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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Hemlock and spruce logs
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doglvr
Member
# Posted: 11 Apr 2020 20:30
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I have quite a few nice big hemlock and black spruce trees that will need to be cut down this spring. I wanted to use some of these logs in the cabin (purlins and loft floor joists) that I plan to build. I have read that they peel much easier in the spring so I was going to cut and peel them and let them set for a year. Was wondering how well hemlock and spruce fair after sitting this long after they have been peeled. I have heard that hemlock should be put up green but I do not plan on using it for boards.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 11 Apr 2020 21:08
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If your making lumber out of it cut it and have it milled asap. Don't wait 4 months the bugs can get it. Seal the ends the day you cut the tree. Cut the logs at least 1ft longer than needed.

doglvr
Member
# Posted: 11 Apr 2020 22:06
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Just using it for log purlins and log loft floor joists. How would it do sitting for a year peeled for this application?

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2020 06:29
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Its definitely going to split no matter what time of year.

doglvr
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2020 06:47
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Peel or not to peel is the question especially with soft wood.I have heard and read that bugs get to it with bark on and its more difficult to peel after they sit. But also read that mildew and bacteria is bad if they are peeled. They will be setting on the ground in a big pile until next year most likely. I could cover them with a tarp but thinking that could have an adverse affect as well. Maybe should leave bark on the ones that are sitting up the ground and peel the ones on the pile.

Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2020 08:45
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They will be much easier to peel green as you have heard, but they will check/crack more with the bark off. As Brettny says, sealing the ends will help with this as they tend to dry more quickly at these cuts... oil based paint will work. You may get bugs in them but generally they will be just under the bark so will leave trails that may need to be draw knifed out or not, character! If you peel them....You do not want to put a tarp on them. The tarp will trap moisture and you will get mold and mildew discoloration on the top logs. Tin is better or at least tent it so the tarp does not lay on the logs. Try to minimize contact between logs, i.e. rick stack them so contact is minimal. Get them up off the ground a foot or so and a bit of carpenter ant poison spread around them will help keep those destroyers at bay. We used to build with green spruce but it is heavy and shrinks way more than you would expect. Have never built with hemlock. Lodge pole was our logs of choice most of the time, occasionally western larch.

Hope that helps!

Aklogcabin
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2020 10:30
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I don’t see any problem with using those logs. And Nobadays lays it out pretty good. I’ve been around a few log mills and have never seen sealer on the butt ends. The reason there there sitting there is to get the moisture out of the wood. And easy to peel can be a relative term. I’ve never enjoyed peeling logs. It’s a lot of work.
If you can cover them with a roof to protect the wood from rain peeling first may be easier because their green. But if no roof cover leave the bark on the protect from the weather. If you peel them later they will have a fresh cut , for lack of a better term look. Yellow. If you peel first they will turn darker.
If it were me. I would stack em with the bark on and peel when I used them. When you’re ready to build go through your stack rough cut what you’re going to use and then peel it .
Just my thoughts. Good luck on your build.

Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2020 11:52
Reply 


We mostly built with standing dead lodge pole.... bark on and yes just stacked them up (as AK says) and peeled just ahead of using them... it keeps them prettier!

Yep... perling logs ain't fun anytime!

doglvr
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2020 13:04 - Edited by: doglvr
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Good suggestions all. I would like the logs to stay as pretty as possible so I am thinking that I would wait until next year to peel even though it sounds like a lot of work. I really do not have any structure that would be solid enough to protect them so putting them up off the ground a bit for better air circulation sounds like a good suggestion. It will be a spring cut this year....hopefully.... so I am hoping the peel will be easier even if it does set for a year. I have many ideas in my head on how best to use these logs....but I also am inexperienced with logs so handling them sounds a little daunting and dangerous especially without a crane. They are tall, straight and beautiful. Hate to just cut them down for fire wood....but they are blocking a million dollar view therefore the reason for the cut. Wish I had a sawmill! I have enough wood to build the cabin but not sure in the end if it would be worth the cost for just one build.

Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2020 19:37
Reply 


There are some nice USA built mills out there these days. If you have the timber you wouldn't regret getting a mill.... your neighbors would live it too! There would be a lot of trades possibilities!

old243
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2020 09:14
Reply 


I have had a mill , for a long time. Can't do as much , the last couple of years . The boards and cants are just too heavy. If you are physically fit. and have trees, definetly look into a mill. Have milled spruce, pine and hemlock. If you leave them in a pile with the bark on . as soon as spring comes the bug will make a mess of them. I have sprayed them with diesel fuel but that is temporary, till you mill them or get the bark off. I liked winter cut logs, milled before the bug starts, store under cover, properly stickered. This will give the nicest lumber, and minimum fungus and stain. In the round, all logs will check, it is just the stresses in the log as they shrink and dry out. Have fun with your project. old 243

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2020 09:21
Reply 


Unless you have a mill that is very portable with lifting arms you will also need a way to move logs to the mill.

I built my own sawmill about 5 years ago. So far I have built a 13x19ft 2 story shed and all the siding as well as two 4x6ft smaller sheds from scrap. I'm in the process of sawing the last boards needed for a 20x32 cabin with a lift for the property we bought. So for the $1500 I have into this mill I say it's well worth it. I have never paid for a single log. Most came from my 3ac property I live on and some free of craigslist.

Now if you have to buy logs even as fit as I am and the equipment I have I wouldn't bother. Let someone else do all the work and you just pay.

I see very cheap mills for about $5k new. I wouldn't buy the HF mill.

old243
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2020 10:17
Reply 


Brettney. Agree about needing additional equipment. I have a fork lift mounted on a tractor. I found that hand bombing lumber and cants , more than once , didn't make sense. My mill has a log lifter , hydraulic clamping , most were added after I bought it, in my workshop. A few extra gadgets , will make milling a lot more fun. Probably the first cutting project should be a shelter for the mill and dry storage for your nice dry lumber. All structure , milled by you, from your own trees, at minimum cost out lay. old243

skootamattaschmidty
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2020 14:31
Reply 


I'm no expert but I believe fall or winter cut logs can be peeled right away with little mildew developing because there is less sap in the wood. It is definitely easier to peel when they are green in the spring as long pieces can be pulled right off. But they will darken up for sure with mildew. Log peeling is never much fun...luckily I had a wife who didnt mind it and she did most the peeling for me while I did the building...

doglvr
Member
# Posted: 14 Apr 2020 21:55
Reply 


Skootamattaschmidty.....my wife said the same thing. She would peel while I built! Too funny!We have some good women!

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