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moneypitfeeder
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# Posted: 13 Sep 2020 17:38
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We pulled out our propane regulator and tubing with the thoughts to replace them, we've had the cabin over 10 yrs and the regulator is probably closer to 20yrs old. We wanted to go to stainless sleeved hose, since the critters chew on the rubber hose. We were a little stunned by how small the inner diameter of the hose was and think that it might not have ever been sized appropriately for our set-up. We operate the cabin with alternating between a 20-lb and a 30-lb propane tank. Does anyone have experience sizing propane regulators and hosing here? We have an old Caloric gas range (4-burner and smallish oven/broiler), a propane fridge, and 2 gas lights running off the current setup. I'm not sure if I can get the BTUs for each appliance since we are back home till next year, but I can try to estimate. We pipe the outside line to a 1/2" black iron manifold with several take-offs (yellow flex lines to the fridge and stove and 1/4" copper line to the lights, all have their own new shutoffs)
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Brettny
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# Posted: 14 Sep 2020 07:02
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So all the appliances run off 11WC? That's about 1/2psi. There is no real propane hog in your setup and some are even intermittent use. Where you having trouble with the system?
I believe most fridges are 1lb of propane per day. If you have the typical gas lamps are 11btu. For a stove top I would say between 15-22btu per burner. No clue on the oven.
3/8 copper is pretty easy stuff to work with as far as bends and flaring. Check all connections with soapy water.
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moneypitfeeder
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# Posted: 14 Sep 2020 15:32
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We are just looking to replace the old regulator that is outside connected to the small "grill-sized" tank (we swap between our regular 30, and the 20-lb spare) because the seals might be going bad due to age, and the rubber hose from the regulator to the black iron manifold since critters keep gnawing at the rubber and it's seal is cracked. All the stuff on the inside is new, 1/2" yellow coated appliance hoses to the fridge and stove. The 2 lights are the only thing in copper. We just aren't sure if the regulator was correct, it is a Marshall model 260, 2-stage lp reg, listed 605H, outdoor use. The hose is a 1/4" POL line, but we weren't sure if that was the correct connection from the tank to the 1/2" iron manifold in the cabin, or if there should be a different size or hose we should use. In a typical week we are going through about 20-30 lbs of LP.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2020 07:07
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Post pictures of the current regulator and lines please.
I have used the stainless braided propane hoses. The stainless is just crimped in the ferrel on the end. In my case this pulled out and I was left with jagged wires hanging out. My other setup had a regulator mounted on black pipe with a soft copper whip to go to the tank. This setup is way more robust.
I believe your looking for a pigtail.
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moneypitfeeder
Member
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2020 18:05
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Here's pics of the current hose we are looking to replace.
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moneypitfeeder
Member
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2020 18:06
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And here are pics of the regulator we'd like to replace.
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moneypitfeeder
Member
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2020 18:16
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The hose from outside connects to a black iron pipe that extends to the outside of the cabin from the center tee of this manifold, just to the left of the vertical take-off. The vertical is to the lights, the left yellow hose is to the fridge and the right is to the range that you can see the edge of in the pic.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2020 05:50 - Edited by: Brettny
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Looks to be an old camper regulator. It should say 11 or 12W.C on it some where. That's a pretty standard pressure. Since rodents chew your rubber I would replace the rubber piece with a copper pigtail. Those are all pretty standard propane parts and I'm sure if you know the pipe size you could find them in many places online.
I'd you wanted to use a rubber hose again I would get one with a standard ACME fitting on the end. No tools needed to change your tank.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-12-in-L-Pigtail-Propane-Hose-Connector-Clamshell-59 053/206813621
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mj1angier
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2020 08:50
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If you do go back with rubber, you can cover the hose with a SS braided hose sheath:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-8090-Flex-Braided-Sleeve/dp/B000BWCG8Q/ref=sr_1_3?dc hild=1&keywords=Braided+Hose+Cover&qid=1600260546&sr=8-3
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moneypitfeeder
Member
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# Posted: 24 Oct 2020 18:04
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I really like the ACME fitting, much easier to change than our current setup. That flex sleeve looks like it might be the ticket, copper theft in our area is a concern, unfortunately. That's why we went to black iron from the inside to the outside, 'cause the copper was ripped out a few years ago. Thanks!
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Fanman
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# Posted: 25 Oct 2020 08:58
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A rubber hose should never be used in any permanent installation, and is probably illegal under most building codes. And the regulator must be a two stage regulator, not the single stage regulators used on campers and BBQ grills. I got most of my propane stuff from propanewarehouse.com.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 4 Dec 2020 22:48
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Im was thinking of running my 1yr old rubber line through some plastic conduit to prevent the varmint chewing. It connects outside to a fitting matching the hose on the metal manifold. But far better would be soft copper line.
When running pipe we are supposed to use a moisture/sediment trap (drip leg). Caveat is that in a freezing environment you dont want it to freeze and burst so for winter prep you should drop the cap and drain each drip leg.
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ICC
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2020 16:45
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Quoting: gcrank1 When running pipe we are supposed to use a moisture/sediment trap (drip leg). Caveat is that in a freezing environment you dont want it to freeze and burst so for winter prep you should drop the cap and drain each drip leg.
The name "drip leg" is actually a misnomer if we are talking about the "pipe stub" we see used just before the flex line that connects to devices like furnaces, water heaters, ranges, etc. Those are more correctly called "sediment traps". Those are in place to provide a place for particulate matter to drop; things like rust flakes, etc.
Actual low point "drips", meant to collect liquid water, are not required when the gas supplier supplies dry gas, natural or propane. There are industry specs. All natural gas from natural gas utilities is dry. Propane is supposed to be dry, and usually is unless the seller is sloppy or unethical. In some places winter propane has methanol added to help preent water issues; 3 pints to 1000 gallons.
I have never seen moisture in a sediment trap. Rust and dust, yes. Moisture, never. There are many more details that will actually head off very real winter freeze problems to be concerned about.
Years ago, one of the services we did around here was winterizing cabins and homes for seasonal users. Did that for over 25 years. Most everyone had water supply and sewer pipes that definitely would cause grief if not correctly serviced before freezing weather hit. Pretty much everyone also had propane tanks or maybe a few cylinders and I never heard of anyone having a sediemnt trap freeze and break. We never serviced any of those either. Just made sure the tank had propane in it and everything was shut off.
No harm in checking after all the other stuff is done, but I doubt anyone will ever find water in a sediment trap.
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ICC
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2020 16:56 - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: gcrank1 Im was thinking of running my 1yr old rubber line through some plastic conduit to prevent the varmint chewing. It connects outside to a fitting matching the hose on the metal manifold. But far better would be soft copper line.
That sounds like the rubber line runs from outside through a wall to inside. If so that is not an approved connection method.
There are rubber flex lines with a S/S braided cover much like plumbing faucet supply lines. I don't think most rodents will cause any damage to them. They can still "age-out"like any rubber item though.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2020 18:07 - Edited by: Fanman
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Regulator: This one or this one. Flex line (not a rubber hose!), one of these.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 5 Dec 2020 19:36
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ICC, the stub from the manifold is through the wall to the outside with the brass fitting the hose connects to.
I know this hose is not old, and I have it; if I buy a new expensive ss braided covered line it will age out just like the one I have so I was figuring why not cover what I have. Then I figured that for the time and trouble why not just put on a proper copper line and be done with it (duh).
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