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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2012 19:53
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Guess I am on a roll now! With so many people who have loads of direct experience I figured I would ask a few more questions. The interior of my cabin is a combination of 8" T&G pine and T-111 (under the loft area for the vertical lines). Ceiling is T&G pine as well. Loft floor is 5/4 southern pine (also is the ceiling below) and main floor to go in soon is quartersawn ash from local Amish finishers. The dilemma on finishing/sealing is two fold as I have gotten many different answers. First should I seal every inch of wall/ceiling element in the cabin - all pine, T-111 etc. and what product? I am leaning towards a low lustre acrylic sealer - like Benwood, and then a similar product for the floors. My plan is to get to it when the wood dries out some this fall. Is it OK to wait a season or two, up to a year, on some of this? Sorry for the many questions, but this is my most current dilemma for scheduling. Thanks.
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 28 Aug 2012 22:34
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I was planning on leaving all of the pine and cedar unfinished. I ended up staining the 2x6 pine flooring for added protection. It got darker and with more constrast. I like the look of the unfinished pine, but it will yellow with age...even if stained. If it is indoors it shouldn't grey. So why couldn't you leave it unfinished?
Our trim is rough cedar...we are not planning on sealing it. We figure if we go down that road we'll open up a can of a lot more work.
Do you like the look of the wood when it is sealed or as it is now?
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 29 Aug 2012 12:09
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Hey welcome! Your place is awesome!
I'm not an expert but I would suggest doing the floor for sure. No matter how careful ya try to be you'll still manage to get 'ground in "something"' in the floor boards...especially if you have kids or a dog. I don't know that the walls or ceiling would need to be sealed. I guess it depends on the look you are going for.
Best of luck!
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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 30 Aug 2012 22:18
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I definitely will do the floors with an acrylic sealer. Its the walls and ceiling that really is in question. Some have said that if I do not do the ceilings they will be susceptible to mold in the summer with no ac and little ventilation when we are not there. Others say do not worry about it. The T-111 and pine walls are light, which we like and I have heard that an acrylic sealer will keep them from yellowing out over time, more so than oil-based products. Bottom line, in response to both replies - we like the light look that exists now and feel that need to do something (how soon I am not sure!) to keep it on the lighter side.
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 31 Aug 2012 08:00
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How often to you visit? You can watch it closely. They make cleaners to clean off mildew...so if it was to start you could clean it quick and apply the seal coat. My understanding is that mold can grow on pretty much anything so you want to reduce the moisture as much as you can anyway...
We left ours exposed. The wood had some mildew from being left in the elements...we just washed it off and have been watching to see if it will return. Because we like the look/lightness of the natural.
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GomerPile
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# Posted: 31 Aug 2012 09:58
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The T&G pine I would just apply a coat of clear stain (minwax) and let it be. I used Minwax Pecan something color and its held up very well. If you use a colored Minwax stain it lightens up considerably over time especially in pine.
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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 2 Sep 2012 18:41
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Thanks for the tips. Due to time constraints we may very well have to watch it until next year sometime. I am going to try some of the acrylic sealer in a couple out of the way places and then test it with dirty hands etc. to see how it holds up, and if it can be cleaned. The info on the mold is helpful as getting the cathedral ceiling done will be a bear of a job, likely including scaffolding. I am also hoping ceiling fans will help by keeping the air moving, if only slightly during the most humid periods - even when we are not there.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 3 Sep 2012 04:23
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I use water based polyurathane on all my pine.you can use one of those pad applicaters.Makes the job go quick.Pine naturally darkens with age so I use clear gloss with no color pigment.
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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 6 Sep 2012 23:06
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So I did some net surfing on floor sealers tonight - focusing on acrylic urethane, and the comments and reviews were all over the place regarding how well they last etc. Do your (rayyy) have some experience with a particular product you can recommend as it seems like a crap shoot as to which one might be best? Also, there seems to be a few comments out there that finishing with a penetrating oil (like tongue) is the best way to achieve protection, while maintaining a low lustre, old-timey finish. I welcome comments, recommendations etc., particularly on products folks have used that have withstood the test of time, even if only for a couple of years.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 8 Sep 2012 07:38
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My cabin is over twenty years old without any finish. And I'm fine with that. I'm more afraid of a finish that peals or flakes off after ten years, than a slight darkening of unfinished wood. As far as mold, unless you do something like a lot of laundry or have a hot tub steaming, I can't see any issues there. Most of our cabins are dryer than our homes.
Owen
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Just
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# Posted: 8 Sep 2012 10:02
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Our cabin is all done in shellac . Floors and walls. That is the original finish after 60 years . I still make all repairs with shellac and turpentine. they are one of the few all natural ways of protecting wood i gess that appeals to us..
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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 8 Sep 2012 20:57
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Thanks for the tips. I am inclined to do no finish for a year or so and see what happens. The moisture is only humidity in the summer as there is no ac. So 3 to 5 months of higher than average humidity with the rest of the year ok and more dry.
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 9 Sep 2012 13:25
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Do you know where the humidity is typically sitting at? Frequently when we arrive at our cabin after it has been closed up for a couple weeks it is at around 70%. I would like for it to be lower than that but not sure how. We have not had a problem with mold growing at that level.
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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 21 Oct 2012 20:46
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Long delay in getting back on the site. Not sure what central PA humidity is, but July and August I suspect can bring in 60 to 80%, until a weather front pushes that away for a couple of those really blue sky days. Also, hoping the ash lower floors are installed this week and that I can get up there to seal it next weekend. Going to use Duraseal acrylic, probably just one coat as I want the floor to get rustic fast. Any one have success using one of those propane cylinder mounted heaters for temporary heating to get the place up to 60 or so degrees to do the sealing?
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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 22 Apr 2013 21:18
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OK - so after a long delay and a winter of occasional cabin visits it is now getting closer to work season at the cabin. Still uncertain about the T-111 on the interior walls. Every time one brushed against it it catches clothing or sticks wood on you. Any experience with painting it with a latex to somewhat seal the flaky parts? Guess it would help to sand it some before painting too. I appreciate any thoughts on what has worked and what brand of paint. We typically use Duron products, but the volume it will likely take makes me want to be a bit more on the practical side.
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 24 Apr 2013 10:41
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Interesting problem with the wood walls. I guess sanding them first would help. Are you for sure going to be painting it? You may want to post this question in its own thread-you will probably get more responses. Wish I had a solution for you.
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FishPCreek
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# Posted: 25 Apr 2013 21:20
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Good suggestion Trollbridge. Will try that as I would like to hear what others have done.
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