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JLP
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2012 18:12
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Hello. I think I might have bought a window that is to large. I found a large window that is 7'8" x 35" for $20, thought it would be perfect in my cabin. I am building 8' walls, as I just now started to think that I might not be able to make this window work for my cabin. Do I have to have a header above it? Its a very nice floor to ceiling window with a rounded top, the view would be awsome. But, worried I won't have enough room for proper bracing without a header. Window is on the non load bearing wall, if that makes a difference. Any, help on this would be great. I am not familiar with framing for such a large window, but I just had to buy it....might end up going in the shed if I can't make it work in the cabin.
Thanks JP
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TomChum
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2012 19:00 - Edited by: TomChum
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If it's on a non-load-bearing wall, it doesn't need a header.
How do you know its a non-load-bearing wall? Can you post a pic of the wall?
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Martian
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2012 21:18 - Edited by: Martian
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If its a non-loadbearing wall, I presume its a gable end. If thats the case, put the header above the top-plate and shorten the cripple studs above it.
Tom
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2012 07:42
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I can see a better topic heading,'' does this window make my cabin look too small ?''.
Owen
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2012 07:55
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Sounds like a nice window. Yes I'd use it on a gable end. Typicaly a window that size wuld have a double 2x10 header if on a eave wall, but on a small cabin the narrow width in itself cuts snow load tremedously. Most builders don't bother to consider that and still think they need the same header size. Half the weight half the header. I still would not recommend less than double 2x6 on a 12' wide cabin on a eave wall. Other factors also figure in, as a steep pitch roof also has less live load on window spans, one because of less snow, but also as the roof sheathing is getting closer to virtical, it actually is starting to aid in horizontal strength.
Owen
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2012 10:27
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When I started reading I thought the window was 7-8 wide and 35 inches tall as the conventional description of sizing a window is to list width first and then the height. Just so you know.
Reading some of the above posts I interpret some of the info as stating that a header is required. IF the wall is an gable end wall there are no vertical loads from roof to floor, other than the weight of the materials that make up the wall. No roof loads transfer down through a gable end wall. As such there is no need for a traditional 2x sandwich header above the window. All that is needed is a flat 2x4 or 2x6, whatever the wall is. And no cripples are required either.
A 2x sandwich header will not hurt, other than cost extra and perhaps complicate things like a very tall window. One reason for including a hear of maybe two 2x4's or maybe even 2x6's is that provides a nice solid piece to later attach window coverings to. With the simple flat 2x sometimes one must then use hollow wall anchors for some of the decorating work.
Another reason full standard headers are sometimes found over all windows is that a builder of tract housing finds fewer errors made by the low cost labor when all windows use the same size large 2x headers.
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Martian
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2012 10:40
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Quoting: MtnDon And no cripples are required either.
Aren't the studs above the top plate extending up to the gable end rafter called 'cripples'? Wouldn't they still be needed above the window for nailing the sheathing and siding to?
Tom
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2012 13:21 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Just another case of nomenclature or perhaps regional differences. As taught today in carpentry schools and as I've been taught cripple studs only occur in walls between upper and lower plates where what would otherwise be a normal, or king, wall stud, is typically interrupted by a window or door. (The studs supporting the ends of the load bearing headers are called jack studs; sometimes they are called trimmers. Jack studs may have to be doubled in some cases; width and upper floor loads affect this. Jack studs can in most cases, be replaced with metal brackets designed for the job/load.)
The studs in a gable roof end wall are simply gable studs.
That way everyone is one the same page and it makes discussions more meaningful. IMO.
Anatomy of a stud wall
In areas of high winds the best gable end walls are framed as a balloon wall if possible; continuous studs from bottom plate to roof line, except where interrupted by windows and doors. That removes the joint where the top plates are located. Another way to make that area stronger is to use 9 or 10 foot long sheets of OSB to overlap the top plate.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 12 Sep 2012 19:56
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MtDon you're right. width is named first so I did think it was some sort of picture window. On a small cabin You probably don't need a header at all for that width. A 12 wide cabin won't have the live load on the eave wall plates that a 24 wide would. You didn't say how tall the wall is. Maybe you could stack some 2x4's to fill the height.
Owen
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 13 Sep 2012 09:49
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I just has a thought. Is this window meant to be a vertical or a horizontal installation. Some windows have drainage holes that indicate the side that is installed down. It's easier to tell if the window has movable panes.
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JLP
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# Posted: 14 Sep 2012 10:43
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Mtndon, I always invert my dimensions...it has caused a lot of frustration in the past, sorry about that. Yes, the window is going in vertical. It is on the gable end, didn't think I needed a header when I bought the window, but since I am new to cabin construction, I thought I would ask. Right now with 8' walls, the window will set right under my top plate. Was hoping when I framed I could just triple up my 2x6s on either side of the window. The window will set on the floor and run all the way to the top plate. So, pretty sure it will work. New to this, so any help is appreciated.
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shnnn
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2012 10:08
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In my area, the building code states that unless a window is made from tempered glass, it has to be higher than 18 inches off the sole plate so that someone won't kick through the window and shatter the glass.
If your window will be flush with the ground you might want to check if that same restriction exists and will be enforced where you are.
I'm having to rip out my window and raise it up as we speak, which is a pain.
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JLP
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# Posted: 19 Sep 2012 10:57
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Luckily I have no codes, very rural area. Already have my back up plan in case the window ever breaks.
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