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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Ceiling material questions
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Rifraf
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2012 17:10 - Edited by: Rifraf
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Well yet another choice to make and im not sure what to do here.

ill have to cover my ceilings next and as many of you know im converting a shed to livable cabin. The thing that concerns me is ceiling strength. I was thinking of using car siding up there too but its weight adds up pretty quickly, One peice feels ok but pick up 5 or more and you can test your fitness.

So I started looking at lighter woods.. and I thought this one would look good. < home depot link > its 1/4 inch thick version of the car siding. I only wonder if it would bow or sag being nailed and glued to 24" on center beams.
and I dont really have loft space to fur it out any more adding additional ceiling material supports.


Thoughts on this anyone ?

MikeOnBike
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2012 17:51
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I'm going to use 1/4" underlayment for my shed ceiling. It probably won't look as nice as the 'car siding', new term for me, but many of the bunks that come into the local store have beautiful wood grain on the 'good' side. At 38 cents a sqft. it is also much more affordable. Aesthetically though my place is a sleeping shed until I can get my cabin built in about 5 yrs so you might want a higher level of finish.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203183010/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053

My ceiling is 16" OC but I would think that if the material isn't too heavy it shouldn't sag under its own weight at 24" OC
.

VTweekender
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2012 18:32
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just thinking, its possible something like 3/4" T&G 8' boards would actually strengthen the ceiling...assuming you would be nailing across the rafters......no expert here, maybe I shouldn't be thinkin

I noticed under the specs to the product it reads "ceiling use = no"

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2012 19:47
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I've used products like that. They look nice. For wall use I would never use it without having a backer like sheetrock. I'm not sure about ceiling use? If there is no weight on them, probably fine. I do wonder how it would be over a 24" span though... if humidity changes might cause warping issues? I dunno?

ShabinNo5
Member
# Posted: 9 May 2012 20:03
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Rifraf,

I have installed the 1/4" material you are considering and yes, without a backer (plywood or sheetrock) installing using 24" on center will move over time. In my first installation I applied the T&G to a ceiling having 24" on center rafters and 5/8" fire rock. In that installation I prepared the sheetrock using two coats of primer. Then I used construction adhesive and finish nails to apply the T&G board. The result was excellent. This was over 8 years ago and it looks the same as the day I finished.

Then second application was applied by hired help. In this case the hired help decided that the T&G did not need adhesive for the application. In one area the T&T was applied directly to the joists. Within 2 months gaps appeared as the T&G moved between the joists. In the other area there was sheetrock already on the rafters with 16" centers. Again no adhesive was applied and again gaps began to appear. At least with the sheetrock backer the gaps were not as noticable.

Overall in all applications above it still looks better than a popcorn ceiling.

Anyway that is my experiance.

Rifraf
Member
# Posted: 10 May 2012 01:33
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Thanks guys, ill start looking at backer options.. Sheetrock would be the cheapest I guess but plywood may add structural strength right ?

trollbridge
Member
# Posted: 10 May 2012 13:07 - Edited by: trollbridge
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Rifraf,
As you may recall we used the pine economy bead board on our ceilings below our loft. Floor joist were 24 inches apart too so we added strapping. We added ours to the bottom of the joist if I remember right but we could have put it between the joist. Could you do that? The bead board is very lightweight and easy to work with and I believe it is "buy one get one free" at Menards right now. That is the higher quality than we used but a great price. I believe 14.97 pkg. The stuff we used was 8.97 pkg bogo. There's 14sq. ft. per pack.
In our bedroom we cut a corner and didn't use the extra strapping-time will tell if this comes back to bite us in the butt---we do plan on putting up faux beams too so that may help support it some.

Other light weight ideas?? Galvanized sheet tin or old fashion looking tin ceiling tiles-they make these out of plastic now that look good. They come in all sorts of finishes or there are some that you can paint yourself. Also there is a bead board that we looked at that could have gone up with a 24 inch span. It was thinner than car siding but was pretty pricey which is why we didn't go that route.

trollbridge
Member
# Posted: 10 May 2012 13:24 - Edited by: trollbridge
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Rifraf.....I just went back and looked at your ceiling. If I understand you correctly you are nervous about losing ceiling height for the loft right? But if you think about it you would maybe lose about 1 inch all said and done. A furring strip is what about 3/4" thick and then the bead board thickness to that- maybe slightly more than an inch. Even if you were to put up plywood or sheet rock first it would be roughly the same and sheet rock or plywood will cost WAY more and be WAY harder to work with!!!!!!

My 2 cents? Put up strapping and bead board.........you'll never miss that inch of space!!!

Rifraf
Member
# Posted: 10 May 2012 17:02 - Edited by: Rifraf
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Galvanized sheet tin

Now there's an idea, I wonder if they make a faux version of this that's plastic , not the square tiles but the tin roof type

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