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Small Cabin Forum / Off-Grid Living / off grid camper in the woods.. what you wish you were told?
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optimistic
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 08:24
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Hey everyone,

I am planning to buy a travel trailer soon and plunk it on my land for long term.

I never owned one.

I am sure there are plenty of people here who did or doing it so what things should I know or you wished you knew / told before.

old243
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 08:42
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I would support it well . A gravel pad. Put thick planks under the wheels , so they don't settle into the ground, also some under your outriggers. Make sure it is level. Keep it out from under large trees. Decide how you are going to keep your batteries , charged, solar panels or generator, or both. How you will dispose of sewage and grey water. Access to the location. Build a roof over it, camper roofs are notorious , for leakage. Look online for camper shelter , ideas. Probably others. Happy Camping old243

ICC
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 09:01
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Quoting: old243
Build a roof over it, camper roofs are notorious , for leakage. Look online for camper shelter , ideas.


Does your location get snow? I have no idea how well an RV roof is built for carrying a load of snow. So a shelter roof like a carport may be a good idea. I have seen many trailers parked under a shelter roof in places in my state but most of those are to provide protection from the sun.

old243
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 09:29
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I have seen shelters, where camper is parked under one half of truss roof. The other half can be used as a screened porch , kitchen or what ever. Also if you are buying a used trailer. check for bulging of outer skin, this usually indicates leakage. also soft spots in floor, or water stains. This can be a major pain to fix. old243

Just
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 14:11
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Payed 250.00$ , 2 hydro posts for footings had to leval the first few years but not the last ten, new steel roof , covered all the junk holes with 4in insulation first, no more leaks. Built outhouse ,added wood stove and solar ,Rain water tank.
Gets lots of day use not many sleepovers .its been worth every cent . Biggest problems ,thief's and the mouse.
Heaven
Heaven


toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 15:50 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Snow will collapse them, after heavy snowfall, then rain, gets super heavy, then down it will come. If your there, shovel often, if not, build a roof over it.

gnt530
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 19:17
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https://www.realtor.com/realestateandhomes-detail/Coal-Mine-Rd_Lopez_PA_18628_M94746- 00161

I am not the owner of this property and do not know who does but when searching for properties I came across this. Thought it was a cool idea. Protects your trailer but you also have a bunk house for visitors.

VC_fan
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 19:56
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What old243 said about bulges - notice how many campers (even relatively new ones) with laminated walls have bulges which indicate they've lost the adhesion between the built-up layers and lost their structural integrity. They look very nice when new but in my opinion don't hold up as well as the older aluminum
sided ones. I have one that sits out and intentionally looked for one with the old fashioned aluminum siding. And look for one with big tanks - water, gray, and black. Some even large trailers have very small storage tanks. And please don't finance it for 15 or 20 years or whatever they're allowing now! Buy a decent used one. My .02 only. It's an excellent, economical solution - have fun!

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 20:58
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Thanks for all the great posts!

old243 - yes I agree - roof over is a must. I am trying to figure out best econ way for that. I will use that roof fro water catchment and to support the solar panels.

ICC - I do get snow. I will have a roof over it. Agree- used all cash is the way to go.

VC fan - what size is small for storage tanks?

Camper questions -

1. I am looking at a 2014 one. Guy says it has no inverter but it has batteries. How could that be? does that mean I won't be able to hook this camper up to a solar system with batteries and inverter without modifying major things in the camper?

2. I am considering just doing a diy septic then when we got up there - hooking it and up to it then un hooking when I leave. Is that a good plan? any good simple plans for a small diy septic?

3. I wish to completely run this off solar. I am assuming I will need panels, battery bank, charge controller, and inverter - correct? anything else?

Can anyone share their set up?

4. in my cabin I buried a 350 gallon water tank for rain water. It has been full since I was last there... 3 years ago. I have a first flush diverter and will throw in those chlorine pucks in there. when I was there a few years ago I disconnect it so no "new" water will get added... Which means the water has been sitting there for about 3 years.. Obviously we don't drink that water - we planned to use it for shower and kitchen sink rinsing. Should I dump out that water? if yes - then should I do anything to the tank prior to letting fill up again?

5. Anyone here doing a compost outhouse or toilet and can share their set up and a few tips?

darz5150
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 21:36
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Quoting: optimistic
Guy says it has no inverter but it has batteries. How could that be? does that mean I won't be able to hook this camper up to a solar system with batteries and inverter without modifying major things in the camper?

