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Small Cabin Forum / Off-Grid Living / Wiring Generator to Breaker box
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ArkansasCabin
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 02:19
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I currently am building a cabin in the woods of Arkansas, and am trying to get materials together for the electrical system. I'm having trouble finding in previous forums how to connect the generator to the Disconnect Switch, and then to the Breaker Panel. Can some please help?
The cabin will be entirely off the grid, and i will use a generator to power a few outlets as well as a few overhead lights.

PA_Bound
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 08:35
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Are you running 120v to the breaker box, or 240v?

PA_Bound
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 08:48
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After reading your post again, since you are only powering a few outlets and overhead lights I'm going to assume you are running 120v into the Breaker Panel.

Can you provide some additional detail on the issues/questions you are encounteriing?

justincasei812
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 09:21
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I have a cabin that is entirely off grid and use a generator to power all systems. I basically wired the generator from the shed to a breaker box as you would for a house. The big thing is to make sure the proper gauge wiring is used from the genny to the breaker box for the distance and size of the generator, if you don't the wire can melt and cause a fire. I run a 240v with a 5000 watt generator system due to a well pump that requires it. Make sure you are using grounding rods at both the panel and at the generator. I will add a solar/ battery bank at a later time but for now when the generator is on it is just like being at home. Not sure what your needs/ questions are but it is a straight forward set up that I had to do a lot of research on since I knew little about wiring but knew some electricians that were a ton of help. Wire the cabin as you would for home and to code then run your wire from the generator to the panel as if was from the power company. Use a circuit breaker panel with/ without a main breaker depending on your set up.

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 10:42 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Is your gennie a 110V or a 220V unit?

If its a 110, you will need a large jump wire across the Line 1 and Line 2 input on the top of the penal to tie both legs together of you wil only power up one half of the panel (evey other breaker)

That is what i did. And I have a 20A plug on my porch, I just use a deadmans cord. I wont go into details, but I'm the only one who hooks it up and unhooks it. I do have a large heavy 220 10AWG (10-3 W/ground) ran under my cabin for a bigger gen/regular service hook up later if ever needed)

If you use a transfer switch, be is 110 gennie or a 220 gennie, then wire it normally, just tie the 2 inputs together in your panel, if its a 110 gennie. If your gennie has a 220, use it. But remove the bridge at the inputs. I use my Honda EU2000i, it works so nicely, runs it all. I use CFL in everything. It sets on the porch steps, cant even hardly hear it running.

But as mentioned, use proper sized wire for your gennies max output. If its a 30 amp, use 10AWG, 40A, use 8AWG, 50-60 amp, use 6AWG. if its only 20 AMPS, 12awg. but its OK to go heavier than you gennei is rated for. This makes it nice if you decide to go to a larger gennie. Most large gens are 30A or 10AWG wire. If the run is long from where you are locating the gennie, use a heavier gauge.

ArkansasCabin
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 11:22
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thanks for the quick replies. I'm going to be running 120 volts into the panel. I'm familiar with wiring the lights and receptacles to the breaker box. My problem arrises from not knowing how to wire the twistlock(120volt) plug to a disconnect switch(not a transfer switch) and then from the disconnect switch to the breaker box. With both legs in a regular breaker box suppling 120volts, i dont understand how to wire both legs to supply the voltage needed for a 120 system as opposed to a 240 system? do i only use half of the breakers (i.e. half of the panel box? or is there anothe way of doing this)?

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 17:19 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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On top of the panel, where "service" would normally come in, run a jump wire across to tie each leg together. This will allow you to tie into both legs on a 110V generator.

OK, Don, you are right. I have edited this.

Build a cord to come off of your panel hardwired to the panels inputs that plugs into your generator twistlock. Black wire to input lug in the panel, you will need to add a jumper wire from one input to the other. White wire to neutral bar, green to ground bar. The ground and neutral will be insulated, you have to remove the bonding screw. The ground bar will need a ground rod and a heavy copper wire hooked from the ground rod to the ground bar.

You probably only have a single grounding/neutral bar, where you bought the panel from, you can buy another bar. There is mounts in there to screw it to the panel. Use existing bar for neutral (white wires) and bare or ground wires to the added bar bonded to the ground rod which is usually an 8 foot copper clad steel rod driven into the ground. Not always easy to do.

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 18:22 - Edited by: MtnDon
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EDITED....



There is no need to do anything outside the service panel when you have a service panel that was meant to be wired as a 120 / 240 unit. These panels can be wired to use power from a 120 volt only generator. This can all be done inside the service panel where it is safe, by using an appropriately sized jumper wire from one hot side to the other.

The bonding screw that was mentioned connects the neutrals to the grounds. This is a necessary part of the system BUT with power coming from a generator this can be a grey area. Some generators have a bond built into them. A system should only have one neutral - ground bond. Two or more can create problems. If you can obtain a schematic wiring diagram for the generator look for a connection between the neutral and the ground. If there is one in the generator then do NOT use the bond in the service panel. If no bond in the generator; use the bond in the service panel.

FYI, the same problem is faced with many of the cheaper inverters; inverters with built in receptacles usually have an internal bond.

I think I have photos of mine somewhere but at the moment I can't find .

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 20:05 - Edited by: MtnDon
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If you can post a decent photo of the service panel you have, with the plate removed to expose the buss and connectors it would be relatively easy to point out how to wire it with the power supply coming from a 120 volt generator.

As toyota mentioned, brass screws on plugs and receptacles are always connected to the hot lead, the silver screws always to the white neutral and green grounds are always the green or bare wire.

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2012 21:19 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Don, I have edited my post. If you could edit the info out of the "reply".

I might mention Gentran, there is 2 sized, one for 6 spaces, other for 12 spaces. It basically in a generator "input" you can add to your panel, or you could add a Marinco input to the wall, this would allow you to backfeed, but with a conventional cord to tie your generator to the cabin. If you ever did hook your cabin to the utility service, this would need to be disconnected is all.

http://www.marinco.com/product/30-amp-125-volt-power-inlet-gray
301ELBCMYK96.jpg
301ELBCMYK96.jpg


Anonymous
# Posted: 1 Nov 2012 09:42
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all of this information is exactly what i needed. I'm confident i can now head to one of the big box stores and find exactly what i need. Thanks for the help!

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 1 Nov 2012 10:21 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply 


You wont find the Marinco inlet plug, probably at a marine store or internet order only. The rest, no probs at big box store. On your twist lock, make sure you get the same type, ie L-14, L-16 etc. (it will be on your plug) or being as you are only using 110V AC, maybe the 30A RV plug (inlet on the cabin) and the RV outlet on the end of your generator cord. This is the same type used at RV pparks with RV hookups and Home Depot has the plugs for the end of the cord, but I have never seen the inlet plug there. More likely, online or RV store only. (The RV unit is rated at 30A at 110V AC) so use 10 AWG wire to feed it. Same goes for your extension cord you use from your gennie to your inlet plug.

Good luck, holler when you get it done or holler if you need more info.

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