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fpw
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# Posted: 21 May 2012 09:49 - Edited by: fpw
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This weekend, I finally got around to putting in the kitchen window at the Stump Ranch.
The header was cut before the log went on the wall. I cut the opening with a chainsaw, flattened and sloped the sill with chainsaw, axe and chisel. Cut the slots for the 2" x 4" keyways and then framed up the window.
Cutting the window sill
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Window in the rough opening
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Window Trimmed on the outside
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Front of the Stump Ranch
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VTweekender
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# Posted: 21 May 2012 17:03
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absolutely beautiful log cabin!! great job!!
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hattie
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# Posted: 21 May 2012 17:30
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Beautiful! Congratulations! It must feel great to have that job done! What's next on the list?
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 21 May 2012 17:58
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fpw
Beautiful log cabin! Time consuming knocking out all that wood with a chisel!
Thank you for the lesson you gave me on log checking and sealing the ends to slow it. I wondered if there ever was a point where checking does compromise to strength-especially if it is used as a beam-any thoughts?
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fpw
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# Posted: 21 May 2012 21:19 - Edited by: fpw
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Trollbridge,
Chisel work was quick, 2 minutes with a chainsaw to make the cuts, knock off the waste wood... another 5 minutes, and then 2 more minutes to brush the sill clean with the chainsaw (however, if this is the first time you brush something smooth with a chainsaw, well, it will take an hour and it will not be smooth).
Everything checks...no problem. Checking will occur at the cut or feature (i.e. mortise that is nearest the heart). Checking is no problem for strength. My logs generally check on the bottom as there is a lateral groove that runs the length of the log. The check will run to the heart and stop.
Next up...a deck for the front and a dovetail log sauna.
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 21 May 2012 21:34
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Good to know it doesn't effect the strength. Thank you!
Have fun with the deck and sauna......you will be staying busy this summer!
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Malamute
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# Posted: 23 May 2012 23:59 - Edited by: Malamute
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Nice cabin.
It works well to knock the chips out with a hammer also. I just whack them sideways and they blast out very fast. A chisel can clean up the few remaining knobs, or the chainsaw. Using the saw at an angle to clean up the kerfs helps(I do both 45 deg directions to get them evened up.), until the high spots are all even, then you can go at a 90 degree angle to the log again. I call my saw my chain plane when doing that, and evening up flats for roofs. I've gone to an electric hand planer for the flats for the roof though.
Do you use a small saw to make your window spline grooves? I bought a little pocket size saw for that. One of the small saws wal-mart sells. Small enough to handle if it tries to kick back or otherwise get frisky when making plunge cuts.
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fpw
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# Posted: 24 May 2012 14:05
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Malamute,
I have quite a few saws that I use for log cabin building (35 cc, 65 cc, and 97 cc). I've gotten very proficent with cutting notches, plunge cuts, grooves, windows, doors, felling trees, and just about everything else. However, I hate cutting the keyways for windows and doors...in my opinion it is the most dangerous operation in log building. It is very easy to get the top quarter of the saw touching something you don't want it to and then...as you mentioned, kick-back, which can be ugly.
I use the 35 cc and 65 cc saw to cut the keyways. I also have chaps, chainsaw boots, a shirt designed for chainsaw protection, and hardhat.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 24 May 2012 23:39
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I agree, it is the most dangerous part of cabin log work. The little poulan saw is small enough that I think I can manhandle it if it gets rambunctious. I try to stay out of the way of it in case it does, and stiff arm it when making the spline cuts. I also wear a hardhat when doing that operation.
I often joke that my chainsaw is my favorite carpentry tool. I don't get to use it very often doing more modern, civilized work projects. My main saw is a Stihl 036. Large enough for decent size logs and firewood where I am, and light enough to handle all day doing log work, and walking along on top of walls, ridges, etc, and cutting gables from a ladder.
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