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hueyjazz
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2014 12:16
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For those experience with the Housewarmer wall unit propane heater I've got some questions. I bit the bullet and order the unit.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631838_200631838?utm_source=Criteo& utm_medium=ActiveUsers&utm_campaign=neutral&utm_content=160x600
I plan to use a 100 pound Worthington tank
What did you use as a hose and regulator? Will this do it?
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57721-Pressure-Regulator-Hose/dp/B002UC8MJW/ref=pd_sim_sg _4?ie=UTF8&refRID=05FXRTRZPVK82SQYJG8C
Or should I get this?
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59333-Horizontal-Propane-Regulator/dp/B0024E6TX2/ref=pd_s im_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=05FXRTRZPVK82SQYJG8C
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2014 12:30
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11 inches of water column is the pressure that all household propane appliances operate at, and that's what you need. The first one you show doesn't say what it's pressure is other than 'Low Pressure Gas Regulator', the other one does say 11" water column. I think 'Low Pressure' refers to 11" water column, but not sure. Verify that and you are good to go.
But, watch your pipe sizing if you locate the propane tank a long distance from the heater. The longer the pipe, the lower it's capability to transport gas. If the pipe is no more than 20 feet it's not a problem, if more than that I'd do calculations to be sure your pipe diameter is adequate.
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2014 12:44
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The two stage is preferred for more accurate propane pressure regulating. Whatever you use mount it with the vent facing down.
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2014 15:54
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Just make sure that your tank and your hose match. 100 lbers usually use OPD fittings which is different from the 20-40 lbers. They are not interchangeable and if you have the small tank fitting on your hose you'll need to buy an adaptor.
that first camco looks like it's for 20 lbers.
the 2 stage has a pol fitting.
btw. Those tanks are 129 at TSC (tractor supply) and they have similar prices to amazon on all the pipes/hoses.
I used iron through the wall on my installs. Black iron pipes are available at big box stores and cheap. Get the right yellow goop and use all the muscle you have to tighten the bits.
my second (and third) installs went leak free
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hueyjazz
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2014 12:16
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Thanks for the help. This was good.
I can cut and thread my own black iron so I may go mostly this route. I will use a metal flex line and shutoff inside.
MtnDon, I did find you install on another website that was also helpful and the errant electric line you happen upon. (Which is also a concern of mine but I do have a fiber optic camera I can use. What do you guys use at the tank? I was thinking a gas rated rubber hose with the proper fittings.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2014 13:09 - Edited by: MtnDon
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That's what can happen when you decide to change the location of the heater.
I don't like running out in the night so we use an RV automatic changeover regulator. Two hoses from the regulator; one to each tank. The regulator itself mounts to the iron pipe. Match the tank end to the type needed.
If you found the heater install that same build thread has details on the regulator. Someplace in it, maybe listed in the index on the first posted message.
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hueyjazz
Member
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# Posted: 7 Nov 2014 11:57
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OK, thanks for all the help. You have been great TSC had the 100 lb. tank on sale and I bought it and got it filled. Got a cheapie pneumatic wheel two wheel dolly to move it. Gather up all my 1/2 black iron spares, some pipe and my tools. Truck is all packed for this weekend and between hunting I was going to install this weekend.
Got the unit in last night and reading through the documentation I found that I need a 36" clearance above the unit, 6" on the sides and 4" on the bottom from combustibles. The walls of my cabin are pine shiplap. Well it really doesn't state what a noncombustible is but I'm pretty sure pine board is.
I had intended to install this next to last year's project being my stone wall hearth that houses my wood stove. this is the focal point of my cabin and it is beautiful. I'm too far invested into the propane heater project to turn back but I don't want a cobb job either. Attached is a picture when I completed the hearth. Behind the woodstove where the barrister exist is where I had planned to put the direct vent heater. It really doesn't fit anywhere else due to windows, doors, utilities and furniture.
I mull in my head what to do. Cement board with tile on top of wall? Most likely would look like crap. Build a wall in front of the shiplap wall out of layers of fire retardant drywall. Not that aesthetic again but maybe I could make it work. I just don't see it though.
Any suggestions. I'm beside myself. HELP!!!
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2014 09:59
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I have a different propane unit, but the wall behind doesn't get that warm. The docs seem to be saying nothing combustible beside, below or above. Not behind. I think they're just trying to tell you not to put furniture to close, block the air intake at the bottom, nor overheat stuff above (tho I dry my cutlery above mine. and occasionally warm mittens).
you could cut out the shiplap where the heater goes and fit in cement board or drywall. Then tile with the same stuff as the base of your woodstove platform. Tie it in visually. Bit of trim. It would look great.
Of course I'm no designer. But from a workers perspective. It would be pretty easy to circular saw out the area and then fit drywall. Eh. Put some paint on it. Done.
Heck. You could probably prefinish the drywall and have it all ready to go before you head to camp. lol.
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Fanman
Member
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2014 12:53
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I'm coming a bit late to this discussion, but:
You must use a two stage regulator for an indoor appliance. The first regulator you show is not acceptable. The second is, but it might not fit inside the collar on the tank. Also, rubber hose is no good for a permanent installation. I have a two similar heaters in my house and all piping is copper tubing with flare fittings. I used separate first and second stage regulators from propanewarehouse.com. The first stage regulator is at the tank, and the second is on the wall of the house near the heaters.
These heaters are OK to mount directly on a combustible (i.e. wood) wall. The clearances they specify are for adjacent walls (like if you mount it in a corner) or shelves or curtains above.
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hueyjazz
Member
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2014 18:00
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Thanks much for all of your collective help. It was a great help
So two stage regulator Got it
100 lb tank TSC On sale Got it
Copper or black iron pipe.
Have experience and good luck w/ 1/2" black iron so with a shut valve, drip leg and a flex connector at either end I will use this means
Good to know I can mount on wood wall
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