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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Floor protection for a wood stove
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ATB
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 09:33
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I think I have what wood stove I am going to get. It says I need a 3/8 milboard or equivalent rated material betwix combustable materials like my sub floor.
In googling the internet machine milboard is about as easy to get as fairy wings, bigfoot hair, fiscally responsible government or a unicorn horn. Why the hell would they use that in the manual?

Anyhow from some other sources it seem 3/8 milboard is about 0.78 R factor.
I was looking at the pre done hearth mats but they are more expensive than the stove!

Has anyone made their own hearth pad with 2x4s, 1/2 inch sub floor stuff, sheet of 24 gauge sheet metal, 2 layers of 1/2 new era durock then tile or brick?

My adding up the stuff equals better than the 0.78 but concerned because my searching of people doing this seems to get mixed opinions of safety. Most only had 1 layer of cement board.

Does this seem a prudent idea?
And would attaching all the stuff below the tile with deck screws be ok (conduction of heat wise)?
Thanks for all the help

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 10:07
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Does the stove have a bottom heat shield? If it does it should only require that there be a non combustible surface directly under the stove to prevent ember droppings from burning the floor maybe starting a fire. At least every stove that I have owned in my life (all 3 ) have had a bottom heat shield and only needed tile or whatever under and around on the floor.

Care to post a link to the stove? or the manual?

ATB
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 10:16
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http://www.monessenhearth.com/family/Stoves/Non-Catalytic/Windsor/
Thank Mtn Don it is the WR244 and yes I believe it has a bottom heat shield. This is where I saw the 3/8 mil board and thought great I will grab some at the Home Depot...nope not so fast!
http://literature.mhsc.com/majestic/manuals/30005124_WR244_3.pdf

Page 4

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 10:33
Reply 


The manual also says, "A grouted ceramic floor-tile surface installed per local building code considered equivalent"

It seems to me then that cement fiber board meant for tile underlayment would then be ideal. That's what is required here for fireplaces and wood stoves with bottom heat shields. There are special screws for that board that have serrations under the head that grind.cut to make it possible for the screw head to be at or slightly below the cement fiber board surface. We did that and used a copper sheet as the protective surface just because we liked the look. The rest of the floor is grouted tile all over.

ATB
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 11:33
Reply 


Here is what I was talking about making for elevation and a safe buffer zone reminder for the kids.
http://www.woodstove.com/pages/guidepdfs/Plan%20your%20hearth.pdf
page 4 again

MtnDon
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 13:32
Reply 


That will work. Makes feeding the stove easier too.

ATB
Member
# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 14:06
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Cool thanks a ton Mtn Don

bigtuna
Member
# Posted: 11 Feb 2014 10:33
Reply 


Very easy. new guy here as.already mentioned hardy backer cement board. i put in a stove in my little farm house. i cut out the drywall off the walls replaced with 1/2" hardy backer then versabond then porcelain tile then grout. ill try to post a pic. oh [img=null][/img]nhardwood floors built a frame on the floor2x4 plywood top 3/4" thinset versabond on top of plywood.hardy backer goes on top of versa then more versabond on top of hardy then porcelain tile and grout. goin on 4 yrs havent turned on the furnace. good luck.
20130620_20.55.17..jpg
20130620_20.55.17..jpg


toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 11 Feb 2014 11:50
Reply 


I just purchased a ready made hearth, corner model. Got a scratch/dent for $150 total. Killer deal. Keep in mind, you need so many inches in front of the door opening too, I think its 16 or 18" too.

Truecabin
Member
# Posted: 11 Feb 2014 13:10
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ATB
that link is good info i saved the pdf on my laptop
also it has clearances for heat shields
good stuff thanks

old243
Member
# Posted: 11 Feb 2014 16:01
Reply 


When we had to replace our insulated chimney, several years ago,and our wood stove. We had to have it inspected, after installation by a certified installer.So had his company do the complete job. Our existing tile hearth did not extend far enough , beyond the front of the stove , to satisfy new insurance regulations. Had to add another row of ceramic tile. Lots of fun to find more that matched. I then had my insurance company inspect it and give me a clearance.. We are in Ontario, the insurance companies are getting fussy about wood heat.
old243

Atlincabin
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2014 00:28
Reply 


Another option to consider is a rock slab. If you have a tile/rock counter dealer nearby, they often have leftover (boneyard) pieces for cheap. Typically might cost you $100-300 for a piece that is large enough. Might cost another $100 or so to get it cut to the right size for your application. Very much fireproof! I've done this for a couple houses and cabins I've built.

turkeyhunter
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2014 10:27
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I just had a brick mason ( $300 labor) build a hearth and brick up 2 walls in corner to the ceiling...I used 5 bags of Portland type S mortar / sand & about 450 vintage wood mold bricks...I put my Papa Bear Fisher stove in it. Works great and looks GREAT!!!

RoseSheen
Member
# Posted: 14 Feb 2014 07:23 - Edited by: RoseSheen
Reply 


Did anyone really give a thought to floor rugs? Can they seem to help in this case? I think homebase rugs such as jute rugs if modified according to need can do the job. Such as making it fire resistant and using it. Brick mason also works very well. My aunt uses the same trick and it works for her. Still, searching for alternative options will for sure further optimize it.

rmak
Member
# Posted: 15 Feb 2014 10:07
Reply 


Like others, I just made a hearth with inexpensive 6" X 6" ceramic tiles. I bought them on close-out. I bought a 5 ft X 3 ft concrete underlayment sheet and some tile cement/grout combination stuff and some spacers. Tiles glued to board spaced correctly. Then I packed in the same stuff as grout with a putty knife and wipe clean. It's really a lot easier than I thought. I also needed a grooved trowel and a sponge designed to clean the tiles after grouting. Compared to a $200-$400 premade hearth I think I did pretty well for under $75.00.

I'm going to raise the hearth so this ceramic part will go on 3/4" plywood and into a frame of 2X10. All set for my new Jotul 620!

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