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45north
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# Posted: 30 Dec 2011 01:10
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In my ground floor I have a Blazeking classic placed just off the center of the room. The base of the stovepipe in question has a ring or collar on it with holes where I have anchored it to the concrete floor. Up the pipe about 6 ft. the pipe Y's off down into the top of the woodstove collar. The pipe continues up threw a hole in the floor surrounded by a metal grate, (picture included) and will end up through the roof. This pipe is 9 inch O.D. and is 5/16 inch thick. I need to weld on the 10 ft piece to the final length 2 ft. past the peak of the roof. The opening in the rafters for the pipe is 20 inches X 20 inches, I would like to put a piece of insulated double walled pipe like metalbestos with a 10 inch I.D. and sleeve the steel pipe with the metalbestos pipe where it passes though the roof rafters.
Will this work or should I try something else.
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Martian
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# Posted: 30 Dec 2011 07:59
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I would think that should work for insulating the rafters; especially since by the time you get that far away from the stove, there isn't going to be that much heat. It looks like you'll have 2-3 inches of clearance between the insulated pipe and the rafters, too. That should be enough.
Did you put some kind of cleanout down at the bottom of the pipe? If not, how do you plan on removing the soot and creasote that collects there?
Tom
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45north
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# Posted: 30 Dec 2011 23:15
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The pipe does not have a cleanout but at the Y where the pipe splits off to the stove there is a plate welded in as a baffle. So if the ash and creasote falls back to the bottom of the pipe it will be directed back into the stove to reburn again, it can't collect in the bottom of the pipe.
If this does not work I can open the pipe anytime in the future.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2011 09:11
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Code where it goes through the ceiling above where the stove is mounted requires a support box, this is usually 12" squared, it not only support it, its insulated for heat, then anything above that needs to be the insulated spendy pipe which is about $200 per 4 foot section. This needs to be used the rest of the way up including above the roof. Code says is need to go up till the cap is at least 10 feet away from the roof (so a steep pitch, makes for a tall chimney) or 2 feet above the highest point on your roof, which ever happens first (min settings you can certainly go higher)
Of course, i f its tall above the roof line, you need supports and a sno jack if you gets lots of snow.
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Martian
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2011 13:39
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Toyota, where did you get those requirements? The one's I read said 3' above the roof and 2' above the highest point within 10' of the chimney.
Tom
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2011 15:15 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Picture is worth a thousand words...
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45north
Member
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# Posted: 31 Dec 2011 21:59
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Well the roof peak is 30 ft from the ground and the total pipe length is 33 ft. and the pipe exits the roof about 18 inches down from the peak. It should work fine, I am not concerned about that. Fire safety is my only real concern.
Also I should mention that there have been no inspections and no inspector will stop by and I will not get a notice from the state, I did not have a set of construction plans. The idea for the cabin was all in my head. I am a long way from any burough or county or city government. We also do not have property tax in this part of the state, or state income tax.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2012 17:23
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Quoting: Martian Toyota, where did you get those requirements? The one's I read said 3' above the roof and 2' above the highest point within 10' of the chimney.Tom
Tom, its pretty consistent, but can vary from state to state.
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Martian
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2012 17:53
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Quoting: 45north The pipe continues up threw a hole in the floor surrounded by a metal grate, (picture included) and will end up through the roof. This pipe is 9 inch O.D. and is 5/16 inch thick. I need to weld on the 10 ft piece to the final length 2 ft. past the peak of the roof. The opening in the rafters for the pipe is 20 inches X 20 inches, I would like to put a piece of insulated double walled pipe like metalbestos with a 10 inch I.D. and sleeve the steel pipe with the metalbestos pipe where it passes though the roof rafters. Will this work or should I try something else.
Quoting: 45north It should work fine, I am not concerned about that. Fire safety is my only real concern.
If you build this the way you describe, there should be no problem. If you find the famework where you go thru the floor getting too warm, it would be easy to fab a sheild at that point. I think 18" of clearance is "required" for single wall pipe, and it looks like you have about 15".
As always, YMMV.
Tom
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