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Erik
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# Posted: 29 May 2021 04:49
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I’m building a hike in mountain shelter that’s 14’ x 14’ and I’m planning on using 16 adjustable deck piers evenly spaced. I’m in the temperate rainforests in the NW, do I need to put a footing pad underneath my adjustable deck piers?
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gwindhurst
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# Posted: 29 May 2021 08:20
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I'd remove all organic vegetation material down to virgin soil (sand/gravel/etc. whatever you have). Then line the hole with geotextile fabric and fill with crushed stone compacting as you fill. Place solid 4" concrete blocks on top of that then adjustable deck piers. Anticipate everything will take longer than you may think... That's a beautiful view! (in your other post) Good luck with your build.
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Erik
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# Posted: 30 May 2021 08:32
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Geotextile fabric, nice I’ll look that up. I bought some 2†concrete pavers that are 16â€x16†I was going to put under the piers. I’m hiking in to keep leveling the soil, and it sure has taken longer than I expected!
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 30 May 2021 20:54 - Edited by: gcrank1
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I built a 12x24 with a swiss chalet look so a 12x12 loft in the peak; bigger and heavier than I had expected to do.
Because 'it grew' as I went I had only used 'silo block' as the base pad, placed on the ground (it was on a sand & gravel hill in a woods) with various cement blocks to level out the joist box frame.
In 37 years I only had to shim one pad when the door started to drag on the threshold.
Far as I know that is called the most basic of a 'floating foundation' and Id do it again straightaway for a structure your size IF the soil beneath is suitable.
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maddiecycle
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# Posted: 31 May 2021 20:53
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I am building a 12x14 cabin (not hike in, and I have a tractor - you are hard core!)
I have a slope in 2 planes. The lowest corner is about 3 feet lower than the highest corner. I dug 6 holes 18 inch diameter 2 feet deep, put down landscape fabric, filled them with compacted jagged gravel with fines (used paver base material), put 16" tapered precast concrete blocks down and then 6x6 posts. Using some heavy duty bracing to keep things stable and sturdy. I have heavy clay soil. Fingers crossed this holds nice and even.
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Erik
Member
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# Posted: 1 Jun 2021 12:47
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Looks great, can’t wait to see how your project comes together. I’m trying to get my deck up, so I can keep the damp out (Temperate Rainforest), and I like a crawl space a lummox will fit in like me. I have hard clay too, the only thing I read about that gave me pause was lateral forces but I think you’ve braced yours plenty. I’d like to get my piers underneath my beams for aesthetic reasons, I’m hoping that doesn’t cause issues with the wall framing later as I want to have a ridge beam.
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maddiecycle
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# Posted: 1 Jun 2021 14:24
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Looking forward to seeing your progress!
Not sure I understand what you mean about a ridge beam and how it would relate to the piers and wall framing. You mean the ridge beam for the roof?
I am still finalizing the lateral bracing. It is very sturdy in the plane perpendicular to the joists. In the plane parallel to the joists, the one where one end is low and on posts and the other has the beam right on the footing, there is still some movement. Makes sense since the joists are set on top of the beams so the floor sheathing is not directly connected to the beams, and the only thing connecting the beams to the rim joists are hurricane clips at each one, and some toe nailing. I am going to tie in some diagonal 2x6s from the posts into the joist system using 5/8" lag bolts, which should solve the problem.
To get your piers under the beams, you could dig a much deeper hole and then have just the final couple of inches of the piers peeking out, and back-fill the rest of the hole. I would make the holes nice and wide and not back fill until everything is framed up, to allow micro-adjustments to the pier positions as you square up the floor.
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