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Sambo
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 09:37 - Edited by: Sambo
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In order to raise/move it better?
The cabin I'm working on needs new roof, siding, maybe flooring, and probably a few structural reparations (I.e. 2ft of sill plate, 2 trusses need replacing).
I'm curious if stripping it down to the shell before raising it and working on it is a viable option? And if so what would be a good sealant/encapsulating substance to use to both treat the old wood (which has had some mold and pest intrusion) and to protect it for the 4-8 weeks of it being exposed to the elements?
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Wilbour
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 13:48
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I am planning on stripping my cabin this summer. All the sheathing was just plywood slapped up many moons ago by previous owner. Not planning on moving it though, just repairing.
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Sambo
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 14:48 - Edited by: Sambo
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Nevermind. I'm going to pull the floor boards out and figure things out. Thanks for reading.
Yea, I have to raise slightly and level, and make sure the foundation is sound. Otherwise we're in the same boat re: gutting the place
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 15:41
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Leveling is a great idea, but can have the problem of causing the roofing to tweak and break open, interior finish material to crack, doors to misalign, etc. because you are racking the walls. It settled in to where it has been, and over the years the old roofing, doors, finish inside 'adjusted' to the settling, or any new roofing etc. was applied to it in the settled condition, but now you are going to rack the walls and disturb the status quo. So you might break that stuff, but if you are going to tear it out later anyway maybe it doesn't matter. As you are leveling, I'd keep a close eye on the effect on doors and windows. It might bring them back into square, or throw them seriously out.
Send pics!
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Sambo
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 19:26
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I'll send pics for sure, I already have in another post.
It's just that the joists on the lengthwise north side of the cabin are almost in the soil, and the lengthwise south side is a foot off the ground. It's relatively level on a slightly sloped ground, but it could use a slight lift.
So with access under the building being a potential task I'm now thinking to pull the floor out. Both to remove the flooring and insulation, but to also prepare for being able to get underneath the cabin for raising.
I dunno. I'm trying to be as diy as I can. I don't want to hire a consultant or a carpenter. I don't think I can easily raise this from the outside only
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Sambo
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 19:29
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Terrible picture for now is all I have
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 20:11
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Maybe pulling the floor is the right thing for you to do, but here's a suggestion that might avoid that. Usually when they floor jack, they place a beam under the joists and perpendicular to them to support them all, then jack the beam. Even if you pull the floor you'll have to do this, since it does not make sense to jack individual joists. Point is you can dig just enough to get the beam in, then get under the beam in two locations only, and start jacking. Maybe you will have to pull the floor to get the beam in though, if the joists are close to the dirt. Wise of you to lift it up, I only hope the joists are not rotted.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 20:21
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That's a pretty good picture for getting a sense of what you are doing. I guess the joists run lengthwise down the building, from what you said. I bet they are not continuous, probably lapped in the center which means you will need three beams. Otherwise you could possibly lift it just from the ends, which have easy access to place the beams.
Looks like you got some nice straight trees there, so getting the beams will be no problem.
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Sambo
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 22:17
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The joists run width wise. It's hard to tell if they are lapped or meet at the center. The joist furthest back seems to be one piece. The joist closest facing the picture looks like it might be two pieces. Seems a little odd.
So you think I should try to get two beams the full length of the cabin under there? Or just get under three joists? There could be some boulders in the way. I'm not sure yet.
I suppose even if I were replacing the floor, that keeping it in place while raising retains some stiffness or integrity?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 5 May 2014 23:10
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Quoting: Sambo I suppose even if I were replacing the floor, that keeping it in place while raising retains some stiffness or integrity?
The floor diaphragm gives rigidity to the entire structure; keeps the base square or as square as it is. Not sure what to expect with removing and jacking as I have never had the need. I've seen buildings lifted and moved and always have been impressed with the number of timbers involved in making a solid base to lift from.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 6 May 2014 08:10
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Do have plenty of cribbing available to stack like this, #, under probably 6 places, 3 up each side, wide, level, and stable. I collect alot of 4' 4x4's and 6x6's for doing this. 2x4's for shimming on the cribs as I lift. I saw low grade wood into timbers for this use, check with local sawmills. Don't use concrete blocks, I've had them crumble and collapse under the shifting weight. Crib constantly and lift in small increments and as uniformly as possible. Never have more than 1 or 2 inches of potential fall to the cribbing in case things shift and it spits out a jack. Jack to broad heavy steel not to wood, you can drive a jack right through lumber and you can also drive a jack underground if not on a good stable base. Go slow and be safe, keep yourself out of any potential crush zone, gravity is one of those laws we cannot break.
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Sambo
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# Posted: 6 May 2014 09:21
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Thanks for the words of caution.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 6 May 2014 14:24
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To answer your question, if it hasn't been already, yes, you really need a solid beam across the entire width of what you are jacking. If you only jack three joists at a time you will break the floor.
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Sambo
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# Posted: 6 May 2014 14:41 - Edited by: Sambo
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Ok so does that mean you need to be able to have beams in position and ground excavated enough to fit and support jacks?
Some people I'm talking to suggest you can lift it some and then get beams underneath. But I never am able to get a complete picture of the process because I feel like I'm taking up way too much of people's time.
And then there's the middle of the cabin. Some sort of beam already spans under the joists in the middle, lengthwise. How to I get that out and put a new one in?
I'll have to grab some more pictures shortly. Thanks
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 6 May 2014 17:45
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I'm not an expert and I've never done this, but what I have always understood is that you need to instal a solid beam at the ends of each set of floor joists, dig below the beam if necessary for the jack and then start jacking. You don't want to disturb the alignment of the joists to each other, which is why the whole set of joists must sit on one beam on each end of the joists.
Not sure how you would jack it only a little without a beam, then slide a beam in after. Any jacking without a beam runs the risk of shifting the alignment of the joists to each other.
The beam in the middle you mention is a girder holding up the floor joists in the middle. If it is in good shape you could probably use it as your center beam, and just start jacking it. You would have to disconnect it from whatever piers it is attached to. This helps you since that's the hardest beam to set on place. Putting a beam at each end is easier since you have access without stooping too much. Make sure you locate the beams out of the way of where you will construct the new footings and supports so you don't have to move the beams during construction of the new foundation, whatever it is. Make sure the beam supports also are out of the way of new construction.
Get ready for backache, ANY underfloor foundation work under an existing floor is brutal on-your-knees labor.
All of DonP's advice on use of cribs, jacks and steel sounds like excellent practical experience from someone who's been there. All house movers have truckloads of big chunks of wood they use to support things during the process.
With a small building like this, you will spend a lot of time and worry on getting set to do it, but once you are there with the right materials it will go fast. The actual lift will take far less time than all else involved. It's the planning, prep and materials acquisition that will be the challenge, along with building the new footings underneath.
Too rich for my old blood but I bet you will transform that ratty looking old thing into a cabin to be proud of. Keep us posted.
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Sambo
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# Posted: 6 May 2014 22:06
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Thanks I'll keep posting. I have to spend a lot more time looking at the ground around it. There are boulders everywhere.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 6 May 2014 23:10
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I missed all the excitement last year by being away from home base for a couple weeks.  A 1500 sq ft one story home built on a slab was moved a distance of about three miles near us. I saw some of the prep work and then when we came back to town there it was sitting in its new spot a mile away from us.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 00:24
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If boulders are in the way such that you can't get beams or jacks under, this becomes quite a challenge. Before I let my imagination run wild, see if you can remove some of what is covering the foundation and get good pics underneath. If its sitting on rock, you may have to devise a means of locating the jacks above the floor, lifting with chains. But there I go with my wild imagination
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