|
| Author |
Message |
zoodlemaker
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Nov 2011 07:58
Reply
Hi all, what a wonderful forum!
I'm building an outhouse using 7/16" chip board for the walls. For the door, I've cut it out of my front board and just plan on framing it and using it in the same place it was cut from.
I suspect I need to pare down the door size or it will bind. Is there a set clearance? At the moment, it's 1/8" smaller on all sides due to kerf, but how much more clearance should I leave, 1/4" on each side?
Much thanks and kind regards.
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Nov 2011 10:44 - Edited by: MtnDon
Reply
The clearance will depend in part on the thickness of the door? How are you framing it? If framing with 2x4 as in building a wall the best way to gain swing clearance is to plane the edge with the latch (not the hinge side) to a bevel. Otherwise you need a very large gap .
Wish I had a photo to illustrate what I mean.
If it is a 2x4 framed door with the hinge pins on the outside, the inner edge of the door framing will hit the door jamb as the door opens unless that edge is beveled or the gap is large. If yoy have a power hand planer make the door with a gap of maybe 1/8 to 3/16. Be sure to set any nails or screws deep into the edge and then plane to fit after the door is hung.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Nov 2011 13:55 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
Frame it with the studs (the door itself) on their sides (flat) and tighten the corner up with the Stimpson strong ties/metal corners, then screw the panel onto it. It will be rock solid. Add horizontal or an X member to keep it from turning into a parallelogram. As for your hinges, make the hinge joint over the wall back far enough or the door wont open as far or will bind. The use some 5/4 cedar for a flange/trim.
|
|
soundandfurycabin
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Nov 2011 18:52
Reply
Or add a frame of 2x4's to stiffen the door, but make the frame slightly larger than the opening. Attach the door so it sits on the outside face of the opening rather than right in it. Then if the hinges sag a bit, the door won't bind.
|
|
zoodlemaker
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Nov 2011 07:31
Reply
Thank you so much for your quick replies!
I'm delighted to say I've had success the first go around! I framed the 'door' with 1x3 strapping, both sides around the edge, keeping the strapping back about 1/4" or 3/8" just in case I need to trim. I also framed the rough opening.
Placed my framed door in it's place, a few wedges across the bottom to keep it off the floor, attached my 3 butt-hinges on the house frame, then all 3 on the door (all this on my own, adding a fun challenge to keep the door from toppling over)..............prepared myself for disappointment and my door swung open and closed!
I'll probably attach a cross piece to prevent warping.
Much thanks, very appreciated.
|
|
goodsgardensheds
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Nov 2011 05:21
Reply
Hi...
So, it turns out your house is solid chip board construction. And actually everything under the board and lath looks in decent shape. Screw 1x3's for strapping/studs.... Taking off the backs isn't that hard. I basically tilted the seats forward so they rested on their fronts, took the backs off, screwed the plywood down, screwed the shaker to the plate, and then reinstalled the seat back. It's just a standard piece of 1x4 SPF framing lumber, kerfed, meaning there are grooves cut into it about halfway through with a table saw every 1 1/2". I've seen this done with 2x4s too - which is really impressive - but with the grooves in the wood, it bends surprisingly easy.
Cheers!!
|
|
|
