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etisll40
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# Posted: 4 Oct 2014 20:30
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Thinking about having a cabin built but having it elevated on posts, would like to drive my 4 wheelers under, car snowmobiles etc. Anyone done this? Any place I can find some plans, specs for lumber and such. I have a Timber property, probably can have the wood cut and ready in the Spring. I'm planning on maybe solar, and a composting set up. Use, about 10-20 weeknd a year.
Thanks,
Ed
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 4 Oct 2014 20:57
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there is a member here, can't recall his name, out west somewhere.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2014 00:27
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To do this properly I suggest you build a pole barn type structure using treated poles bought from a supplier. If you use untreated logs for this the structure won't last more than 20-30 years, with treated logs, depending on conditions, it could last 60-90 years. There are numerous books that will give you the basic engineering details of how deep to set your poles, where and where not to put concrete etc. But I strongly suggest you do a lot of research before you consider using site cut poles in the dirt.
If you pour concrete footings and then put untreated poles on top of that you can be ok, but then you get none of the lateral support provided by poles in the ground, and you have to provide the lateral support by other means, which is not too difficult.
When you find out how much properly treated poles cost, you will investigate the alternatives, but I bet you will find that even though treated poles cost an arm and a leg, overall the cost of the building is lower using them. It reduces foundations costs, and reduces framing costs above.
good luck
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etisll40
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2014 07:44
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Thank you, I kinda felt something like telephone poles set in concrete would be the answer. I really think that using steel support might be the best, set in concrete, although unnatural, would be best? After that, the wood on my land would do the trick? Comments appreciated.
Thanks,
Ed
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2014 10:31 - Edited by: bldginsp
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I'm no expert on wood pole construction, but studied it a little, enough to decide it wasn't right for my particular situation. But it's good in some, and yours sounds like a candidate. But I've heard that you don't need to fill the whole hole with concrete, and it serves no advantage. It's just as strong without, and concrete doesn't slow the rot process. They say to just put a ring of concrete at the bottom of the pole for 18" or so, fill the rest with dirt. Not sure of the reasoning, but I suggest you research it. I think I read that concrete placed above frost can cause the poles to be heaved upward with soil freezing, not good.
Yeah steel would be great but it will cost you a lot. If you are building with permits you'll probably need an engineer. Treated poles are cheaper, and there are charts that show how thick, how deep, how high to set the poles etc. so the engineering is done for you.
If you found a bunch of steel used, or scrap, and got it cheap, and you can weld, or whatever, well, maybe.
And yes, use your site timber for the rest of the structure if you want to deal with getting a band saw lumber mill to cut it out or whatever.
I got about 30 3" schedule 40 galvanized steel electrical conduits pretty cheap on craigslist which I plan to use as permanent fence posts for an orchard. But that's a different world from two storey structural support.
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etisll40
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2014 10:42
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Thanks, still in the planning stage. Got Timber some cash and time ahead, so, just have to keep re working the ideas until I get a master plan dome. Then "just do it!"
Thanks Again.
Ed
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Don_P
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# Posted: 5 Oct 2014 21:50 - Edited by: Don_P
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The reason for concrete in the bottom of the hole is to provide a wide base for the post to sit on top of, to keep it from settling. Some post frame designs do incorporate a concrete collar or a slab at the surface which helps with the lateral loads on the posts. Post frame actually has higher floor framing costs due to the girders needed between posts to carry the floor(s) and roof, and remember those loads are travelling down the posts to that concrete footing, it needs to be wide enough not to sink under the post load in that particular soil and thick enough that the post cannot punch through it.
One way to do it is, after you have a basic plan, have a post frame company engineer it. For me the local truss shop also supplies post frame buildings and has engineers in house. They engineer the building and you buy the materials that they can supply from them.
I think steel has a whole lot going for it in a pier and beam or post frame type of foundation.
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etisll40
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# Posted: 6 Oct 2014 06:10
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Thanks, I thought for longevity the steel base frame would be interesting. I guess it all depends on cost and whether the site has value down the road. Lots to read about and think over. Thanks
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