build but the door will go on the long side instead to break it up.
LogShed.jpg
LogShed.jpg
4041082.jfif
4041082.jfif


Brettny
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2020 20:08
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Stick build it and use log siding. It's a shed.

Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2020 21:07
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You can do a lap joint... do it vertically rather than horizontally and it will look better.

What kind of notch are you planning? Have fun learning!

rawroy
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2020 21:08 - Edited by: rawroy
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"Stick build it and use log siding. It's a shed."

Thanks but that would be too easy and I wouldn't really learn how to join logs if I just avoid these challenges. I need to get the experience now becase I can't just change my mind and build a house with 2x4's instead. I'd rather learn how to build a real cabin and by starting out with a 120sq ft size shed, I avoid permits and keep the cost down and end up with a nice shed anyway.

rawroy
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2020 21:11 - Edited by: rawroy
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I plan on scribing them and doing scandanavian saddle notches like this image.
Fourdifferentlogc.png
Fourdifferentlogc.png


Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2020 22:45
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My first log home we did a Norwegian scrib. That is a saddle notch on the ends and also length wise scribe... a v-notch length wise so the top log sits tightly to the log below. The length wise v is filled with insulation before setting it on the log below. A lot of work but you can make a tight home with this method.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 8 Feb 2020 07:47
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If you want to end with something nice I wouldn't start with fence posts.

Aklogcabin
Member
# Posted: 8 Feb 2020 11:26
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Starting off practicing on a shed is good experience. Good on you for taking on the challenge. I’m not sure about the pressure treated posts though. They may give off an odor from the preservatives. Although as you stated its a shed. But maybe if it’s vented it won’t be a problem. Or maybe if it is painted, at least on the inside. You can hopefully let us know. May be really good if you have to deal with termites n such.
A pencil calipers will be your friend when scribing. I have even used a rubber band to fasten a small one inch bubble level to the calipers to help me maintain a more accurate line. Once you get started you will figure out what works for you.
So guess you can be the test project and report back your results for the rest of us . Good luck!

rawroy
Member
# Posted: 8 Feb 2020 12:24
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Quoting: Aklogcabin
Starting off practicing on a shed is good experience.


That's what I'm thinking, 1. I need the experience. 2. It's cheaper 3. I need a shed anyway. 4. I won't need a permit. 5. I'm renting and don't own land yet to build my cabin.

Come to think about it, we have a big termite problem here.

I found some fence post logs from a guy on Craiglist that he has had laying around for years. They were treated too but so old, maybe the chemicals aren't so bad now. Just $500 vs spending thousands. I also have a guy that owns a timber company that said the next time he fella some 6-8" Pine he'll give me a call but that can be months.

Anyway, yeah, I'm going to video and document this project from start to finish and put on YouTube for all to see and maybe help me out along the way.

Thanks!

Timmerhus
Member
# Posted: 30 Jan 2021 10:49
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Pinewood, at least Norwegian pinewood needs treating against termites, Axil 3000 P from France is very good, it has proven effective in US Virgin Islands - there are 11 different spices of termites there. Axil is not nearly as poisonous as fence posts.
Here is a link to a factory in Scandinavia, probably they do not call those notches and scribe same way as you do, because in Norway alone there are more than 140 different ways to notch a log... Anyway, they make Norwegian log cabins , there is also all the building process shown in Hovden area in Norway. Very remote place... scroll down for gallery

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 30 Jan 2021 11:24
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Use the butt-n-pass method, pin together with rebar.

Pin in the corners horizontally to lock the corners, then pin along wall every 2 or 3 feet, stagger the pins on each row. This is how the LHBA does it. Be done in a weekend.

BobW
Member
# Posted: 30 Jan 2021 17:15
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With the full scribe method you are planning, logs could be joined by first cutting ends square, then butting together. Drill a vertically through the joint put in calking and drive a dowel to seal the joint. I am assuming you will be using log screws or perhaps spikes to hold the logs together.
Remember to add the length of tails for the joints to the length of log needed.

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