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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Post Frame Swaying
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turbozee
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# Posted: 11 Aug 2025 06:01pm - Edited by: turbozee
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As I am installing the roof strapping, I am noticing the building is swaying in the width direction. It is because the legs are essentially a pinned connection to the piers and there is no bracing at the top. I do not want to reduce my door opening. Any suggestions on what I can do? Should I make L brackets with 16" legs made from 3/8x4" steel flat bars? Any other ideas?

turbozee
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# Posted: 11 Aug 2025 06:02pm
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20250810_181056.jpg
20250810_181056.jpg


MtnDon
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# Posted: 11 Aug 2025 06:07pm
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I would need more and better information regarding how this building is constructed before I could sensibly offer any advice. Pictures might help understand what you have.

MtnDon
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# Posted: 11 Aug 2025 06:12pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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OK, that image was not posted when I started a response.

Wall sheathing panels (osb, plywood...) on the end wall would stiffen it some.

Was this built from a plan? Usually I would expect to see a brace panel on both sides of the large door opening.

How deep are the posts set?

turbozee
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# Posted: 11 Aug 2025 08:07pm
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The posts are anchored to piers using simpson post brackets and 5/8" anchors. The piers are pinned to bedrock just below the grade.

Do you have a picture of a brace panel? I think that is what I missed.

Not built from a plan. I drew it up based on learning stuff on my own and making several other buildings at my recreational property. This is my first post frame.

Brettny
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# Posted: 12 Aug 2025 05:38am
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You have sono tubes with wood posts on them? That connection is typicaly prety weak. Diagonal bracing will help. Simpson makes a metal strap with tons of holes in it. It comes in a roll and I dont think cost very much.

Adding sheething will help but if no sheething and just useing metal siding prob wont help to much.

Nobadays
Member
# Posted: 12 Aug 2025 09:14am
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Quoting: Brettny
Diagonal bracing will help. Simpson makes a metal strap with tons of holes in it. It comes in a roll


This. I built a large pole shop several years ago and this strapping was supplied by the pole building company. The plans indicated an "X" of strapping on each side of the roof, as well as the end and both sides of the building.... front was two large rool-up doors. Doesn't take all the sway out but definitely helps. Sheathing will do the rest.

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 12 Aug 2025 06:39pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Quoting: turbozee
Do you have a picture of a brace panel? I think that is what I missed.


Here is a link to a Simpson article on lateral bracing for walls. It is a few years old but the methods are still valid. Note that these require a bottom plate and solid foundation connection to really work best, or at all.

And an article about pole barn design by a company that designs and sells pole barns. Worth a read IMO.


Simpson also has the StrongWall Portal Wall system that can be used on garage door walls to supply very good bracing. These only utilize about 10-12 inches of space. But need a solid foundation connection.


*****************
FWIW, years ago I built a smaller (12 x 16) pole barn-type structure. Wood poles set 42" into the soil. I made it very stiff, with no noticeable sway in winds, by framing between the posts on the closed (12 foot) end; 2x4 studs 16" OC with a lower plate that did not quite sit on the ground. The inside of the framing was sheathed with 7/16" OSB and nailed according to the schedule laid out in the IRC. I did the same thing on one of the long walls over a distance of 8 feet. The rafters were also OSB sheathed to make a diaphragm that resisted "twisting the box", if you get what I mean. That barn had a 6-foot-wide door and a 3-foot door in the other long wall. Metal ribbed panels for roofing over the OSB and on all outside wall surfaces. metal 6 foot door and 36" inch door.

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