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greatlakesgal
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2014 14:12 - Edited by: greatlakesgal
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I have an opportunity to put some work into an uninsulated-clapboard sided cabin to live in year round. The cabin is currently being used as a potting shed/storage and sits on a concrete slab. The roof was upgraded to a metal roof in the past 10 years, as was many of the exterior boards, framing and electrical. It is heated by a pot belly stove. Not sure what the exact measurements, but is probably 25' x 15'. There is 21" between the studs? It used to be a seasonal vacation cabin from the early 1970s. My grandparents retired in one for 30 years on the land next door to this one, though they added on and eventually made it into a standard house in the late 1990s.
I have tried to read up online as much as possible but was hoping to get some input from some folks as to where to go and where to start, as I am fairly clueless, so please forgive any use of wrong terms.
The main thing I was hoping do is insulate before next winter. I was wondering, do I need to wrap the inside in a vapor barrier before I put up insulation? Do I need to put anything between the insulation and the paneling/wall? What would be the least expensive and easiest to go up wall? An idea I had was to use these large construction site? cardboard sheets I found at recycling to staple on the walls? Would this work even behind the wood stove?
My next concern is the foundation that was laid 44 years ago when the cabin with built. The issue I have found is that when the snow melts or there is a hard rain, there is a spot in the middle of the cabin, at the back, that leaves a wet spot...at the most a quarter of an inch of water. Not a huge deal for me at this time, but in the future I would want to address it. Can I have new cement laid over the old? Do I need to tear up the foundation before I even finish the walls? What is the best route if in the future I decide to lay a floor over it?
Anything else I need to do to insure a somewhat comfortable abode?
Any other thoughts are greatly welcome and thanks for taking the time to read and for your help.
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Martian
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2014 14:39 - Edited by: Martian
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How much money do you have to spend? That's the first question. 
I redid an old house with cedar clapboard siding and no boxing...we sprayed 3.5" of foam everywhere and rocked over it. As for your water ingress, its most likely coming under the bottom plate...that needs to be sealed. Its pretty simple to jack up the house about a foot, and pour yourself a short stem wall with new anchors. That will help get above grade some. Then, add sill-seal and a treated base, set the house back down, and go to work. I'd raise the floor, by adding stringers, to bring it up to the new bottom plate height
Tom
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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2014 23:40
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You've apparently got pretty good snow loads, so this idea may not work in spring when all that slides. But think about gutters to run water farther from the cabin, and maybe add a little material sloping away on the gable ends. Pretty low investment to try before the foundation re-do.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 3 Feb 2014 13:17 - Edited by: bldginsp
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Martians idea to jack the building up is a good idea but I'm guessing you don't want to go that far. Here's a few ideas-
-it would be best to put a house wrap layer beneath the outside clapboards. This means removing them. Otherwise, you can just put insulation in the walls, but you may have drafts and the insulation and interior wall covering may get wet. You are converting a noninsulated building into an insulated one so you really need to address keeping outside moisture out. The building, as built, can get wet and then dry out with no problem because the walls are open and not sealed. Once you seal them up any moisture inside is trapped and will mold. Removing the clapboards, installing house wrap, then replacing the boards is essential for a dry, mold-free space. At the same time the windows should be properly flashed for the same reason.
-the water on the slab could be a serious problem if it is coming up through the slab. No easy way to prevent that, but the advice to lead rain water away from the house is best. If its just a leak you can fix that.
-once the outside is properly moisture sealed you can put sheetrock on the inside, or whatever other interior wall covering. You need to be careful about how far from the woodstove you put any combustible. If you can't find the manufacturers instructions on that particular stove, use 3 feet from any combustible unless you use a method to reduce the clearance. The local bldg dept will help you with that or an experienced contractor.
-not sure what a vapor barrier on the inside of the studs would do for you here. It would limit interior moisture from the house getting into the walls where it would condense, but this is usually a problem in ceilings not walls. It would keep outside moisture out of the house but not outside the wall and the insulation. Again, you need a moisture preventer outside the insulation.
-not sure your ceiling joists were designed to take the weight of both insulation and a ceiling covering. Again you are converting a shed to living space, you need to be sure what you do will work with the original simple construction. Good contractor, or bldg dept, can help here.
If there is not a toilet, shower, sink etc. you will need to cut the slab to instal. Big job. The electrical you show is surface mount. You will want to place it in the walls. Is there a sub panel in the building or only a single circuit? Does it have a large enough electrical supply for living, or will you need to instal new feeders to the building?
If you contact your local building dept. about this you might be opening a can of worms- they may not allow it or have severe restrictions on it. You might want to consult with a local contractor first to get a sense of what local rules are. Your call.
What do you think?
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