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Ethan123
Member
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2026 06:24pm
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Hey everyone, hoping for some advice on insulating a 10x10 bunkie in ontario. 2x4 framing on ceiling and walls, shingled roof so it's all already constructed (ie. i'd have to insulate the roof/ceiling from the inside).
I plan to be up a lot for 3 seasons, with occasional winter use. Heat isn't a huge concern for me: i winter camp a lot. plan on having a small wood stove. i do want to insulate, but am worried about moisture retention/possible mould growth.
My current plan is:
- floor is already insulated so not doing anything about that
- r14/15 fiberglass with warm side moisture barrier in the 2x4s on the walls - possibly considering rigid insulation here though?
- same insluation plan for the ceiling, OR adding 2 inches of furring to be able to hit r22 up there. again, also kinda considering rigid insulation there too.
obviously i haven't done this before, so any advice or experience would be welcome - thanks a bunch!!
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gcrank1
Moderator
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# Posted: 7 Oct 2026 07:08pm
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With a wood stove (which takes up a pretty good bit of space with proper clearances) in only a 10x10 it isn't going to be hard to heat.
Fwiw, we had a 365ish sf self built cabin for over 30 years with a small wood stove, 1" blue DOW styro under floor, on walls and NO insulation on the Cath ceiling at all. We were comfortable. The wood heat cooks the moisture out, we had to keep a kettle on the stove for some humidity and it also meant we had hot water for utility use.
We also Had to keep a window open a bit to not deplete the oxygen! Imo that is a more common problem than CO, but do have a CO alarm too.
You may want to use it as is for a year or 2 before committing to insulating? And if you do put something in the walls (work and expense) you will have to put up inside walls to cover it (more work and expense) and those covered cavities will be a great place for bugs and mice......
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2026 11:48am
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Fiberglass will be fine on the walls. Save the rigid foam board for the ceiling. Less air gaps around your foam means less moisture can get into the roof. I would fill the ceiling bays then cap the rafters with 1in foam board and call it a day.
Dont forget floor insulation and air sealing. The floor insulation helps alot more than you think.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 9 Oct 2026 09:52pm
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Moisture barrier is the answer. Seal it up with extra care. Everything taped (I even taped the staples).
However, sealing it like that will cause backdraft issues with a wood stove. You will need to make sure you have a fresh air intake for your stove.
That will take care of moisture issues.
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Astr
Member
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# Posted: 22 Oct 2026 10:02am
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"Fur out the ceiling for sure. Heat rises, and R22 will make a huge difference with a wood stove.
Rigid foam on the walls and ceiling over the studs (before drywall) is a pro move, it kills thermal bridging and acts as its own vapor barrier.
If you're going with fiberglass, skip standard poly and use a smart vapor retarder like MemBrain. It lets the walls dry out if moisture gets trapped. And since you leave for weeks at a time, make sure it can breathe when it's cold and empty, or you'll come back to mold."
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