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PlicketyCat
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# Posted: 28 Jun 2011 17:13
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For those of us who aren't professional architects or carpenters, there's one simple tip that will make your cabin exponentially more easy to build... designing it on a 2:4:8 grid. Designing on a grid also reduces materials waste, which means less expense, and less time spent during framing and finishing.
Common sheet goods are 4' x 8'. Most common dimensional lumber comes in 8', 10', 12' or 16'. Common sizes of materials are always less expensive, easier to locate, and nearly always guaranteed to be in stock. If you design your cabin on a 2:4:8 grid, you know that 4x8 sheet of OSB will perfectly span and align with your stud/joist/rafter with the absolute minimum of cutting... which saves A LOT of time and headaches on a DIY.
Example:
A 16' wall that is 8' high -- you can use 2 @ 8' or 1@ 16' boards for the plates, and 4 sheets of OSB sheathing exactly... either 4 run vertically (4x4=16) or 2 courses of two run horizontally (2x8=16). No measuring, no cutting.
A 14' wall that is 8' high, on the other hand, you'd still need the same number of boards and sheets, but you'd have to cut (and possibly waste) 2' of materials. Ripping OSB or plywood straight on the long edge is not fun or easy in the field.
When you add openings for windows and doors (or stairwells), consider how they will fall on the grid and how many cuts they will require in any sheet goods. Moving a window or door just a couple of inches could allow you to end a sheet right at the jamb, and would only require one cut on one side instead of two or more cuts on both sides.
Also, the standard 16" on center spacing only evenly aligns with 4' and 8'... if you have a design that doesn't divide by 4' or 8' you're going to get into some fun measuring and math when it comes time to layout your studs and joists. If you mess that up, none of your sheathing or finish panels will align properly/evenly, you'll need to make lots of extra cuts which will add time and expense to the project, etc etc.
So, if you plan to use 16" oc, stick with 4' or 8' dimensions for your own sanity. If you're willing to upgrade from 2x4s to 2x6s (or larger) you can increase the spacing to 24" oc and utilize the 2' grid again... just remember that it might mean cutting a panel, so see if you can either make it come out even or use that off-cut somewhere else.
Since most of us are building these by ourselves, in our spare time, in less than convenient locations, with a limited budget it pays in several ways to make it easier on ourselves :)
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 28 Jun 2011 19:20
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Good job cat , sept in canada ,10 sq. meters is the new norm , works out to somthing like 8x13.5 ,stupid law makers!!!!!
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PlicketyCat
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# Posted: 28 Jun 2011 20:14
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True, you have to make your grid fit the sizes common building materials in your location. Of course, it would be nice if the common materials in your location are standardized between materials and evenly divisible by the same number(s)... it sure is a pain when plywood and sheetrock are two different dimensions, and lumber yet another! And we won't even discuss when the lawmakers cook up a building code that mandates some funky size that isn't evenly divisible or the same as the available materials. Like we all enjoy cutting 2 5/16" off everything LOL!
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EdOriginal
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2011 19:31
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I've sold job costing software to construction companies for 30+ yrs. One trait of "track" (builders that build the same houses over and over again and are PROFITABLE) is to build everything to fit industry standard dimensions (ie 4, 8, 10 foot lengths) Covers almost everything in construction (flooring, drywall, carpet, lumber, etc).
Three objectives:
1) Less waste
2) Less labor & time (cutting, sawing, etc).
3) Less costs.
Smart builders make rooms (floor plans) to fit those dimensions).
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PlicketyCat
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# Posted: 31 Jul 2011 20:24
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Another reason why the actual construction team really likes to have input during the design phase. I can't tell you how many times I've flipped through plan books and seen weird and wonky sizes and layouts. Sure the room might look cool, or magically fit 300 sq ft of kitchen into 150... but if you can't build it, or you waste oodles of time and material building it then it's just not worth it. When I was in Design School (for graphics), I'd often pop in to see what the Architecture and Interior design students were up to... I'd look at their floor plans and their cute little cardboard & balsa models, and then ask them if they'd ever done any sort of construction. Where were they planning to put X (some necessary behind the scene mechanics) and if they really expected custom built everything with their weird sizes and layouts.
Try explaining that the uber-stylish fireplace, built-in, media center, focal wall thingy wasn't properly supported on the framing and would require materials that weren't industry standard and a gajillion cuts and joins. Some got it, but most just looked at me while the crickets chirped in the background.
Tract housing may not be the most unique and stylish designs ever, but there's a reason why they're so popular. Not only are they much easier to build, that also translates into much more affordable!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2011 15:48 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Plickety, another trick, gable ends under 4 feet, you can use the parts of the sheet you cut off for the roof pitch, at the opposite corner.
So when sheeting the top of the wall at gable end (attic/loft area), all the scraps you cut off for the pitched roof, flip over and it will be a perfect fit for the opposite side or other end (opposite gable end).
So a 16 foot wide cabin, with 4 foot high gable ends (around a 7/12 pitch) requires only 4 4X8 sheets. And the pitched angle cut part is already cut for the opposite side. :D
If you are using T1-11, natually, you sheet from the corner in which you pulled your measurements from. This way all the grooves in T1-11 align. But going smooth T1-11 can lead to even less waste. My next one will be grooveless. You can end up with more waste if you are aligning grooves.
I dont know if this made an sense. But it sure worked out perfect on my first build.
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PlicketyCat
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# Posted: 2 Aug 2011 02:15
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We did the flip trick to fill in our gable ends, too, and only ended up with 3.5" of waste per sheet (which we actually used to shim under a 2x4 elsewhere :) ).
Aligning groves and patterns can lead to a ton of waste in siding, wallpaper, carpet, tile, linoleum, etc. Either get plain, a really fine high-frequency of repeat pattern, or intentionally lay it out not to align (like parquet). I had to run the 3-foot triangle of grooved T1-11 at the top my gable above the bedroom windows horizontally instead of vertically to minimize waste, and since it's at a visual break in the wall anyway (the windows) a little z-flashing and some trim makes it look like I mean it that way all along ;)
There is no sin in cheating a bit when you need to LOL
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