|
| Author |
Message |
MtnMan
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Dec 2010 19:16 - Edited by: MtnMan
Reply
Greetings all,
It has been my dream to live in Alaska for most of my life. After being inspired very much by Richard Proenneke, I have decided that life is too short to not go after your dreams. I am planning a cabin that is of stick-built construction however after having had some experience with both log construction and stick. I would really appreciate any input from Alaskans especially those who use their cabins year-round. Permafrost must pose some construction problems as far as pouring footings, etc.
I am planning to live off-grid and heat with wood, cook with a kerosene stove, and use a 12 volt electrical system built with RV components. I want to use a 12 volt RV water system with a propane on demand water heater. With the permafrost situation up there, is a septic tank legal/suitable? I am not opposed to using a composting toilet but what about grey water? I am planning on having a water holding tank for fresh water as through my research I have learned that many Alaskans must get their water this way (having it hauled in by truck). If a well is possible and the local ground water fit for drinking I would like to use a 12 volt well pump and holding tank setup. In the winter, I would also supplement my water usage by melting snow for coffee-making or other cooking.
The battery system would be 4 or 6 golf cart batteries wired in series/parallel for 12 volts and many Ah. Charging would be using a briggs&stratton type engine connected to a car alternator and also supplementing that with solar as my budget and the time of year would allow.
Backup heat would be a vented propane wall heater (the unvented ones scare me).
That's about all I can think of for now. Thanks to all for any help.
Tyler
|
|
wildwood_1@char ter.net
|
# Posted: 17 Dec 2010 19:24
Reply
That is a brave move. Here is stress over a small cabin on land my mom has donated to the cause. Guess she feels sorry for me. I have spent all my savings on my daughter (currently just completed year long drug rehab).
I am in awe....
|
|
fpw
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Dec 2010 21:05 - Edited by: fpw
Reply
http://www.jenninewardle.com/
This couple are building a cabin in Alaska, lots of info on their blog. Including foundation systems to deal with permafrost and electrical systems.
|
|
cabingal3
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Dec 2010 22:34
Reply
i am jealous.i think this is a wonderful move.good luck and good for u.not alot can make a dream come true.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 19 Dec 2010 20:21
Reply
MtMan, a better way to charge your battery bank would be via a intelli-charger http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/inteli-power-rv-switcher-converter/1768 and this one is rated for 60 amps. I bought this for an enclosed trailer. It not only charges and maintains the batteries, it also is a clean source of DC p ower supply to run all your 12 accessories. Some items may be sensitive to DC ripple (12V radios, TV). This provides a nice clean DC and you can run it off of a small Honda EU2000i companion generator which can run that at about an idle and about 45db noise and sip fuel. Expect to pay around $900 for the Honda generator. Get the smart wizard for it also and this helps to keep your batteries from sulphating by hitting it with a higher charge rate for 15 minutes about once every 4 days or if you manually hit the button. Makes the batteries last longer to boot. You can add wind mills etc.
DO you own the l and already??? I know the state of Alaska sells land all the time online even. You can buy nice 5 acre lots even on a lake for $9-11,000. Alaska Dept of Mining ( http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/landsale/otc/index.cfm )
Pick an area, look at the plat map, click on buy. Done. I think taxes are near zilch. Some areas may be less prone to permafrost. I know the panhandle/juneau area is warmer, rocky glacial till soil etc.
|
|
MtnMan
Member
|
# Posted: 20 Dec 2010 12:52
Reply
toyota_mdt_tech,
I thought about your setup there and from a thermodynamics standpoint I just think that there are too many conversions in there for the system to be efficient. For $900 I can buy several alternators and several harbor freight 6.5hp engines and the mounting plates for them to make as many amps as I could possibly use. From what I've read about those engines, they are Honda clones and are quite efficient too. It just seems to me that going straight from an engine to 12 volts makes the most sense. Plus, I am also thinking from a standpoint of if a belt breaks, i can go to a local hardware or auto parts store and get a new one. Also, alternators and harbor freight engines are so cheap I can have a couple backups of each on hand and replace faulty parts as needed.
I am planning to have a couple of inverters at strategic places in the cabin. One large one for the washing machine (drying clothes will be by indoor clothesline or maybe a gas clothes dryer which uses much less electricity) and an inverter at the living room tv.
I have been to that website about the land many times to dream. I've done some more searching about pouring footings in permafrost and found some methods to use. I don't own the land yet because I need to finish school first so I can find a job up there. I am in the CAD field and my hope is that they will need drafters to help with the new natural gas pipeline that is going to begin in 2012, around the time I will graduate. Depending on where I need to move to work, I will buy the land then.
Thanks to everyone for all your interest and input!
Tyler
|
|
Rob_O
|
# Posted: 20 Dec 2010 18:24
Reply
Quoting: MtnMan I thought about your setup there and from a thermodynamics standpoint I just think that there are too many conversions in there for the system to be efficient.