Probably has a plug in for shore power. And built in 12 volt cigarette plug ins and 12 volt lites, exhaust fans, water pumps furnace heater etc.
Be sure to check the built in battery charger. If it isn't one that's 3 stage. They can be hard on the batteries.

offgrididaho
Member
# Posted: 6 May 2020 23:46
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You might look into what I think they call "destination" style trailers... less aerodynamic, not as good at being hauled from place to place, but more designed to be parked somewhere long term. I think it can get you more interior space, bigger kitchen appliances and better tankage. Although a lot of them seem to be designed to be plugged into 120 power all the time.

As far as batteries and no inverter that just means everything that takes power in the rig takes it as 12v. Most things in this world can be run off 12v, you could get a small inverter for the few things (like cordless drill batteries etc) that you definitely need 120v for.

-- Bass

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 07:45
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Grid tip ofgrididaho ! I will look into that. Wonder if anyone knows the term those type?

jhp
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 08:33
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Around here they're called "park model" RVs. They are usually much bigger, have a lot more glass.

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 08:45
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Quoting: jhp
Around here they're called "park model" RVs


Those are 450 sq feet or less, idea is they are not taxable, even if set up permanently, because of size and its "mobile" or not fixed.

A now out of biz local outfit here built the best looking units. They didnt look like an RV, was called Norwester
Here is an example of one.
https://offerup.com/item/detail/521491502/

VC_fan
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 19:16
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Park model trailers also usually have standard residential appliances vs travel trailers which have refrigerators that can run off of propane.

To answer the question about tank size - small is relative. Ours is something like 40 gallons of fresh water but some are as small as 15-20 gallons. The others won't matter if you're setting up some kind of disposal system.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 20:32
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If your looking for long term..a trailer would not be my first choice. They are not to last no matter how you cut it.
Price out lumber and roofing for the size trailer you want.

Popeye
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 21:16
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I agree with Brettny. Camping trailers are not worth it. You will not be able to keep mice out of it. They are also difficult to dispose of when you are finished with it and there isn't enough metals to make it worthwhile to scrap.

I also don't see solar being beneficial. Your honda generator will run on $2 a day. Why sink the money into solar when it would take too long to break even based on your projected use?

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 21:38
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Popeye and brettny - this is for 3-5 years at most. We have a tiny cabin there that needs work so are planning to finish it up while staying at the travel trailer.

My beloved Honda, quietest thing on the market, is still noisy and a beautiful quiet forest. I didn't spend so much time, energy, and money to save a few bucks on solar system that will make my stay silent. you are right on an economic reasoning but I rather spend the money to have quiet solitude in my private woods.

anyone have any input on questions 4 and 5?

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 7 May 2020 22:15
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Also, I am planning to park the one I buy (30ft+) in a street in Brooklyn (haha) for a week or so to fix it up and renovate it for a couple of weeks. the street is super uneven and on a slight downhill. I will not be able to keep it attached to the vehicle as I need my car for work... What "stuff" do I need to set it in the street like that? jacks? cinder blocks?

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2020 06:57
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Ask a trailer forum what you need to do to park one in the street.

Believe it or not 3-5yrs for a trailer left out in the snow is a long time. Many are built cheap with max profit in mind.

How much fixing does the small cabin need that it will take 3-5yrs to repair?

What part of what state are you going to park the trailer in? In NY you will need a building permit for even a roof over a camper I believe.

RiverCabin
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2020 11:43
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Quoting: Popeye
I agree with Brettny. Camping trailers are not worth it. You will not be able to keep mice out of it. They are also difficult to dispose of when you are finished with it and there isn't enough metals to make it worthwhile to scrap.

I also don't see solar being beneficial. Your honda generator will run on $2 a day. Why sink the money into solar when it would take too long to break even based on your projected use?


Pay attention to this guy. He gets it.

What will you do with a five year old (purchased used) camper in the middle of nowhere when you move to the cabin? You won't get any money for it and will more than likely have to pay to get rid of it.
Think about that lost money and how you could have used it on a cabin. You would be better off tent camping for a couple years while finishing the cabin.

He is also correct regarding solar. If you have any access to grid electric, it is a smarter option than solar. When I built my cabin, it was with solar in mind. The cabin was not grid tied and I wired it to run directly off a Honda EU2000i. After a few years I grid tied it to an existing pole with underground wiring and a circuit breaker on the pole.

Here was my analysis as to why I didn't go solar. Hooking my cabin to the pole cost approximately $500.00. My electric bill is consistently from $26-28 per month (cooperative electric with 100 kw hrs included). So lets say (28x12 months)x10 years equals $3360 for 10 years of service. My break even point on a reasonable solar system would be probably close to 20 years.

