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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Addition to cabin on pad.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
# Posted: 3 Aug 2020 10:14
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I need to build a lean-to addition on the cabin for both tractor storage and a closet for mechanicals and household items. Tractor area would have gravel floor and closet would have wood framed floor. My first thought Is to constrict it like a pole barn and frame out closet within it. Any thoughts on this method?

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 08:06
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There are very few places in north America that wood should be in the ground. Use sono tubes for under the posts and a post bracket.

Irrigation Guy
Member
# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 08:25
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Quoting: Brettny
There are very few places in north America that wood should be in the ground. Use sono tubes for under the posts and a post bracket


Yes I should have been more specific, I wanted to set posts on concrete footings but frame in pole barn style. I guess my question should have been, will pole barn style framing be sturdy enough without the poles being buried?

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 09:12
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You will need to add angle braces, a wall or a combo of both. How you attach it to the cabin really matters too.

This is how my car port is framed, I didnt take this pic for this purpose though. The bottom of that 45* base has a 1/2in bolt through it and the post. The top is notched and through bolted 2x. I wish I used 6x6 posts for the vertical. I chose my main carry beam dimention because that's what size log I had. Didnt really made sence to cut it any thinner. Its 2 2x14".
20190614_075241.jpg
20190614_075241.jpg


ICC
Member
# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 12:49
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How big will this be? One full 4x8 ft sheet of weather resistant panel, 1/2" thick minimum as a brace panel will stiffen up a wall section pretty good up to 16 feet length. At a minimu one such panel in one N-S wall and one in an E-W wall. should do in laces tat will not see high winds. All bets are off for 70 mph or so as the big danger there is wind getting under the roof and lifting, ripping it off. The panel would need to be nailed to studs (16" OC best) and top and bottom plates. Position three of the support poles/posts at a corner making a rt angle and fully sheeting the corner on the two perpendicular sides is the way I built a couple of roofed parking pads for machinery here.

Irrigation Guy
Member
# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 20:54
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I would like to make it 24x10 or 24x12

ICC
Member
# Posted: 4 Aug 2020 21:45
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I would suggest using a full 4x8 sheet at each end of the 24 ft walls as well as a 4x8 at at least one corner of the shorter wall. Framed well and nailed with spiral shank or ring shank nails every 6", 6D or 8D nails, not gun nails.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 05:59
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Mine is 12x24. The top is nailed/screwed into the roof rafters over the top plate of my garage. It has no walls except for the one that is the garage. It has a shingle roof so plywood sheething. Prior to the angle braces on the two end posts it racked quite a bit in line with the posts. Now it dosnt move.

I really like having open walls on 3 sides. Theres been many times I have come in the long side with my tractor bucket. Leaving both ends open makes for easy acess and not having to move something to get to the back...there is no back.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 5 Aug 2020 06:11
Reply 


It's a pretty simple structure. 2x6 rafters over a beam that's over posts. Mine is on a slab but could be on sono tubes. Put a gutter on it, it really helps with water splashing under the roof. Even durring this tropical storm only 2ft in the concrete was wet. I have 12in overhangs on the sides and I think 18in on the bottom.

If I needed to lock things up I wouldnt build a structure like this. How ever it is great for equipment storage, firewood and just odds and ends you like to keep dry or snow off.
20181006_133432.jpg
20181006_133432.jpg


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