I agree, but automotive alternators are not the best way to get the maximum life out of your batteries
The voltage regulator in your typical auto alternator is junk and you will want to get a more advanced charge controller. There are marine ones available, but they cost as much as everything else you need to build the generator set
Once I figure out a low cost solution to proper charge control I'll be building my own 12V generator set.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Dec 2010 22:11 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
Quoting: MtnMan toyota_mdt_tech, I thought about your setup there and from a thermodynamics standpoint I just think that there are too many conversions in there for the system to be efficient. For $900 I can buy several alternators and several harbor freight 6.5hp engines and the mounting plates for them to make as many amps as I could possibly use. From what I've read about those engines, they are Honda clones and are quite efficient too. It just seems to me that going straight from an engine to 12 volts makes the most sense. Plus, I am also thinking from a standpoint of if a belt breaks, i can go to a local hardware or auto parts store and get a new one. Also, alternators and harbor freight engines are so cheap I can have a couple backups of each on hand and replace faulty parts as needed.
OK, I was thinking in remote areas of Alaska, you wouldnt want something that you need a half dozen spares because of the unreliable or cheap factor. The automotive alternators provide a rapid charge. Great for keeping a battery charged, but junk for charging batteries, but to run down, re charge, your auto batteries life will be very limited. Inverter to run a washing machine? Lots of energy consumed there. A 1000 watt microwave on high will run a group 27 deep cycle stone dead in 20 minutes.
As intelli charger is designed to maintain batteries plus shock them to prevent sulfating. You can get the spendy marine application chargers (like poster mentioned) but those are ultra spendy. You mentioned cost, so I didnt bring it up.
The comment "for $900 I can buy several alternators and several harbor freight chinese knock off engines" in itself is silly. Why not just get the real deal in the first place. A Honda EU2000i weight 40 lbs, you have your intelli charger wired into the battery back, its tied into the 110V system. When you start the generator, its providing the 110VAC for your household AC items (uses an inverter to get you the 60Hz, so its ultra reliable) and your batteries are charging, plus your 12V power supply is working to satisfy any 12 volt needs beside battery charging.
Your method, pack in several 6.5 Chinese knock off Hondas, plus a few alternators (spares included) plus the board the engine and alternator is mounted to, wiring to the battery bank, the heavy charge rate a 60 amp alt will do right at first, probably end up with a slipping belt, a rapid charge which leads to just a surface charge instead of a deep charge (means it wont last long)
Usually, in Alaska, they get top quality stuff as running into town to buy more chinese knock off junk just isnt practical and equipment failure could sometimes mean life or death. Alaska is harsh, it can be so beautiful, or it can kill ya so quick.
I was a charging system specialist. I used to rebuild alternators for a commercial rebuilder (ever alternator ever made, I overhauled them many times over) I'm an auto tech by trade for 30 years, plus I'm a licensed HAM radio operator for almost 20 years. I'm not green here.
You mention thermodynamics. Have you ever felt the heat that is emitted from a Honda EU2000i? Its so cool, you will not even burn you hand by holding it in front of the exhaust 3" away. It runs so cool, in snow, it took about 6 hours running for it to melt the snow I had it on. It sips fuel (inverter allows it to run at a high idle) while you auto alternator will crank regardless of load on alternator.
PS, the Honda EU2000i doenst have a drive belt to break, so no run into town would be necessary. But to load up on spare alternators and engines, but have one belt on hand seems silly.
Real world scenario, you will find my set up to be much better "thermodynamics". And if the intellicharger was mounted inside, the small amount of warmth is provided could add to heating the heating load.
I have this set up in operation and I can tell you it works flawless and is so simple, efficient and low operating cost. Initial cost is a smidge, but thats it.
|
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 22 Dec 2010 22:19
Reply
Speaking of thermodynamics, here is my compact floresent lighting which sips power from either the generator ir the Xantrax 2000 inverter (1000 watts continous) All the comforts of home and you cant even hear the Honda gennie running.
cabinnight1.jpg
| 
cabinnight2.jpg
|  | |
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Dec 2010 12:26
Reply
Which would give you better thermodynamics:
1) Running a gasoline engine powered 110VAC generator to run 110VAC appliances and a converter (intelli-charger) to charge 12volt battery bank and run 12V accessories
2) Running a gasoline engine powered 12V generator to run automotive type alternators to charge a battery bank and power 12V accessories, then an inverter to run off the batteries (2000 watts) to run 110VAC appliances
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Dec 2010 13:29
Reply
I second the idea from toyota_mdt_tech about the battery charger. It is very similar to a couple chargers I own made by Iota Theirs also have a "wizard" like device. The Iotas can also be stacked. If the need arises for more power two identical units can be coupled with another plugin device. Made in America too.
As much as I like to make/build things I also like to keep things simple if I can. That makes it easier for the folks around me.
A Honda generator is one of the nicest for quiet. That is a big thing in my book too.
The second thing I have to add is a very personal choice. I prefer to use 120 VAC for most uses. The choices of appliances and devices is much greater with 120 VAC. You can buy a cheapie if you want or you can go for higher quality without having to hunt so much as you might with 12 VDC items. That's my personal opinion arrived at after 30 some years of extensive RV use and a few years of recent off grid cabin living.
|
|
|