I am not trying to insult solar. I avidly follow every solar build thread on this forum and consider myself a solar fan. Often with a cabin it is the only option. My only point is that if grid power is vailable, it is almost always the better choice.

Princelake
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2020 21:46
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I live in northern Ontario and my trailer is farther up north in a heavy snow belt area average is 157inches. And we go get some of the coldest temps I Canada. Last winter where my trailer was it was -57 plus wind chill for a week straight and when plumbing antifreeze is only rated for -50 haha. My trailer is a 98 and it's been up there 2 winters now with zero issues. I go up once a winter to shovel the roof. I plan on keeping it there probably 2-3 more winters before I pull it out and sell it. I'm not worried about a trailer that is 20 years old. I would def not be worried about a 2014 trailer parked in the bush for a few years.

Just
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2020 22:24
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If it gets you out there 5 years early then its worth the drawbacks. Life is short live !!! I built my first cabin while living in a two man tent for 60 days ,,a trailer With a mouse would have been heaven .

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2020 06:17
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No one is saying it had to be a tent or a trailer. Most cabins and houses can benefit from a shed. Why not buy the shed first and put a cot in it? Hard sides and roof, can shed the snow better than a trailer, dosnt cost as much as a trailer and you putting money into something that will still be useful past the 5yr mark.

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2020 16:06
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I appreciate the advice but I think this works best for us to get immediate enjoyment from our land.

I agree with Just. Life is short.

Any opinion help on question 4 & 5?

spencerin
Member
# Posted: 11 May 2020 00:58
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optimistic,

4. Can't be answered singularly. Any # of things could've - or couldn't've - happened to your water over 3 years. If you're worried, have your local Health Department analyze a sample (it's cheap). If you don't want to do that, eyeball a sample yourself and, if it looks ok, chuck some more chlorine pucks in there since you won't be drinking it (chlorine leaves water on its own fairly quickly, so I doubt there'd be any left in there after 3 years). If you just drain it, it would be wise to powerwash it with an appropriate cleaning solution prior to refilling it.

5. You can do a forum search for setups and tips. The 2 most common drawbacks I've heard about composting toilets have to do with ventilation (backflow into the structure, rare if installed properly) and disposing of their contents (still unpleasant). Some Health Departments consider it illegal to dump your own composted contents onto your own land, defeating the purpose of a composting toilet. But, you may be somewhere where that's not an issue - I'd check with your local Health Department on that.

ICC
Member
# Posted: 11 May 2020 09:18
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Quoting: spencerin
.....drawbacks I've heard about composting toilets .....


When the temperature of the material to be composted drops below about 55 F the composting action ceases.

cspot
Member
# Posted: 11 May 2020 19:05
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As far as #4, How long would it take to refill? I would be tempted to empty and cleanout the tank to make sure you won't have any issues from dirt or debris that possibly got in there. Now if you are in a dry region I may reconsider. With the rain that we have been getting around here recently I could fill a 350 gallon tank in a couple of weeks from my little rain catchment system. LOL. You could always run some into some 5 gallon buckets when you empty to use that water for emergency until it refills.

As far as a camper I will just relate my experience. When we bought the property there was one on it. We did use it for a little over a year until we built our cabin. I hated the thing. I couldn't keep the mice out and I had mold/mildew issues inside.

Just my opinion which isn't much. LOL. I wouldn't waste the money on the camper. They depreciate in value pretty quick even if you buy used plus the time to get it hooked up. I would go with the prefab shed to live in temporarily and any money spent there would still be of value since you can still use it.

Another option is to use the money that you would spend on the trailer to hire some help in getting the tiny house fixed up. What all needs done to your tiny house? The advantage of the tiny house is that they are tiny, so I wouldn't think the $$$ value should be all that great if the shell is still good.

spoofer
Member
# Posted: 15 May 2020 07:11
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I hear that if you peee in your compost toilet it won't work well. You need some kind of peee diverter,

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 15 May 2020 07:21
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Thanks for tips everyone. MY tank feels up fast with the rain we get but the problem is that it is buried underground. Getting to it to clean it isn't easy.

I will pull some water out and see.

I once tried to find online water sampling services and it seemed like there aren't many good one out there.

Yeah a urine diverter is a must.. My idea is to catch rain water from the outhouse roof into a 10 gallon can, then pipe that to a wall mounted faucet and sink and have the drain from that - run into the urine diverter - cleaning it when you wash your ends. Also have an overflow on that can and lead that to the drain as well so it will divert rain water to urine diverter to wash...

BTW! urine diverter seems to only work for guys???

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