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neb
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# Posted: 14 Aug 2020 07:40
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I'm sure then has been many posts on the subject of the method of having water at the cabin.
I recently drove a sand point water well at my primary home and will be doing the same at the cabin at some time.
I'm at 21 feet and have more water and pressure then I do from the existing utility water system for a small town. I am also powering the jet pump from a grid electrical system. The pump is low amp and HP pump and costs ~$2.85¢ for 24 hours of running the pump. Water is free so very economical.
Just wondering how many have dug or drove their own well.
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snobdds
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# Posted: 14 Aug 2020 11:20 - Edited by: snobdds
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I have a natural spring on the side of my mountain that flows into a 2500 gallon tank buried up there. It's just gravity fed to my cabin and produces around 80psi. I have to regulate the pressure down before it enters the cabin. The only maintenance is walking the water line every spring to look for leaks. The line is above ground and we get so much snow that it insulates the line all winter.
You can see the mountain in the background.
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 14 Aug 2020 22:45
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^ beautiful cabin setting. I can see why pipe is on top of ground.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 15 Aug 2020 08:31
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Man sno that is some rocky "soil"
Our water source currently is a stream. We use a jet pump to fill a IBC tote up on the hill. This gives us about 20psi at the site. We did find a develop a spring on the property that we are going to ram pump up the hill. It produced 5gpm minimum.
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Aklogcabin
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# Posted: 16 Aug 2020 08:29
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Hello neb, I need to finish mine. I have two inch pipe. Started with a post driver but not happening 20 ‘. If you used a jackhammer did you make an attachment? And what did it look like. Or anyone? I need some designs to build one. Thanks man i
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neb
Member
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# Posted: 17 Aug 2020 08:11 - Edited by: neb
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^ No jack hammer. I dug a 6 inch hole down ~3 foot. Then I made an auger and attached it to a 10 foot 3/4 inch light wall conduit. The auger is a 1 foot 1.75 inch piece of pipe that I can easily dump when pulled back up by tapping the auger or sticking a small rod in the end of the auger head. I used a vise grip to turn the auger pipe to fill the head. Then pulled up and dumped. It was 5 to 6 inch depth each time I dumped. I did this process till I reached 10 feet. Then I had a piece of sucker rod that was 15 feet long which I put a sharp point on the end and I broke through the hard pan. Then I started to drive my sand point which was not hard at all because I was down about 13 feet so the last 8 I didn't have all that resistance of all that earth to drive through. Here is a picture of the wobble head auger that is attached with a bolt and the 10 foot 3/4 inch pipe.
I sand point I used is 1 1/4 inch galvanized pipe so it fit in hole to the 13 foot mark. To get to ~13 feet took just a couple of hours.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Aug 2020 20:32
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I had a well drilled and installed a solar livestock well.
I turn on a switch, water runs out about 2 gallons a minute. Well is 178 feet deep, static water level is 100 feet.
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neb
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# Posted: 17 Aug 2020 22:25
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^ mine is producing 5 gallons every 39 minutes. I have been very happy and have plenty of water at a depth of 21 feet to the bottom of the sand point.
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Irrigation Guy
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# Posted: 17 Aug 2020 22:34
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech I had a well drilled and installed a solar livestock well. I turn on a switch, water runs out about 2 gallons a minute. Well is 178 feet deep, static water level is 100 feet. P1020632.JPG
Why the chain link?
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jrwasko66
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2020 15:10
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I have lived off the grid in Northern New Mexico for 9 years now and survive completely off rainwater.
Outside of the fact wells here are too deep for solar i refuse to keep chasing the water table as more and more people draw off it.
I have a very basic screen filter just before my pump to filter out any larger debris. Otherwise, I just have a high quality filter at my sinks for consumption. Never had a problem with any of my appliances (dishwasher, washer, pumps, showers) using straight rainwater. I do have screens on my gutters for leaves and such.
My cistern is not buried so in the summer the water will get warm enough that I can get an algae burst if I don't chlorinated every June. You only let that happen once. Yes the cistern is opaque but enough light filters in to let the algae grow. It is not insulated either so in winter I will get an iceberg floating in it. Nights get cold a 8000 feet.
With my above explanation you can imaging my water temp fluctuates depending on the season. Winter it is absolutely frigid. So for hot water I have 2 TANKLESS hot water tanks in series otherwise with only one my water would only get luke warm in winter.
I am building a new off grid place in SE OK next year. That water tank will be at least 3500 gallons and buried so the temp will not fluctuate.
My tank above ground is only 1500 gallons. My neighbor has the same on a 30 foot yurt and is half buried. The temperature fluctuations are not as dramatic but do exist. You can partially bury an above ground tank it just needs to be full before you backfill so it does not cane in.
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justinbowser
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# Posted: 25 Aug 2020 23:12
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jr - Our cabin is also in SE Oklahoma!
We have been using rainwater for two years. Last year was just for dishes and showers but this spring I added a three filter full-house filter system and a UV purifier. We have been using it for all of our water needs since. I periodically test for coliform bacteria and other contaminates but clean to date.
We use gutter-guards to keep out the big crap, and a Leaf-Eater feeding into a first flush diverter. I have 6 275 gl IBC totes hooked together at the cabin and 2 at the woodshed/laundry room for laundry and watering the garden.
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