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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / How to add gutters for rain collection
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optimistic
Member
# Posted: 13 Jun 2013 15:45
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My tiny cabin (144sqft, 12ftx12ft) came without gutters. I am attaching photos of what I have there. I believe the metal roof lip is about 4-5"...

I want to add gutters but not sure what I am supposed to buy. Can some give some links so I know what I need to get to install the gutters?

Also, this will feed into (eventually) a rain collection tank... Not sure if this influence how you recommend what I should buy..

I want to have a wide gutter to add over hang.

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 13 Jun 2013 15:52
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ICC
Member
# Posted: 13 Jun 2013 18:02
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the amount of metal roofing overhang makes it difficult to use the standard gutter hanger brackets. Lowe's does carry a system that will work for that though

Lowes

Then you need to do something to prevent winter snow slide offs from tearing the gutters off. There are metal roofing things called snowbirds or snow guards. a slightly raised off the roof pipe mounted near the eves also keeps the snow on the roof. that's done in europe a lot...in alps for example.

Josh8880
Member
# Posted: 13 Jun 2013 23:00
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I know on a new metal roof install you want the metal to overhang the sheathing by 1-2". It's much easier before its up, but you could cut it with shears, and then put up a standard gutter. Also, it might not be a bad idea to try and retro fit a drip edge under the metal edge of the roof.

optimistic
Member
# Posted: 14 Jun 2013 07:36
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Thanks for the tips and link!

foxdud
Member
# Posted: 2 Aug 2013 11:06
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It is a good idea to have gutters if you have to carry water.
IMG_1117.JPG
IMG_1117.JPG


Truecabin
Member
# Posted: 2 Aug 2013 13:11
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i see your problem it doesnt look like you have much to attach a gutter to

i woudnt cut off the overhang i would add a thicker facia out to an inch of the drip edge. dont cut anything you dont have enough as it is.

you could put some blocking behind the facia that you have then spacer a 2x4 to an inch from the drip edge then hang a gutter on it

or tear off that plywood facia and put a real 2x4 or 2x6 there or add a porch roof on one side of the shed

Owen Kellogg
Member
# Posted: 2 Aug 2013 14:50
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Not much to add, but I just "guttered" my 12 x 24 a couple of weeks ago. I bought everything at HomeDepot, including 1 x 6 pressure-treated gutter boards for about $150 - everthing but the down spout material because I don't have a collection tank yet.

I installed everything by myself in an afternoon. Went much easier than I expected. I'm sure there's a workable solution for your problem. Good luck.

bldginsp
Member
# Posted: 3 Aug 2013 09:45
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I agree that you need to work out a spacing scenario that holds the gutter in the right location to catch water drip, but be out of the way of snow coming off the gutter. I used 2x6 under the eave, and with my particular dimensions, it worked fine.

If you collect the water for storage, it's important to have a good gutter filter to keep as much stuff out as possible. I used 'Gutterglove' brand gutter guard, which is an aluminum extrusion with fine mesh stainless screen on top. Far superior to any flexible gutter screen or filter. Also, being rigid enough to walk on, by the time it's screwed to the gutter it makes the whole thing so rigid it will resist snow and ice pull against it, to a certain extent. But Gutterglove is expensive- 8-10 bucks a lineal foot.

Dekagoldwingers
Member
# Posted: 10 Dec 2013 11:04
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We used a gutter guard that we purchased at lowes. Came in a box of approx 25' vinyl with meek covering, slid under roofing and clipped to outside of gutter. About $45 a box. Our gutter drains down through 1" white potable water vinyl pipe to a homemade filter using 5gal new white vinyl bucket with lid. Pipe comes in side near top, bucket filled with clean small round rocks and fines to 2/3. Fine mesh filter (no see um mesh) on top that's easy to lift out for cleaning. Bought fitting at home hardware that attaches to side of bucket near bottom about 1" off to take the water out. This whole thing sits on holder about 2' off ground. Fitting adapted to 1" pipe with union to allow removal, then runs underground to my 1500 gal water tank. I find that it's pretty easy to take gutters down in the late fall and put back up in spring. Use a connector just below gutter outlet to disconnect pipe. Had to fabricate connection from gutter to pipe using vinyl gutter outlet and pipe adapter, with some mods and food grade silicone.

Dekagoldwingers
Member
# Posted: 10 Dec 2013 11:08
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Here's a photo.of the filter bucket and piping.
image.jpg
image.jpg


squidkid
Member
# Posted: 24 Jan 2014 16:09
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just curious, do you figure it out?

rockies
Member
# Posted: 24 Jan 2014 16:43 - Edited by: rockies
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You don't seem to have any protection on your gable trim boards below the metal roof trim. You might want to unscrew those metal trim pieces, wrap the entire surface of the gable board with peel and stick (and down under the bottom of the board as well) and then use a metal trim piece to protect the board (they are usually sold as fascia trim pieces and are shaped like a "J"). Slip the new trim piece up under the roofing trim piece and then rescrew the roofing trim down as an overlap on the lower metal trim piece. This will help prevent rain running down the unprotected gable board and starting to rot the bottom over time.
Other than that, i think you will have to build out the eaves to within an inch of the metal roof overhang with little "box beams" and replace the soffet in order to cover the new width of the eaves.

silverwaterlady
Member
# Posted: 24 Jan 2014 18:31
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Won't the snow sliding off the roof rip the gutters off?

toofewweekends
Member
# Posted: 24 Jan 2014 19:44
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We avoid the sliding snow problem by taking our shed gutter (summer water collection "system") down in late fall. Not sure what they are called, but I used a nut with a coarsely threaded exterior and a standard threaded interior for a 1/4 inch bolt. You drill a hole and put in the nut (which is more like a cylinder) and it stays in the fascia permanently. Then the gutter brackets go up with the small bolts, pop the gutters in and you're good to go. We have a 10 foot or so wide shed. The whole thing is up or down in about 10 minutes.

silverwaterlady
Member
# Posted: 24 Jan 2014 19:52
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TY for the info.

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 24 Jan 2014 20:08 - Edited by: MtnDon
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There are "snowguards" available for metal roofing. They prevent slide offs of snow. Often they are used when falling snow could be hazardous to people walking below the eve. They also save gutters. We have them on house and cabin.

I could not find the pictures of ours so here's one of a friends. These are formed from the metal that all the roof trim is made from. On our cabin I used an old method; pipes installed with pipe straps near the edge of the roof. I like them also because when saving water from the roof the guards hold and allow the snow to melt for collection.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/hightop/100_4797-1.jpgsnow guards on metal roof

squidkid
Member
# Posted: 27 Jan 2014 11:26
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couldn't you install the gutters as normal and simply drill a number of holes thru the steel over the gutter?
this would allow you to collect water and have the steel protect the gutters from snow and ice.

creeky
Member
# Posted: 27 Jan 2014 14:48
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two thumbs up for that idea.

i mean it'd take some work. or why drill. take a hammer and a nail.

note. i have gutters under a similar but smaller overlap and i've never had any trouble with tear off. they bent a little the first year...

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