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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Sub Panel Questions
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IcutMetl
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 06:28
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Good morning, everyone!

One of the first projects I want to dig into at my cabin will be adding an electrical system for use with a generator. I want to add some plugs and a couple of light fixtures- nothing crazy. I will use a sub-panel like the one in the attached picture fed by the 30a/240v feed from an inverter generator. Since the cabin doesn't have a utility/generator shed, I plan on putting a power pole in the vicinity of where I envision a shed being where I can hook my generator into. I'm semi-handy with basic electrical and have two good friends that are both electricians.

My question is pretty basic- could I just use gray exterior conduit to run the wire out thru the exterior wall down to earth where I will bury the direct burial cable over to the pole? Any pictures or tips of how any of you have accomplished this would be helpful and appreciated!
Screenshot_2023121.png
Screenshot_2023121.png


Brettny
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 09:51
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That pannel looks fine. Are you sure your inverter generator outputs 240v? Most dont.

I'm doing essentially the same as you are. Pannel in the cabin buried to a small generator/tool shed. I'm going to stub up the NM-B with conduit into the side of the shed, into a junction box where il transfer from MN-B to a section of RV wire with a 120v 30a plug on it to plug into my inverter generator. Mine also has remote start so I can start from inside the cabin.

I'm running very few outlets and just a few exterior 120v flood lights. All the generator power goes through the transfer switch on the inverter so anything 120v can also be powered by the generator by simply remote starting the generator.

ICC
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 11:20
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Quoting: IcutMetl
I want to add some plugs and a couple of light fixtures- nothing crazy.


With that statement about modest electrical needs, I wonder why you want to bother with a 240 volt generator. You could use a 120 volt output and jump, or back-feed, the two sides in the panel.

-izzy

gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 11:39 - Edited by: gcrank1
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The box looks like overkill to me, though not expensive. Do you really need more than 4 circuits? More than 2?
I admit the big box gives you plenty of room for growth.
There are smaller auxiliary boxes that can suit your stated purpose. Im saving a 2 circuit box for just such in the finalized plan. It also has the external throw lever on/off.
Another alternative you might consider is the 'All In One/aio' self contained 'solar generators'. They have all the taps you need to plug various stuff into, a lithium battery, internal charger for off solar, car or gen all in a handsome case and not very heavy. Fwiw, the name 'solar generator' is a misnomer unless hooked up to separately available solar, its a marketing ploy.
If I was starting anew now one would make a lot of sense.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 11:44
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15a or 20a single breakers are about $7. I'm putting a circuit in each room. It really sucks to try and add circuits later if you alreaty had the walls open. Alot of work to save maybe $40.

909
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 13:21
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My flushmount ceiling / soffit lights are rated at 10W, but with a LED dimmer, they only consume 1 watt each on the lowest setting.

I have 12 outdoors ( 1 circuit ) , 8 indoors ( 1 circuit ) and about 8 - 10 receptacles (1 circuit) for a total of 3 circuits.

Between a small fridge / freezer and a couple of electronics and lighting, it doesn't take much to keep the system going .

IcutMetl
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 16:24
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Quoting: Brettny
That pannel looks fine. Are you sure your inverter generator outputs 240v? Most dont


The one I am looking at does- Ai Power GXS7100D.

IcutMetl
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 16:25
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Quoting: ICC
With that statement about modest electrical needs, I wonder why you want to bother with a 240 volt generator. You could use a 120 volt output and jump, or back-feed, the two sides in the panel.

-izzy


I know I don’t have to, but I can, and I want to.

IcutMetl
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 16:28
Reply 


Thanks everyone for your replies. I’m really only curious about the conduit from the panel to the trench for the direct burial cable- I added the rest of the info simply for context.

ICC
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 18:33 - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: IcutMetl
only curious about the conduit from the panel to the trench for the direct burial cable-


that is fine.
big advantage to the genny shown is remote start (to me) It'll likely use more fuel than a smaller genny, even when only supplying the same amount of power.

-izzy

gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 13 Dec 2023 19:01
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I so hate to listen to a gen to run a couple led lights and maybe charge a phone.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 14 Dec 2023 06:13
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Quoting: IcutMetl
Thanks everyone for your replies. I’m really only curious about the conduit from the panel to the trench for the direct burial cable- I added the rest of the info simply for context

You would just stub the conduit into the ground with a sweep going towards the spot your generator would sit.

I quickly looked at the specs for that generator and it's got 240v plugs but only outputs 120v.

Brettny
Member
# Posted: 14 Dec 2023 06:20
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Quoting: gcrank1
I so hate to listen to a gen to run a couple led lights and maybe charge a phone

100ft of cable and a inverter generator in a shed and you wont hear it run. I have to stick my head out the window with even a small radio playing low to see if mine is on with no generator shed.

jsahara24
Member
# Posted: 14 Dec 2023 08:35
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Quoting: Brettny
You would just stub the conduit into the ground with a sweep going towards the spot your generator would sit.


That is what I did with direct burial wire....

Quoting: Brettny
I quickly looked at the specs for that generator and it's got 240v plugs but only outputs 120v.


That's strange, I don't understand how that works....

Tim_Ohio
Member
# Posted: 14 Dec 2023 09:47 - Edited by: Tim_Ohio
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I did this in a similar manner and in an overkill manner.
I set my box up with a 240 volt panel so that I could split or balance the load on each side and had the option of running either a 240 volt, 30 amp feed or a 120 volt feed from two different generators. I mostly use the 120 volt 15 amp feed, utilizing the same plug type of plug, but with a wire jumper inside the plug to distribute service to both sides of my small panel. The cabin has a receptacle on the outside of the wall from the panel inside and I can connect either plug into it. This allowed me not to leave a generator at the property and to keep all of the wiring inside, except for the grounding wire, which runs between two ground rods set 6 or more feet apart outside the cabin. Also, a small mineral wool insulated shed with baffle walls isolates the generator from noise pollution, especially in the summer, when all the windows are open.

Mostly, I did it this way so that if I sold the place, it would allow someone to do an addition or whatever they wanted in the future, without having to mess with electrical upgrade. I get by with the 2400 watt inverter generator while awake, then 12volt battery on an inverter through the night to charge a phone or have lighting if I get up, for some reason. The grounding rods outside also allow the generator to be connected to them when in use, if necessary.

Here is a link to my post back when I did it. There are pics.

https://www.small-cabin.com/forum/3_10683_0.html

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 25 Dec 2023 20:41 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: IcutMetl
My question is pretty basic- could I just use gray exterior conduit to run the wire out thru the exterior wall down to earth where I will bury the direct burial cable over to the pole?



No issues at all, be perfect, run either THHN or THHW wire of I have used UF or underground feeder. I go bigger on conduit, ie 1". I use conduit to protect even UF wire if I dig.

Use a conduit body where it comes out the wall and goes down and another one at the other end where it goes into the wall. If its a long exposed run on the siding, get a sliding coupler to allow for expansion/contraction. Short run, no issue. Also if frost heave can move building or wiring a little, add slider. If not, can pull joints apart
Conduit body
Conduit body
Slider (RH side goes up)
Slider (RH side goes up)


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