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grover
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# Posted: 16 Oct 2013 21:07
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My siding is going to be delivered Friday although I won't get to start until the doors are installed. Just wanted to know if there is anything else to after osb and housewrap? It is cement lap planks similar to hardie boards with a 6 inch reveal. Is there anything other than the starter strip? Possibly some flashing of some sort to keep rain from blowing up underneath? The foundation is concrete block. How far below the top edge of the block should I start the bottom of the first board?
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 16 Oct 2013 21:24
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You need all trim on your corners (I used 5/4 cedar) and around windows etc if you plan on using trim around the windows. Is your windows mounted under the OSB or above it? If its plumb level and square, the last piece should mate perfectly with the first one as you come all the way around. The way you are doing it is much easier than working with large sheets. And I think that siding looks great too.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 16 Oct 2013 21:33
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Ditto on the corner and window trim. Do first. Leave the proper end gaps as recommended by the cement fiber board manufacturer. They usually recommend priming all cuts before installation too. I do that right after I cut a piece.
Around windows it is best to install the bottom trim, then the L & R and then the top so they direct water away and out. Maybe this keyboard drawing will help... (disregard the . the forum software doesn't permit more than one blank spacebar entry in a row....
_______
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Make sense??
Don't overdrive the nails and wear a respirator / mask when cutting if using a saw and not shears.
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Borrego
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# Posted: 16 Oct 2013 21:34
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You'll want to use metal flashing tucked up under the paper at the bottom, 4-6" high... just hold your siding up an inch or less from that....
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grover
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# Posted: 16 Oct 2013 22:00
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This may sound dumb but I was thinking something in the profile of a regular drip edge for a roof with the portion that usually goes over the edge of the roof slipped into the space where my sill seal is. This would keep water off the wood sheathing and keep it from blowing up under my sill plate.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2013 08:51
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Dont' quite see what you mean about your flash detail at the sill, but remember that the basic idea about flashing windows is to achieve a shingling effect from top to bottom. The water must always weep away and toward the outside, and don't depend on caulk where a properly layered flashing will do the job. It's a good idea to place a flashing above the top trim, tucked under the house wrap, to prevent water getting under the top trim.
One means of applying the trim that avoids nails in the face is to use small metal plates screwed to the back side of the trim pieces. These plates overlap the edge of the trim on the outside. Then you screw through the plate to attach to the sheathing. This is used with cementious trim because it splits more easily than wood and it looks better to have no exposed nails.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2013 10:36
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Also when you trim the windows, the trim wil set at an angle from the windows nailing flange. Cut a small kerf with the saw blade. Only where needed. If you trim it our right like Don mentioned, the top will be cut out all except about 3" (if it was T1-11. these would go all thwe way down for water drains) from each end, sides cut almost all the way down except the last 3" and the bottom peice will be cut all the way across. Otherwise, the trim will set slightly at an angle and its really noticable at the trims butt joints.
There is also a butyl tape they use now to seal the windows tight to the wall/wrap. Its wide like 6 or 6", layer it like the tyrim, roll it around the window butt out to shed water, so any water if it made it behind the trim, would not touch wood other than the backside of the trim itself and would shed outward. Layer it also, bottom piece can go over the lower siding board, while top piece goes under trim board. Its self sealing and seals the trims nail holes too. All building supply stores have this, its in the window section.
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grover
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2013 13:56
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Are you talking about trimming part of the back of the window trim where the nailing fin of the window is? So that the trim sits flat against the wall?
I'm picking up some of the tape tonight. There are some good youtube videos out there that explain how to seal a window up.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2013 13:59
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Yes, he meant cutting a rabbet into the back surface of the trim so that the fin is flush with the back, so the trim lies flat. Could be done with a saw or a router, or a table saw.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2013 21:13
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Quoting: grover Are you talking about trimming part of the back of the window trim where the nailing fin of the window is? So that the trim sits flat against the wall? I'm picking up some of the tape tonight. There are some good youtube videos out there that explain how to seal a window up.
Yes, a table saws blade is about perfect, so no need to buy a dado blade etc. 
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grover
Member
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2013 11:35
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All the windows are in now except the one in the loft. The sheathing has not been finished up there. It's pretty high up so I'm looking at buying or renting some scaffolding to do that part of the end walls. Scaffolding would also help inside with the cathedral ceiling work.
The next trip will be installing the front door and the side door. The sliding glass door is on order and should be here in 2 or 3 weeks.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2013 13:05
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Grover, take a peek at youtube, they have great videos on sealing windows to the housewrap/Tyvek
Here is one I found. There is several methods, this is one of them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaKXqFtHAss
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grover
Member
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2013 18:42
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Yes, I flashed the bottom sill and about 3-4 inches up the side, caulked the sides and top, put the window in and flashed the sides then top. I didn't have the flex wrap though. That stuff looks really nice.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 20 Oct 2013 23:51
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I wonder about that Flexwrap. Looks great, great idea, but what will it look like in 2 years? Anything stretched out that much is likely to crack and peel as it dries out. So it seems to me.
Pre-made corner wraps are available for the shower pan setups offered by several manufacturers. I wonder if those could be incorporated into the sill flashing, shingle style.
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 21 Oct 2013 09:04
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I use composite shims to get the trim flush rather than cutting a rabbet into the back side. They are only needed at the nailing points, and make perfection attainable.
Tom
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 21 Oct 2013 18:07
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Quoting: bldginsp Pre-made corner wraps are available for the shower pan setups offered by several manufacturers. I wonder if those could be incorporated into the sill flashing, shingle style.
Grace makes corners for flashing along with their Vycor self adhesive flashing.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 21 Oct 2013 18:59
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Thanks MtDon. Think that's what I'll use. Sounds like the best solution to an inherent problem
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