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alkrjohnson
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# Posted: 23 Feb 2026 02:18pm - Edited by: alkrjohnson
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Hey there. I have been visiting the site for several years admiring the builds and advice. I started a new cabin build on property of my uncle’s where we hunt. I live about an hour drive one way and was looking at options for staying overnight or the weekend. I wanted more than a tent, so I started building an 8x16 cabin/bunk house about a month ago. I will post pictures here and hopefully can ask for advice during my build.
Foundation 1
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Foundation 2
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Foundation 3
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Foundation 4
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alkrjohnson
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# Posted: 23 Feb 2026 02:24pm
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More pictures…
Flooring 1
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Flooring 2
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Flooring 3
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alkrjohnson
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# Posted: 23 Feb 2026 02:28pm
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More pics.
Joist
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Start of subfloor
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Anchoring tposts
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Completed subfloor
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alkrjohnson
Member
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# Posted: 23 Feb 2026 02:47pm - Edited by: alkrjohnson
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You can probably tell from pictures, but the foundation is 6x6 posts sitting on solid concrete blocks. The blocks were leveled and sit on compacted, crushed stone. The posts do not sit directly on the blocks. I cut 10” roll flashing and bent it to form a termite barrier and barrier between the posts and blocks. The posts sit on the blocks well, but I did have to slip a shingle or two under the post on a few blocks. Every thing leveled up nicely.
Joist framing is 2x6 with blocking. I doubled up the end joist, as I am planning to used a ridge beam. I should have added double rim joist but did not think about it until after the fact. I used rafter ties and toe nailed the joists to the 6x6s. In the corners, I anchored the 6x6 posts with 5 foot tposts, each secured with two 4” structural screws.
Subfloor is 3/4 inch plywood. I used Reflectix as a barrier between the joist and plywood. I went an extra step. Rather than stapling the barrier to the joists, I used Gorilla glue contact adhesive and glued the barrier to the plywood. The glue is permanent and water resistant. Hopefully this will help prevent any future sags or moisture issues with the barrier.
Everything to this point is pressure treated lumber and galvanized nails or screws.
Any thoughts on what I have done so far is appreciated.
I started wall framing this past weekend so I will have more pictures soon.
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spencerin
Member
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2026 09:28pm
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Looking forward to seeing more pictures and you progress!
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2026 10:21pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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This is going to be sooo much better than tent living!
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 28 Feb 2026 11:26am
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Looking good. A few things I wish I had considered at that stage: any plumbing, electrical, propane etc that may run under the cabin. Placement of things like a heavy wood stove, windows and door etc.
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alkrjohnson
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# Posted: 7 Mar 2026 09:06pm
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Two weekends of framing have got me to this point. Biggest challenge so far was getting the two LVLs beams in place for the ridge beam. I am finishing up the framing with the windows but had to stop due to rain. 80% chance of rain tomorrow so probably will not get to work until next weekend.
I hope to finish the framing and siding next week then on to roof framing.
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DRP
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# Posted: 8 Mar 2026 08:04pm - Edited by: DRP
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Our initial shed was 8x12 while we built the house, this looks uptown  .
I'm surprised this required 2 LVL's.
For next time, studs run unbroken from floor to roof, most importantly for a heavily loaded column like the LVL supports, they should run full unbroken length from floor to beam. The 8' platform framed box is for when there is a ceiling. What they are trying to avoid is that hinge in the gable ends at the 8' level.
I brace all sides with sheathing or full height diagonal boards, get the roof dried in and then drop back to siding. On this you could run some 12' boards across the eave studs, poke them 2' out on each side and secure planks on them for walk boards while building the roof.
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