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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Skid size and blocks
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Islandtrekker
Member
# Posted: 5 May 2021 01:36
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Hi all....new to this forum. I am planning to build a 10'x16' cabin and was planning to place it on 2 skids on concrete blocks. My first question is should I use 4 - 2x8's for each skid or go with 4 - 2x10's? My thoughts were to place each skid in 1' from the edge and use 4 concrete blocks to support each skid. Thoughts on skid size and does 4 blocks per skid sound reasonable?

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 5 May 2021 05:59
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2x8s and 3 blocks should be fine. 4 wouldnt hurt.

WILL1E
Moderator
# Posted: 5 May 2021 08:50
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I think (4) 2x8's would be overkill for a 10 wide building. Here in WI our codes start at 16' wide, and their lowest spec is (3) 2x8's using 800psi Fb lumber with column/pad spacing every 7'8".

Might be easier, more economical and just as strong to use (2) 4x6"x16' PT timbers sitting on those concrete pads. This is what they use on all those roadside shabins you see. Depending what your planning on doing for the floor joist, you may want to add a 3rd one down the middle to prevent sag/bounce.

Just
Member
# Posted: 5 May 2021 09:38 - Edited by: Just
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I like to use shed pads (12x16x3) two per pier. On a cabin your size 4per side none in the centre , ( no way to shim centre pads . 2 -6 x 6 for the skids . 2x8 floor joist .

Islandtrekker
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2021 00:26
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Thanks for the input on the skids.....as for pulling the skids in a foot on each side, I read somewhere that the cantilever shouldn't be more than the size of the floor joists. So if using 2x8's for the floor joists I shouldn't pull the skids in more than 8". Did I misread this? Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks for your help.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2021 08:11
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I believe that's true about the cantilever but you dont state the floor joist size.

I like pulling in the blocks/skids because when there well under the building it keeps them away from the drip line. When you get blowing water on your blocks your structural skids can get wet. That's not good.

Aklogcabin
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2021 11:28
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Why not just put the skids under the walls ? Then the wall is 100 % supported. The overhang should protect your wall.
I like to put a galvanized metal band around the bottom that covers everything but mostly for insect, pest control.
I use the 6" wide x 50' or 100' roll. Installed on the bottom of the wall studs and bottom wall plate before siding is done. Then stand wall up. There's also galvanized metal z
"Z" strips is what I've referred to them before make to cover exposed edges similar to how 2 story homes with T1-11 siding are used.
Your only spanning 10' so getting floor joists is easy. I just feel that putting the walls, actually pretty much the whole building weight directly on to the foundation is best and easy to do.
Some folks finish off with a trim board. Caulked n painted.
Especially if you wanted to be able to move it.

Islandtrekker
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2021 11:33
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Brettny.....will the ends of the skids not be flush with the cabin and exposed to weather or do you pull those in as well?

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2021 12:06
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No dont pull the ends of the skids in, just the blocks on that end. Yes they will be exposed if you dont skirt the place but it is a very small area vs the whole side of the skid.

Eve overhang only helps with vertical rain. Even then it hardly takes a breeze to make the whole wall wet.

Islandtrekker
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2021 12:55
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Aklogcabin......I was concerned that the full span of the 10' wide with no centre skid would make the floor sag/ bouncy over time. What size floor joist would I need to use to span the full 10 with no sag or bounce. I don't mean what's to code....I find that often that is to bare minimum. I want to be able to jump up and down or dance in the middle of the cabin without it sagging....lol

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 8 May 2021 14:20
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I wouldnt use a center skid for 10' wide. 2x8 floor joists should be fine. I have a 10' wide shed with 2x6 floor joists and the things on the walls rattle a bit when you walk heavy.

This is also where pulling the skids in from the walls helps..your shortening your span in the center.

Aklogcabin
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2021 11:22
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Hello island, I would use 2x8 on 16" center. A 2x6 will be pretty bouncy.

Steve_S
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2021 19:47
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I recall a sort of "rule" regarding skids, not sure if I have it right, maybe it will trigger someone's memory.

6X6X6
Using 6x6 Skids, they should be 6' oc apart and use 2x6 Joists.

If you set the skids onto Cottage Blocks (18x18x6) or something else that may hold dampness, ensure that water can drain away from the skid and provide a barrier of some sort. In the old days, we'd use a roofing shingle but something similar would be prudent to prevent any wicking.

I also agree that with 10' span, using 2x8 joists at 16oc will provide a solid floor, as well as something to carry walls on top.

NorthRick
Member
# Posted: 10 May 2021 19:40
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Quoting: Islandtrekker
Thanks for the input on the skids.....as for pulling the skids in a foot on each side, I read somewhere that the cantilever shouldn't be more than the size of the floor joists. So if using 2x8's for the floor joists I shouldn't pull the skids in more than 8". Did I misread this? Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks for your help.


You haven't said what your snow load is. That's a critical piece of information. I'm in an area that can see 70 pounds per square foot of snow on the roof. How I build will be different than someone in, say Georgia.

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